Josune Bereziartu

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Josune Bereziartu
Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg
Josune Bereziartu in 2012.
Personal information
NationalitySpanish
Born (1972-01-19) January 19, 1972 (age 49)
Lazkao
Height174 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight57 kg (126 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forFirst woman to climb 8c (5.14b), 8c+ (5.14c), 9a (5.14d) and 9a/9a+ 
Updated on October 31, 2017.

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola (born January 19, 1972) is a Basque rock climber. She is known for being the first woman to climb 8c (5.14b), 8c+ (5.14c), 9a (5.14d) and 9a/9a+  routes.[1]

Biography[]

Early life[]

Josune Bereziartu, was born on January 19, 1972, at Lazkao, a Basque town of the province of Gipuzkoa, northern Spain. Josune was first inspired to climb after watching a Spanish TV show documenting two girls climbing in the Verdon Gorge. She was immediately inspired to start climbing and started to try a few things but really needed professional help. Her sister's boyfriend helped her out and introduced her to some climbers to get her going the right way, then she started Climbing at 17.

Relationship[]

Bereziartu wedded her long term climbing partner Rikar Otegui. For their honeymoon they went to London, England. The two own a home in Spain. With the climbing community being so small Josune soon met the best climbers in the Basque Country. Rikar Otegui was one of them with a climbing level of 8b+. Not only were Josune and Rikar dating but he also became her instructor. Rikar showed her the importance of training and better ways to train so she can go further. Josune and Rikar have their own plastic climbing walls for training even though real rock has a much different feel Josune feels it is important to climb real rock before every training session. Rikar helped her set up her first one and they were identical but she soon realized their strengths and weaknesses were different so she started customizing hers to work on her weakness, and then she started to get better and better.

Climbing[]

She takes annual climbing trips which take place on her vacations, from her day job. She has been climbing since 1989.[2]

She is the first female to have climbed the grade 9a/5.14d Bain de Sang in 2002 and Logical Progression. Bain de Sang in St Loup, Switzerland, had its first ascent (FA) by Fred Nicole and was the third 9a route in the world. Logical Progression is a sport route by Dai Koyamada.

In May 2005, she made the second ascent of Bimbaluna, graded 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a). Bimbaluna was originally climbed by Francois Nicole (Fred Nicole's brother) in May 2004. The route is to the right of Bain de Sang.

Career[]

During the week, Bereziartu sells insurance and investments for a Spanish bank, Mapre. Bereziartu designs and creates her own resin holds to sell for indoor climbing walls. When she began her serious climbing career, she was obsessed with being the first woman to complete a route, regardless if men had climbed it before.

Bereziartu has consistently pushed the limits of what women have accomplished in sport climbing. Redpointing Bain de Sang, made her the first woman to climb 5.14d. She has also climbed many other 5.14s.[3]

Bereziartu has sent 76 routes between 8a and 9a+, from which 28 have been onsight.

Rankings[]

Climbing World Cup[4][]

Discipline 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Lead 55 25 26 18 8 7 35
Bouldering 14

Climbing World Championships[5][]

1995 1997 1999
Lead 24 15 8

Rock climbing[]

Redpointed routes[]

9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a):

  • Bimbaluna - Saint Loup (SUI) - May 1, 2005[6]

9a (5.14d):

  • Logical Progression - Jo Yama (JPN) - November 22, 2004[7]
  • Bain de Sang - Saint Loup (SUI) - October 29, 2002 - World's first female ascent of a 9a route[8]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - May 21, 2007[9]
  • Na Nai - Baltzola (ESP) - June 18, 2003[10]
  • Noia - Andonno (ITA) - October 18, 2001

Onsighted routes[]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Hidrofobia - Montsant (ESP) - April 18, 2006[11]

8b (5.13d):

  • Fuente de energia - Valdiello - October 1, 2005
  • La Réserve - St Léger (FRA) - October 1, 2005
  • Steroid Performa - Japan - December 28, 2004

Boulder problems[]

8B (V13):

  • E la Nave va - Lindental (SUI) - May 10, 2003 - Traverse[12]
  • Travesia De Balzola - Baltzola (ESP) - April 6, 2002 - Traverse[13]

8A+ (V12):

  • Solaris - Baltzola (ESP) - April 15, 2003[14]

Multi-pitch routes[]

  • El Castillo de los Sacristanes - Ordesa Park (ESP) - 2009 - First free ascent with Rikar Otegui[15]
  • Zaratustra - Ordesa Park (ESP) - 2008 - Climbed with Rikar Otegui[16]
  • El Ojo Critico - Ordesa Park (ESP) - July 6, 2007 - First free ascent with Rikar Otegui[17]
  • Super Weissmuller - Petit Pic De Ansabere (FRA) - June 2007 - First free ascent with Rikar Otegui[18]
  • Divina Comedia - Ordesa Park (ESP) - July 2006 - First free ascent with Rikar Otegui[19]
  • Yeah man - Gran Pfad (SUI) - July 1, 2004 - First free ascent with Rikar Otegui[20]
  • El Pilar del Cantabrico - Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) - 2002 - Climbed with Iker Pou[21]

Awards[]

See also[]

  • Notable first free ascents

References[]

  1. ^ "Josune Bereziartu broke female climbing barriers". Climbing. 2021-06-20. Retrieved 2021-06-23.
  2. ^ List of ascents by Bereziartu
  3. ^ Josune Bereziartu
  4. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  5. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Bereziartu's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  6. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 25, 2005). "Josune Bereziartu e Bimbaluna 9a/9a+".
  7. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 22, 2004). "Japan climbing tour di Bereziartu e Otegi".
  8. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 13, 2002). "Josune Bereciartu e il primo 9a femminile".
  9. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 28, 2007). "Josune Bereziartu sale Powerade, 8c+ a Vadiello".
  10. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 3, 2003). "Na-Nai 8c+, per Josune Bereziartu".
  11. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 18, 2006). "Arrampicata: Josune Bereziartu prima donna sull'8b+ on-sight".
  12. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 24, 2003). "Bereciartu su "E la nave va", 8c traverse".
  13. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 16, 2002). "La Travesia De Balzola per Josune Bereziartu".
  14. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (March 24, 2003). "Solaris, 8a+ boulder per Bereciartu".
  15. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 3, 2009). "Josune Bereziartu e Rikar Otegui salgono El Castillo de los Sacristanes nel Parco Nazionale de Ordesa".
  16. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 15, 2008). "Arrampicata: Josune Bereziartu e Rikar Otegui salgono Zaratustra nel Parco Nazionale de Ordesa".
  17. ^ Nicholas Hobley (July 11, 2007). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Pilar de Cotatuero, Ordesa: Bereziartu and Oteguia add 'El Ojo Critico' 8a".
  18. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 28, 2007). "Bereziartu e Otegui liberano Super Weissmuller 8a/8a+, Petit Pic De Ansabere".
  19. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 10, 2006). "Bereziartu e Otegui liberano Divina Comedia".
  20. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (August 11, 2004). "Yeah man: prima libera per Josune Bereziartu e Rikar Otegi".
  21. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 16, 2002). "Bereziartu e Pou salgono "El Pilar del Cantabrico"".

External links[]

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