Bolt (cloth)

Bolts of fabric.

A bolt is a piece of cloth woven on a loom or created by a knitting machine,^[1]^[2]^[3]^[4]^[5]^[6]^[7] as it is processed, stored and/or marketed. Consequently, its dimensions are highly variable – flexible and dependent upon the manufacturing, machinery, quantity, size, thickness and quality of the product.^[8] It is a unit used in manufacturing, transport and inventory.^[9] It is also used as a descriptor for wallpaper, which uses different fabrication machinery.^[A] Being encompassing, it is by its nature a generic and ambiguous term of convenience and context, used to describe fabric and wallpaper.^[10]^[11]

In modern production[]

Textile manufacturing is about converting fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, and finally, the fabric into clothing and other useful products. At every stage, production activity is managed by unique batches. When it comes to fabric, a set of bolts or rolls forms a batch,^[12] representing the production.^[13]

Manufacturing[]

The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns the yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. and knitting is another method of cloth manufacturing.

Bolts^[B]are the rolls of cloth manufactured by a loom or knitting machine, which moves through subsequent processes of textile finishing.

Loom[]

Looms are equipped with devices that can measure the length of the bolt during manufacturing on the machine itself.^[17]

Packing and Trading[]

Cloth merchant were marking the end of bolts with notations.^[18] This practice is continued in the industry to avoid mixing.

Garment manufacturing[]

After fabric inspection, the bolts are layered manually or fabric spreading machines for relaxing and cutting with patterns.^[19]^[20]

For more information, see Pattern; Ready-made garment

Unit[]

The length of a bolt varied according to the type of material measured.^[21]^[8] The length is usually either 40 or 100 yards (37 or 91 m), but varies depending on the fabric being referred to; for example, a bolt of canvas is traditionally 39 yards (36 m). The width of a bolt is usually 45 or 60 inches (110 or 150 cm),^[22] but widths may include 35–36 inches (890–910 mm), 39 inches (990 mm), 41 inches (1,000 mm), 44–45 inches (1,100–1,100 mm), 50 inches (1,300 mm), 52–54 inches (1,300–1,400 mm), 58–60 inches (1,500–1,500 mm) and 66 inches (1,700 mm), 72 inches (1,800 mm), 96 inches (2,400 mm), and 108 inches (2,700 mm).

The word has been long lived. For example, Herman Melville, “All Astir”, in Moby-Dick; or, The Whale, 1st American edition wrote: "Not only were the old sails being mended, but new sails were coming on board, and bolts of canvas, and coils of rigging; in short, everything betokened that the ship's preparations were hurrying to a close."^[23] It is also the standard linear measurement of canvas for use at sea: 39 yards (36 m).^[24]

References[]

Notes[]

^ Wallpaper is not necessarily fabric. It uses different fabrication machinery.^[10] Wallpaper is packaged in single, double or triple bolts or rolls. Lengths and widths vary depending on the manufacturer and product. There are two competing systems: American and Euro (Metric). The former contains about 25% more than the latter. Each bolt contains a label that indicates the dye lot, pattern number or run number.^[10]
^ Encarta opines that in textiles, it means "a rolled length of woven goods or wallpaper."^[14] Bolt has been defined as “A bolt of cloth is a long wide piece of it that is wound into a roll round a piece of cardboard.”^[15] Bolt “in the sense of bale” is a noun. E.g., “bolts of black silk” with synonyms that include: amount, bale, packet, quantity, reel, and roll.^[16] The foregoing list only scratches the surface of synonyms for Bolt as it relates to fabrics.^[9]

Citations[]

^ Tortora, Johnson & Merkel 2013, p. 206.
^ Stern 1937, p. 20.
^ Ray 2012, p. 81.
^ Wong 2017, p. 3.
^ Ahmad, Afzel & Ahmad 2017, p. 214.
^ Sarkar, p. 160.
^ Diagram Group 2008, p. 361.
^ Jump up to: ^a ^b "How Many Yards On a Bolt of Fabric? (Fabric Bolt Dimensions)". sewingiscool.com. Retrieved December 23, 2020. Typically, a bolt of fabric contains anywhere between 30 and 100 yards of fabric. However, a lot also depends on the type [and thickness] of fabric in question. For example, a bolt of the canvas is generally 39 yards. Widths may include: 35–36 inches (890–910 mm) [up to] ... 108 inches (2,700 mm)
^ Jump up to: ^a ^b Bolt. University of Glasgow’s Historical Thesaurus of English (2nd ed.). University of Glasgow. 22 October 2009. ISBN 978-0199208999. OCLC 18409912.
^ Jump up to: ^a ^b ^c Nielson 2007, p. 174.
^ Bolt Merriam Webster Dictionary.
^ Rutnagur, Sorabji M. (2005). The Indian Textile Journal. Business Press. p. 96.
^ batch production is used in the textiles and clothing industry for producing fixed quantities of identical products, either for stock or order. For example, a designer-maker might make a batch. Textiles Technology Lesley Cresswell · 2004 [1]
^ Encarta World English Dictionary. New York, New York USA: St. Martin's Press. 1999. p. 197.
^ Bolt. Collins Dictionary – Complete & Unabridged (11th ed.).
^ Bolt. .
^ Gubin, V. V.; Makarov, A. A. (2012-05-01). "Device for measuring the length of a bolt of cloth woven on a loom". Fibre Chemistry. 44 (1): 59–60. doi:10.1007/s10692-012-9398-4. ISSN 1573-8493. S2CID 135637049.
^ Zhao, Gang (1977). The Development of Cotton Textile Production in China. East Asian Research Center, Harvard University. p. 62. ISBN 978-0-674-20021-0.
^ Large bolts of fabric are loaded on a moveable frame called a spreader . ... can create problems during spreading and must be left to relax overnight to assure accurate pattern size after cutting . Manufacturing Technology John R. Lindbeck, Molly W. Williams, Robert M. Wygant · 1990 Page 219
^ Albrecht, Wilhelm; Fuchs, Hilmar; Kittelmann, Walter (2006-03-06). Nonwoven Fabrics: Raw Materials, Manufacture, Applications, Characteristics, Testing Processes. John Wiley & Sons. p. 471. ISBN 978-3-527-60531-6.
^ Rowlett & University of North Carolina 2001, p. [2].
^ "How Wide Is a Bolt of Fabric?". Reference.com. Archived from the original on 2013-11-23. Retrieved 2013-06-09.
^ "Herman Melville, “All Astir”, in Moby-Dick; or, The Whale, 1st American edition, New York, N.Y.: Harper & Brothers; London: (Richard Bentley, OCLC 57395299, page 106.
^ 24 March 1774 , Stamford Mercury - "Mr. Cole, Basket-maker...has lost near 300 boults of rods" https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000254/17740324/001/0001 (subscription required)

Bibliography[]

Ahmad, Sheraz; Rasheed, Abher; Afzal, Ali; Ahmad, Faheem (2017-08-01). Advanced Textile Testing Techniques. Boca Raton, Florida USA: CRC Press. p. 214. ISBN 978-1-4987-8471-9.
Christie, R. M. (2007-05-11). Environmental Aspects of Textile Dyeing. Cambridge Boca Raton, Florida USA: Elsevier. p. 83. ISBN 978-1-84569-309-1.
Diagram Group, ed. (October 17, 2008). The Dictionary of Unfamiliar Words: Over 10,000 Common and Confusing Words Explained (Paperback). Skyhorse. p. 361. ISBN 978-1602393394. A measure of length, usually for fabric. A bolt of wallpaper equals 16 yd and a bolt of fabric equals 40 yd.
Harder, Frances (2004). Fashion for Profit: A Professional's Complete Guide to Designing, Manufacturing, & Marketing a Successful Line. Frances Harder. p. 110. ISBN 978-0-9727763-1-8.
Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille (March 31, 2014). Technical Sourcebook for Designers. A&C Black. p. 135. ISBN 978-1-60901-856-6.
Nielson, Karla J. (July 10, 2007). Interior Textiles: Fabrics, Application, and Historic Style. Hoboken, New Jersey, USA: John Wiley & Sons. p. 174. ISBN 978-0471606406.
Purushothama, B. (2016-09-05). Handbook on Fabric Manufacturing: Grey Fabrics: Preparation, Weaving to Marketing. Havertown: Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 274. ISBN 978-93-85059-71-1.
Ray, Sadhan C. (2012-03-14). Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. New Delhi, India: CRC Press. p. 81. ISBN 978-93-80308-65-4.
; University of North Carolina (May 31, 2001). "How Many? A Dictionary of Units of Measurement". University of North Carolina. Archived from the original on 20 December 2016. Retrieved December 20, 2016. a commercial unit of length or area used to measure finished cloth. Generally speaking, one bolt represents a strip of cloth 100 yards (91.44 meters) long, but the width varies according to the fabric. Cotton bolts are traditionally 42 inches (1.067 meters) wide and wool bolts are usually 60 inches (1.524 meters) wide. Thus a bolt of cotton is 116.667 square yards (97.566 m2) and a bolt of wool is 166.667 square yards (139.355 m2).
Sarkar, Prasanta. Garment Manufacturing: Processes,Practices and Technology. . p. 160. ISBN 978-93-83701-75-9.
Stern, Boris (1937). Mechanical Changes in the Cotton-textile Industry, 1910 to 1936. Works Progress Administration.
Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid; Merkel, Robert S. (September 17, 2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles (8th ed.). New York, NY, USA: A&C Black; Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. p. 206. ISBN 978-1-60901-535-0.
Viļumsone-Nemes (2012). Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. Textiles (Imprint ed.). Woodhead Publishing Limited. ISBN 978-0-85709-134-5.
Wong, Calvin (2017-10-20). Applications of Computer Vision in Fashion and Textiles. Kent: Woodhead Publishing. p. 3. ISBN 978-0-08-101218-5.