Aiguille de la Brenva
Aiguille de la Brenva | |
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View of east face. The 60 metre tall Père Eternel is visible on the right flank, above the Brèche de la Brenva. | |
Highest point | |
Elevation | 3,269 m (10,725 ft)[1] |
Coordinates | 45°50′16″N 6°55′03″E / 45.837870°N 6.917504°ECoordinates: 45°50′16″N 6°55′03″E / 45.837870°N 6.917504°E |
Geography | |
![]() ![]() Aiguille de la Brenva Alps | |
Parent range | Mont Blanc massif |
Climbing | |
Access | From Torino Hut |
The Aiguille de la Brenva (3,269 metres (10,725 ft)) is a remote rocky mountain peak in the Mont Blanc massif of the Alps. It lies wholly within Italy on a ridge descending south-east from the Tour Ronde. It has been described as "a spectacular fin with a fine E face".[2] It stands on a ridge separating the from the Brenva glacier, yet is somewhat overshadowed by its larger neighbours, such as the Aiguille Blanche and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. Nevertheless, it is a distinctive peak, offering a number of very challenging climbs, especially on its east face which consists of vertical granite flakes and cracks. On its northern side stands a distinctive, slender rock pinnacle about 60 metres high, known as the Père Eternel.[3]
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![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f0/Mont_Blanc_massif_%28west%29.jpg/220px-Mont_Blanc_massif_%28west%29.jpg)
Climbing[]
The Aiguille de la Brenva was first ascended on 25 August 1898 by A. Hess, L. Croux and C. Ollier via its south-east ridge. This remains the least difficult means of ascent to this day. (Graded PD on the French adjectival climbing scale).[4][2]
Nowadays, its east face offers a number of challenging climbing routes: the Donvito Diedre, the Bocallette route (UIAA Grade V/V+) (first established in 1935); the very hard Bertone-Zappelli route, plus the 390m Rebuffat route (Grade V/V+), dating from 1948.[4] The latter route is placed in 66th position by its first ascensionist, Gaston Rebuffat, in his classic mountaineering book "The Mont Blanc Massif - the 100 finest routes".[3]
The peak's north ridge provides an exposed and strenuous 150m climb, which is rarely undertaken (Grade V/V+).[4]
The 60-metre-high (200 ft) Père Eternel pinnacle 3,224 metres (10,577 ft) was first climbed in August 1927 by L. Grivel, O. Ortiz and A Pennard. (UIAA Grade V/V+).[4]
Access[]
The peak can be accessed from the Torino Hut via the Toule glacier to reach the Brèche de la Brenva.[2] It can also be climbed as a "training exercise" in one day, reached direct from Courmayeur by means of a "stiff walk".[4]: 208
See also[]
- Portal:Alps
References[]
- ^ "3630 ouest" (Map). chamonix - mont-blanc (2nd ed.). 1:25,000. Carte Topographique (in French). Paris: Institut Géographique National. 1984.
- ^ Jump up to: a b c Griffin, Lindsay (1990). Mont Blanc Massif Volume 1. London: Alpine Club. pp. 134–135. ISBN 0900523573.
- ^ Jump up to: a b Rebuffat, Gaston (1991). The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes (1974 English ed.). Diadem Books. pp. 166–167. ISBN 0906371392.
- ^ Jump up to: a b c d e Collomb, Robin; O'Connor, W.H. (1976). Mont Blanc range. Vol. 1: Trelatete, Mont Blanc, Maudit, Tacul, Brenva;. London: Alpine Club. ISBN 0900523204. OCLC 25691643.
External links[]
- Mountains of the Alps
- Mont Blanc massif