Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Lead climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates23 June – 4 September 2021
Champions
MenItaly Stefano Ghisolfi
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
← 2020
 →

Lead climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of event in Xiamen, China.[1]

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.[2]

Overview[]

Date Location Venue Route-setters* Men Women
June, 23–26 Austria Innsbruck, Austria Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[3]
  • Poland Adam Pustelnik
  • Czech Republic Jan Zbranek
  • Japan Okano Hiroshi
 Austria Jakob Schubert Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 1–3 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[4]
  • France Julien Gras
  • Germany Christian Bindhammer
  • Austria Reinhard Fichtinger
 United States Sean Bailey Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 12–13 France Chamonix, France Place du Mont Blanc[5]
  • Poland Marcin Wszolek
  • France Vincent De Girolamo
  • Austria Florian Murnig
 United States Sean Bailey Italy Laura Rogora
July, 17–18 France Briancon, France Parc des Sports[6]
  • Austria Martin Hammerer
  • Russia Anna Gallyamova
  • Italy Alberto Gnerro
 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Czech Republic
September, 3–4 Slovenia Kranj, Slovenia Dvorana Zlato polje[7]
  • France Vincent De Girolamo
  • France Julien Gras
  • Austria Martin Hammerer
 Japan Slovenia Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Slovenia Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAM Slovenia Slovenia

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking[]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[8]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 319 2. 80 11. 31 2. 80 1. 100 12. 28
2 United States Sean Bailey 277 ( — ) 1. 100 1. 100 4. 55 15. 22
3 Japan 263 4. 55 7. 43 9. 37 12. 28 1. 100
4 Slovenia 212 7. 43 25. 6 7. 43 8. 40 2. 80
5 Switzerland 204 3. 65 12. 28 4. 55 5. 51 26. 5
6 Czech Republic 192.87 12. 28 32. 0.87 3. 65 3. 65 10. 34
7 Spain Alberto Gines Lopez 169 5. 51 5. 51 14. 24 7. 43 ( — )
8 Germany 160.0 57. 0 4. 55 15. 22 17. 18 3. 65
9 Slovenia Domen Skofic 135 17. 18 15. 22 25. 6 10. 34 4. 55
10 Germany Alexander Megos 127 6. 47 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )

Women[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[9]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 300 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100
2 United States Natalia Grossman 296 25. 6 3. 65 2. 80 2. 80 3. 65
3 Italy Laura Rogora 278 7. 43 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 4. 55
4 Slovenia 269 6. 47 5. 51 4. 55 3. 65 5. 51
5 Slovenia 185 8. 40 7. 43 23. 8 6. 47 6. 47
6 Bulgaria 168 18. 16 6. 47 3. 65 8. 40 ( — )
7 Czech Republic 162 12. 28 ( — ) 10. 34 1. 100 ( — )
8 Japan 146 13. 26 4. 55 11. 31 25. 6 12. 28
9 Japan 128 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51 9. 37 8. 40
9 Slovenia 128 16. 20 11. 31 43. 0 7. 43 10. 34

National Teams[]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Slovenia 1244.0 2. 274.0 2. 229.0 5. 135.0 1. 230.0 1. 376.0
2 Japan Japan 1041.0 1. 279.0 3. 193.0 4. 158.0 5. 134.0 2. 277.0
3 United States United States of America 905.95 5. 110.55 1. 269.0 2. 237.0 2. 200.5 5. 88.9
4 Italy Italy 796.8 3. 149.75 6. 132.85 1. 244.5 4. 164.0 4. 105.7
5 France France 593.95 8. 80.75 5. 147.2 3. 192.0 7. 87.0 6. 87.0
6 Germany Germany 547.2 10. 57.2 4. 159.0 7. 91.35 6. 95.85 3. 143.8
7 Czech Republic Czech Republic 396.55 7. 96.0 19. 0.9 6. 99.85 3. 165.8 13. 34.0
8 Austria Austria 364.25 4. 117.65 7. 71.75 13. 35.5 9. 77.75 8. 61.6
9 Switzerland Switzerland 340.15 6. 96.3 9. 50.4 8. 86.8 10. 70.95 12. 35.7
10 Russia Russia 262.55 9. 57.75 11. 41.8 12. 40.0 8. 80.0 11. 43.0

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26)[]

Men[]

99 men competed in the event.[11]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's took third place after pushing Japan's to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Jakob Schubert 38 1 38+ 3 1.73 39+ 47+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 37 3 35 6 5.1 31+ 47
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Switzerland 34+ 8 31+ 14 11.62 39+ 38+
4 Japan 37 3 11 89 18.97 34+ 38+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López 32 16 34+ 8 12.33 41+ 37+
6 Germany Alexander Megos 37 3 39+ 2 2.83 38+ 37+
7 Slovenia 32+ 13 23 34 21.82 39+ 27+
8 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 37+ 2 TOP 1 1.41 42+ 17

Women[]

75 women competed in the event.[13]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 42+ TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Brooke Raboutou 39+ 4 TOP 1 2.83 36.5+ 40
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Akiyo Noguchi 31 11 35+ 4 7.5 32+ 33+
4 Russia Viktoriia Meshkova 31+ 7 33+ 10 10.91 35 22+
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 31 11 33+ 10 13.23 32 22+
6 Slovenia 41 3 34 7 4.9 35+ 19+
7 Italy Laura Rogora 46+ 2 TOP 1 2.0 42 13+
8 Slovenia 33 5 34 7 6.32 36.5+ 13+

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)[]

Men[]

68 men competed in the event.[14]

USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) United States Sean Bailey TOP 1 32+ 18 9.64 40 38
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos 39+ 8 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 35+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Colin Duffy 38+ 16 TOP 1 7.04 36 31+
4 Germany 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 26.5+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López 39+ 8 33 15 12.96 40+ 26.5
6 France 35 21 TOP 1 8.31 36 26
7 Japan 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 12
8 Japan 35 21 34 8 14.78 36+ 11+

Women[]

53 women competed in the event.[17]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Laura Rogora 20+ 17 TOP 1 7.35 45+ TOP
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 35+ 5 40+ 4 5.24 34+ 42+
4 Japan 36+ 3 TOP 1 2.65 35+ 40+
5 Slovenia 20+ 17 40+ 4 12.19 35+ 40+
6 Bulgaria 32+ 6 35+ 11 8.46 36+ 33+
7 Slovenia 37 2 40+ 4 3.32 40+ 17+
8 Slovenia Mia Krampl 36+ 3 35 12 6.48 35 17+

Chamonix, France (July, 12–13)[]

Men[]

73 men competed in the event.[18]

USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) United States Sean Bailey 37+ 5 40 10 8.31 43 34+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 46 32
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic 35+ 10 39 17 14.9 43 32
4 Switzerland 37 8 TOP 1 6.0 47+ 29
5 Canada TOP 1 38 21 5.61 41+ 28+
6 Italy 35+ 10 40+ 9 10.39 41+ 26+
7 Slovenia 33+ 19 40 10 15.91 45 25+
8 France 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 45+ 25

Women[]

62 women competed in the event.[21]

Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's placed third.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Italy Laura Rogora 44+ 21 TOP 1 9.81 TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 50 2 TOP 1 3.24 TOP 41+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bulgaria 50 2 48 7 4.58 TOP 38+
4 Slovenia 49+ 5 41+ 12 8.49 TOP 38+
5 Japan 44+ 21 47 8 14.83 TOP 32+
6 France Julia Chanourdie 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 29+
7 United States Ashima Shiraishi 47 18 40+ 14 15.87 TOP 29+
8 Russia 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 28+

Briancon, France (July, 17–18)[]

Men[]

68 men competed in the event.[22]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's and Czech Republic’s placed second and third respectively.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 2 32+ 4 3.0 42+ 42+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia 15 52 33+ 2 11.51 40+ 39+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic 29+ 3 29 8 5.66 39+ 37+
4 United States Sean Bailey 29+ 3 27 16 8.0 42+ 36
5 Switzerland 22+ 16 32+ 4 9.25 37+ 35
6 Ukraine 29 6 27+ 13 9.54 37 35
7 Spain Alberto Ginés López 22+ 16 33+ 2 6.89 37 27+
8 Slovenia 33 1 30+ 7 2.65 37 22

Women[]

56 women competed in the event.[24]

Czech Republic’s claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's placed third.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic 30 5 27+ 17 9.35 TOP 36
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 34+ 1 36 1 1.0 TOP 35+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Slovenia 12 49 35+ 2 13.1 TOP 29
4 United States Ashima Shiraishi 23+ 23 32+ 8 13.98 TOP 27+
5 Japan 31+ 3 24 37 11.53 36+ 27+
6 Slovenia 33+ 2 35+ 2 2.65 TOP 26+
7 Slovenia 28+ 7 34+ 6 7.55 38 24+
8 Bulgaria 27+ 14 28 15 14.73 41 22+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 3–4)[]

Men[]

61 men competed in the event.[25]

Japan's won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's placed second and Germany's placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 41+ 37
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia 18+ 46 TOP 1 10.95 41 31+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Germany 29+ 14 38 5 9.8 40+ 31+
4 Slovenia Domen Skofic TOP 1 TOP 1 3.71 29+ 31+
5 Ukraine 25+ 25 37+ 8 16.84 37+ 30+
6 Japan 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 40+ 16+
7 Slovenia TOP 1 35 19 10.49 34+ 15+
8 Japan TOP 1 38 5 5.74 33+ 15+

Women[]

45 women competed in the event.[27]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 43+ 8 5.34 47+ 49+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 36 46
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 29+ 10 TOP 1 6.0 37+ 41+
4 Italy Laura Rogora TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 44+ 39
5 Slovenia 34+ 6 43+ 8 8.15 38+ 39
6 Slovenia 29 15 44 7 10.42 36+ 34+
7 Russia 34+ 6 TOP 1 4.58 35+ 31+
8 Japan 25+ 18 36 28 24.17 34+ 26

References[]

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  2. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  3. ^ "2021 Innsbruck info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  4. ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  5. ^ "2021 Chamonix info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  6. ^ "2021 Briançon info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  7. ^ "2021 Kranj info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  8. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  9. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  10. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  13. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  14. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  15. ^ a b "Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup—On a Roll". Climbing. 2021-07-03. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  17. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  18. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  19. ^ a b "Unreal—Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That's Two In a Row". Climbing. 2021-07-13. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  20. ^ a b c d "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cups Chamonix and Briançon 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  21. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  22. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  23. ^ a b "Briancon Threatens to Crush Team USA Under the Weight of Medals". Climbing. 2021-07-18. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  24. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  25. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  26. ^ a b "Garnbret, Grossman Battle At Climbing's World Cup Lead Finals In Slovenia. Results and Highlights". Climbing. 2021-09-04. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  27. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
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