Brette Harrington

Brette Harrington (born 1992) is an American professional rock climber and alpinist based in Lake Tahoe, California and British Columbia, Canada. She is best known for the first free solo of 760 meters (2,500-foot) Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia, for her development of new alpine climbing routes and as the star of Brette, a Reel Rock Film Tour short film.

Early life[]

Harrington, the daughter of two skiers, grew up in Lake Tahoe. At two years old, she began learning to ski, and competed at slalom skiing from the age of five. As a teenager, she attended the Holderness School, a boarding school adjacent to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. While training in slopestyle skiing in high school, Harrington grew curious about rock climbing and joined the school's club.

Harrington's rock climbing activities were centered around moderate outdoor climbing routes at New Hampshire locales like Rumney, Cathedral Ledges and White Horse. The club did not compete in climbing competitions. Harrington notes that club members found climbing "intrinsically special," engaging in its challenge for personal reasons.

Harrington moved to Vancouver, Canada to attend the University of British Columbia. Initially she continued slopestyle skiing, however serious injuries, including a broken neck at the age of 20, sidelined her. As a result, Harrington began to focus more on backcountry ski touring and climbing around Squamish, British Columbia.^[1]

Climbing achievements[]

According to , as of 2016, Harrington was "one of the world’s leading crack and alpine climbers." In 2017, she was named one of the top women in sports to watch by Forbes Magazine.^[2] She has been noted for her ability to maintain physical and emotional control^[3][4] while undertaking challenging routes, and has gained fans for being a "bright firecracker who carries her joy on her face"^[5] and someone whose climbing soul "burns bright."^[6]

Harrington gained recognition when, in February 2015, she free-soloed Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) on Aguja Saint Exupery, Patagonia.^[7] Although the route had been climbed before, by Alex Huber in 2011, she was the first climber, male or female, to do so without the aid of any equipment or protection. The climb was ranked as one of the ten most legendary free solos to date. Fellow free soloist, Austin Howell wrote of the climb, "This is hands down one of the coolest free solos ever, and is notable because it's one of the few free solos that have been done on big mountains in Patagonia."^[8] Harrington is an accomplished trad climber, with completed routes including Grand Illusion (5.13c) on Sugarloaf in Lake Tahoe, and The Free Muir (5.13c) on El Capitan in Yosemite, California.^[9] She is known for her multi-pitch technique^[10] and ability to develop new lines.^[11][12]

Harrington was the subject of a Reel Rock Film Tour short film, Brette in 2016. Film-maker Nick Rosen of Reel Rock noted that he found the subject compelling as a story of a huge talent just emerging, "What's special here is that we captured the first year of full-time climbing of a woman who is probably going to be a legend. She's on the trajectory of being the Steph Davis of her generation."^[13]

Two of Harrington's 2018 routes were included as significant ascents that year by representatives for the Piolets d'Or prize, indicating possible contention for the prestigious award. These were Devil's Paw, completed with Gabe Hayden, in Alaska, and Mount Blane, in the Canadian Rockies, completed with Rose Pearson.^[14]

Notable first ascents[]

Starting around 2013, Harrington and partner Marc-André Leclerc began exploring and putting up first ascents in the mountains of western Canada. “Climbing around our home [in British Columbia], a lot of things haven’t been done yet,” Harrington noted. Previously, Harrington had more of a sport climbing background and began building skills in alpine style, especially dealing with ice, mixed conditions and the cold.^[15] In 2014, she and Leclerc made the first ascent of Straight No Chaser, a 1500m route (5.11/A1) in the Waddington Range of Canada. In 2016, Harrington, Leclerc and Ryan Johnson made the first ascent of the Northwest Turret (5.13a, A2) on Great Sail Peak of Baffin Island, Canada.^[16]

In 2017, Harrington made a failed attempt at Riders on the Storm, on Torre Central del Paine, Patagonia. She and climbing partner Mayan Smith-Gobat were able to work on some of the critical crux pitches, but were turned back from the summit by bad weather. "We were forced to use every technique we knew to get through the ice-covered and often run out climbing. Our goal then changed to just making it through the first half of “Riders on the Storm” in any style possible."^[17]

With fellow mountaineer Rose Pearson, Harrington established a new long alpine route, dubbed Life Compass, up the west face of Mount Blane in Canada's Rocky Mountains in May of 2018.^[18][19] The new route was hailed as "one of the few climbs of this size and grade ever established in the Canadian Rockies by an all-women team."^[20]

In early April, 2019, Harrington, Ines Papert and made the first ascent of a new route, The Sound of Silence on the East Face of Mt. Fay in the Rockies of Alberta, Canada. The 1100m route was completed in fast and light style with one night spent 75m (250 ft) below the summit.^[21]

Personal life[]

Harrington's long-time partner, fellow alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, was confirmed dead after going missing during a climbing expedition near Juneau, Alaska in March, 2018.^[22] Harrington dedicated her newly established Mount Blane route to Leclerc, writing: "We have named it Life Compass for a number of reasons. Primarily because my life has taken such a sudden 180 degree turn since the loss of Marc in March and alpine climbing has been my guide. I dedicate this climb to my climbing mentor, partner and love Marc-Andre who would probably solo it the following day ;) if he was here."^[18] Harrington's 2019 first ascent of The Sound of Silence, completed with Luka Lindic, a former climbing partner of Leclerc and Ines Papert, was named in memory of Leclerc, who had previously been working on the route.^[21]

Brette Harrington is not related to climber Emily Harrington.^[23] She is a graduate of the University of British Columbia.^[24]

Selected notable climbs[]

2014, Straight No Chaser (5.11/A1), Waddington Range, Canada—First ascent with Marc-André Leclerc.

2015, Chiaro de Luna (5.11a), Saint Exupery, Patagonia—first free solo.

2015, Grand Illusion (5.13b/c), Sugarloaf, California—Second female ascent.^[25]

2015, Muir Wall (5.13c), Yosemite, California.^[4]

2016, Coconut Connection (5.12), Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island, Nunavut, Canada—First free ascent.^[26]

2016, Northwest Turret (5.13a, 22 pitches), Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island, Nunavut, Canada—Established route with Joshua Lavigne and Marc-André Leclerc.^[26]

2016, Hidden Dragon (5.12b/c), Chinese Puzzle Wall, Nesakwatch River Valley, British Columbia, Canada—Established route with Marc-André Leclerc.^[27] First free ascent.^[28]

2017, Aurorophobia (5.13+),^[29] Wiaparous River Valley, Alberta, Canada—Established route with Marc-André Leclerc, First Ascent.^[12]

2018, Life Compass, Mount Blane, British Columbia—Established route with Rose Pearson. First ascent.^[30]

2019, The Sound of Silence, Mt Fay, Alberta, Canada —First ascent, with Ines Papert and Luka Lindic.^[21]

2019, MA's Vision (5.12c), Torre Egger, Patagonia —First free ascent, with Quentin Roberts.^[31]

References[]