Culinary diplomacy

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U.S. President Barack Obama and Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe at the Sukiyabashi Jiro sushi restaurant in Tokyo in 2014.
Estonian President Kersti Kaljulaid offering rose honey to French President Emmanuel Macron in 2017.

Culinary diplomacy, gastrodiplomacy or food diplomacy is a type of cultural diplomacy, which itself is a subset of public diplomacy. Its basic premise is that "the easiest way to win hearts and minds is through the stomach".[1] Official government-sponsored culinary diplomacy programs have been established in Taiwan, Thailand, South Korea, Malaysia, Peru, the United States,[2] Cambodia,[3] Japan,[4] Scandinavia,[5] Australia and Uzbekistan.[6]

Background and definitions[]

The terms "culinary diplomacy" and "gastrodiplomacy" have been in use since the early 2000s, and have been popularized by the work of public diplomacy scholars and . An early mention of the concept was in a 2002 Economist article about the Thai Kitchen of the World program.[7][8] In a 2011 article published in the Taiwanese journal Issues & Studies, Rockower wrote that "Gastrodiplomacy is predicated on the notion that the easiest way to win hearts and minds is through the stomach."[1] Chapple-Sokol wrote in a 2013 article in the journal The Hague Journal of Diplomacy that culinary diplomacy is "the use of food and cuisine as an instrument to create cross-cultural understanding in the hopes of improving interactions and cooperation."[2]

Culinary diplomacy versus gastrodiplomacy[]

The two terms "culinary diplomacy" and "gastrodiplomacy" are used interchangeably by many, though some scholars have differentiated the terms. Rockower, for example, claims that gastrodiplomacy refers to a tool of public diplomacy, while culinary diplomacy serves as "a means to further diplomatic protocol through cuisine".[9] Chapple-Sokol writes that both of these fall under the broad categorization of "culinary diplomacy", and differentiates between public and private culinary diplomacy.[2] The former refers to culinary diplomacy being used as a tool of public diplomacy, and more specifically cultural diplomacy, while the latter "occurs behind closed doors", akin to Rockower's definition. However, later Chapple-Sokol went on to redefine "gastrodiplomacy" as specifically the "government-to-foreign public engagement" and one of the three pillars making up the broader culinary diplomacy.[10]

Examples[]

Taiwan[]

In 2010 Taiwan launched a 20 million pound culinary diplomacy campaign which emphasized cultural elements such as Taiwan's night markets and dishes and drinks like bubble tea and oyster omelette.[11] Taiwan has sought to use culinary diplomacy along with traditional marketing to boost its tourism sector. It also allows Taiwan to conduct diplomacy in countries it has traditionally had a challenge conducting diplomacy in due to its limited international recognition.[2]

Thailand[]

The "" program, launched in 2002, was a government-led culinary diplomacy initiative. It aimed to boost the number of Thai restaurants worldwide to 8,000 by 2003 from about 5,500 previously.[8] By 2011, that number had increased to more than 10,000 Thai restaurants worldwide.[12]

The program was explained in Thailand: Kitchen of the World, an eBook published to promote the program. The point of the e-book: "In the view of the Export Promotion Department, Thai restaurants have a good business potential that can be developed to maintain a high level of international recognition. To achieve that goal, the department is carrying out a public relations campaign to build up a good image of the country through Thai restaurants worldwide."[7]: Chapter 7 

The Department of Export Promotion of the Thai Ministry of Commerce offers potential restaurateurs plans for three different "master restaurant" types—from fast food to elegant—which investors can choose as a prefabricated restaurant plan.[13][14] Concomitantly, the Export-Import Bank of Thailand offered loans to Thai nationals aiming to open restaurants abroad, and the Small and Medium Enterprise Development Bank of Thailand set up an infrastructure for loans of up to US$3 million for overseas food industry initiatives, including Thai restaurants.[14]

South Korea[]

First Lady of the Republic of Korea Kim Yoon-ok giving a speech at the "Korean Cuisine to the World" symposium in 2009

South Korea launched its own culinary diplomacy program in 2009, a $77m investment entitled "Korean Cuisine to the World" or "Global Hansik".[15] The goals of the program, run by the Ministry of Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, are to promote the unique nature and health qualities of Korean cuisine (hansik), as well as to increase the number of Korean restaurants worldwide to 40,000 by 2017.[16] Projects undertaken by the Korean government include the opening of the World Institute of Kimchi, working to establish Korean cuisine as a course in internationally recognized cooking schools, and the launch of a touring Korean food truck.[15]

Malaysia[]

Since 2010 Malaysia has undertaken a similar project by running the "" program.[17] The program, carried out by the Malaysia External Trade Development Corporation, has focused most of its efforts to promote Malaysian cuisine in Australia, United States and United Kingdom.[9] Malaysia is an especially appropriate country to conduct culinary diplomacy due to its history as a culinary crossroads and its current mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian populations. The approach, which has employed celebrity chefs such as Rick Stein and Norman Musa in the UK, has had significant impact in increasing awareness of Malaysian cuisine and Malaysian restaurants[18] through product promotions and cooking demonstrations at supermarkets, food festivals and an annual night market at Trafalgar Square, London.[19]

Peru[]

An official Peruvian culinary diplomacy program started in 2011, with Peru's application for its cuisine to be included in UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage, the first year food heritage was recognized.[20] Peruvian cuisine was denied the status of food heritage in its initial application.[21] The Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo campaign has also been promoted by Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio, the owner of multiple restaurants worldwide as well as a co-creator of the documentary Perú Sabe, along with Spanish chef Ferran Adrià.[22]

The Peruvian gastronomy is promoted by its proponents as a byproduct of Peru's multicultural national identity and what anthropologist Raúl Matta defines as the “three values embedded in Latin American neoliberal societies: cultural diversity promotion, entrepreneurship and competitiveness.”[23] Through the strategic use of media and culinary champions, Peru has attained greater prestige for its cuisine among international food communities, which is evidenced by the country winning the World's Leading Culinary Destination award every year from 2012 to 2019.[24] Further examples of Peru's successful use of food to influence foreign publics include the strategic opening of Peruvian restaurants in Santiago, Chile by Peruvian nationals to facilitate immigration[25] and the economic benefits received by the Nikkei community in Lima, Peru as a result of Peru's promotion of Nikkei cuisine on the international stage.[26]

Cambodia[]

Cambodian chef Luu Meng (second from right) with his business partner Richard Gillet (second from left) in Avignon, France in 2016 promoting Cambodian cuisine

In December 2020, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation launched an official "Food Diplomacy 2021–2023" campaign as part of a larger economic diplomacy strategy. At the launch Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation Prak Sokhonn listed prahok, fish amok, pomelo salad, samlar kakou, coconut-pineapple curry (samlar k'tis), coconut prahok dip and num banh chok as some of the Khmer dishes to be promoted in the campaign. The ministry also established a program to train Cambodian cooks for serving in Cambodian embassies and a program for providing ambassador spouses with knowledge about the Khmer cuisine.[3]

In February 2021 the ministry published a cookbook "The Taste of Angkor" as a culinary promotion tool for Cambodian diplomatic missions abroad[27] and in May it republished an expanded edition of a 1960 Cambodian cookbook and culinary guide "The Culinary Art of Cambodia" by Princess Norodom Rasmi Sobbhana.[28][29]

United States[]

U.S. President Barack Obama giving a toast during a U.S. state dinner in honor of the visiting Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi in 2016

In September 2012, the United States officially launched its .[30] More than 80 chefs, including White House Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford, former White House Executive Pastry Chef William Yosses, and Spanish-born chef José Andrés, were named to be members of the "". The initiative is organized by the United States State Department Office of Protocol. One goal of the program is to send members of the Chef Corps to American embassies abroad on public diplomacy missions to teach about American cuisine.

Selected List of American Chef Corps[]

The Club des Chefs des Chefs[]

The Club des Chefs des Chefs annual meeting in London (2014)

At the summit of culinary diplomacy is Le Club des Chefs des Chefs,[31] or the Leaders' Chefs' Club. Created in 1977 by , former CEO of , the club annually brings together more than 25 chefs of heads of state to meet and discuss their work. Current club members include Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford from The White House, Chef Bernard Vaussion, formerly of the Élysée Palace, Chef Mark Flanagan, Chef to Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom, and Chef Machindra Kasture, Chef to the Indian President.

The 2013 meeting of the club was hosted by White House Chef Cristeta Comerford and took place in New York City and Washington, DC.[32] The chefs met with United Nations Secretary General Ban Ki-Moon as well as United States President Barack Obama.

The 2014 meeting of the club was hosted by Buckingham Palace chef Mark Flanagan, where the group met Queen Elizabeth II.[33]

The 2015 meeting of the club took place in Switzerland and Italy, where the club visited Expo 2015 in Milan.[34]

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ Jump up to: a b Rockower, Paul S. "Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan's Public Diplomacy Outreach." Issues & Studies 47, no. 1 (March 2011): 107-152.
  2. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Chapple-Sokol, Sam (2013). "Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds". The Hague Journal of Diplomacy. 8 (2): 161–183. doi:10.1163/1871191x-12341244.
  3. ^ Jump up to: a b Siow, Maria (January 3, 2021). "Cambodia is taking a pungent, potent approach to food diplomacy: prepare for prahok". South China Morning Post. Retrieved April 14, 2021.
  4. ^ Farina, Felice (2015-08-03). "Japan's gastrodiplomacy as soft power: global washoku and national food security" (PDF). Journal of Contemporary Eastern Asia. 17 (1): 152–167. doi:10.17477/jcea.2018.17.1.152.
  5. ^ The emergence of a New Nordic Food Culture: Final report from the program New Nordic Food II, 2010–2014 (PDF). Nordic Council of Ministers. 2015. doi:10.6027/ANP2015-723. ISBN 978-92-893-4155-4.
  6. ^ Abduazimov, M. (2017-07-01). "Gastrodiplomacy: foreign experience and potential of the republic of Uzbekistan". International Relations: Politics, Economics, Law. 2017 (2): 3–11. ISSN 2010-6203.
  7. ^ Jump up to: a b Thailand: Kitchen of the World. Bangkok: The Government Public Relations Department (Thailand) (PRD). n.d. Archived from the original on 1 September 2018. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  8. ^ Jump up to: a b "Thailand's gastro-diplomacy". The Economist. 2002-02-21. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  9. ^ Jump up to: a b Rockower, Paul S. "Recipes for Gastrodiplomacy." Place Branding and Public Diplomacy Volume 8 (2012): 235-346.
  10. ^ Chapple-Sokol, Samuel (28 August 2016). "A New Structure for Culinary Diplomacy". culinarydiplomacy.com. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  11. ^ Booth, Robert (8 August 2010). "Taiwan launches 'gastro-diplomacy' drive". The Guardian. The Guardian. Retrieved 1 April 2020.
  12. ^ "Developing Chefs for Thai Cuisine Who Will Promote Thai Food Standards Overseas". The Government Public Relations Department (PRD) (Thailand). 2011-03-21. Archived from the original (Press release) on 2013-09-26. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  13. ^ "Thai Select". Thai Select. 2013-02-15. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  14. ^ Jump up to: a b Karp, Myles (2018-03-29). "The Surprising Reason that There Are So Many Thai Restaurants in America". Vice. Retrieved 16 August 2018.
  15. ^ Jump up to: a b Pham, Mary Jo A. "Food as Communication: A Case Study of South Korea's Gastrodiplomacy." Journal of International Service Volume 22, Number 1 (Spring 2013): 1-22.
  16. ^ Kim Hyun-cheol (2009-04-06). Global Hansik off to strong start. The Korea Times
  17. ^ "'Malaysia Kitchen for the World 2010' Campaign Launched to Promote Malaysian Restaurants and Cuisine in the New York Metro Area" PRNewswire
  18. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2013-12-03. Retrieved 2013-11-23.CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  19. ^ "Thousands drawn to Trafalgar Square for a taste of Malaysia". 2013-10-05.
  20. ^ Wilson, Rachel. "Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand, and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru." Archived 2014-04-23 at the Wayback Machine
  21. ^ Matta, Raúl (2016-08-01). "Food incursions into global heritage: Peruvian cuisine's slippery road to UNESCO". Social Anthropology (in French). 24 (3): 338–352. doi:10.1111/1469-8676.12300. ISSN 1469-8676.
  22. ^ Inicio > The Documentary. "The Documentary". Peru Sabe. Archived from the original on 2012-10-13. Retrieved 2013-07-02.CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  23. ^ Matta, Raúl (2014-12-03). "República gastronómica y país de cocineros: comida, política, medios y una nueva idea de nación para el Perú". Revista Colombiana de Antropología (in Spanish). 50 (2): 15–40. doi:10.22380/2539472x45. ISSN 2539-472X.
  24. ^ "PromPeru - Peruvian Tourism Board nominee profile on WorldTravelAwards.com". World Travel Awards. Retrieved 2021-04-07.
  25. ^ Imilan, Walter (2015-08-03). "Performing national identity through Peruvian food migration in Santiago de Chile". Fennia. 193 (2): 227–241. doi:10.11143/46369. ISSN 1798-5617.
  26. ^ Takenaka, Ayumi (2019-06-06). ""Nikkei Food" for Whom? Gastro-Politics and Culinary Representation in Peru". Anthropology of Food (in French) (14). doi:10.4000/aof.10065. ISSN 1609-9168.
  27. ^ Thmey, Thmey (6 February 2021). "Foreign Ministry Offers the World a Taste of Khmer Culture". Cambodianess. Retrieved 17 May 2021.
  28. ^ Olszewski, Peter (27 May 2021). "Right Royal Cookbook Republished". Khmer Times. Retrieved 31 May 2021.
  29. ^ Hong, Raksmey (2 June 2021). "Kingdom's food and traditional culture in book of royal recipes". The Phnom Penh Post. Retrieved 3 June 2021.
  30. ^ U.S. Department of State to Launch Diplomatic Culinary Partnership. 2012/1392
  31. ^ "Le Club des Chefs des Chefs - Accueil". Club-des-chefs-des-chefs.com. 2012-06-25. Archived from the original on 2013-05-31. Retrieved 2013-07-02.
  32. ^ "Le Club des Chefs des Chefs - Le rendez-vous annuel". Club-des-chefs-des-chefs.com. Archived from the original on 2013-10-04. Retrieved 2013-10-02.
  33. ^ "Le Club des Chefs des Chefs - Past Events". Club-des-chefs-des-chefs.com. Retrieved 2015-09-02.
  34. ^ "Le Club des Chefs des Chefs - News". Club-des-chefs-des-chefs.com. Retrieved 2015-09-02.

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