List of items traditionally worn in Japan

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There are a number of items that can be worn with traditional Japanese dress, varying by occasion and use. Some are ceremonial, or worn only for special occasions, whereas others are part of everyday dressing in kimono and are used in a more practical sense.

Members of the Imperial family on formal occasions, geisha, maiko, and sumo wrestlers wear variations on common traditional accessories that are not found in everyday dress. As an extension of this, many practitioners of Japanese traditional dance wear similar kimono and accessories to geisha and maiko.

For certain traditional holidays and occasions some specific types of kimono accessories are worn. For instance, yukata are worn to festivals, and okobo and furisode are worn by girls for shichi-go-san and young women on seijin no hi (Coming of Age Day). A slightly taller, plainer variation of okobo are also worn by maiko in some areas of Japan throughout their apprenticeship.

A-H[]

Type Photo Description Construction Historical and culltural roles
Datejime (伊達締め) or Datemaki (伊達巻き)
A traditional silk datejime with stiffer middle and softer ends. (more images)
A wide undersash used to flatten and keep in place the kimono and/or the nagajuban when tied. Datejime can be made of a variety of fabrics, including silk, linen and elastic.[1]
(ファー)
At Meiji jingu on "Coming Of Age Day". (more images)
A fur collar, boa, stole, or even a muff, worn over a kimono. Hide (skin) White fur stoles are usually worn by young women on their Coming of Age Day, whereas other colours are likely to be worn by older women to keep warm.
Geta (下駄) Wooden thong sandals Geta are usually made of a lightweight wood such as paulownia, and come in a variety of styles, such as ama geta ("rain geta", covering the feet) and tengu geta (with just one prong on the sole instead of two). Worn with yukata and other casual kimono, or traditionally, in bad weather.
Hachimaki (鉢巻): A traditional Japanese headband, worn to keep sweat off of one's face
Pounding mochi.(more images)
A headband. A strip of absorbent cloth, usually cotton, sometimes printed. Worn to keep sweat off of one's face. In Japanese media, it is used as a trope to show the courage of the wearer, symbolising the effort put into their strife, and in kabuki, when appearing as a purple headband tied to the left, it can symbolise a character sick with love.
Hadagi (肌着) A type of clothing similar to a kosode or a shirt The hadagi is generally the same as a normal juban, measuring around two to four sun in length. Hadagi are made of either linen, silk crepe, or cotton. Because hadagi are only worn in cold climates, lined hadagi are preferred over a single-layer garment. The sleeves on this type of shirt are rather narrow, and are at times omitted altogether. Worn by the samurai classes mainly during the Sengoku period (16th century).
Hadajuban (肌襦袢) A thin garment similar to a nagajuban. The hadajuban is considered to be "kimono underwear", worn in direct contact with the skin, and has tube-shaped sleeves. It is worn with a slip-like wrap tied around the waist, with the nagajuban worn on top.[2][3] It is not always worn underneath kimono, and may be substituted for a t-shirt and shorts in the modern day.
Hakama ()
Women at a graduation ceremony, featuring hakama with embroidered flowers, and demonstrating the waistline (more images)
A divided (umanori-bakama) or undivided skirt (andon-bakama) which resembles a wide pair of trousers. Hakama were historically worn by both men and women, and in modern-day can be worn to a variety of formal or informal events. A hakama is typically pleated at the waist and fastened by waist ties over the obi. Shorter kimono may be worn underneath the hakama for ease of movement. Hakama are worn in several budō arts such as aikido, kendo, iaidō and naginata. They are also worn by Miko in Shintō shrines.

Hakama boots[]

Hakama boots (袴ブーツ): A pair of boots (leather or faux leather), with low-to-mid heels, worn with a pair of hakama. Boots are a style of footwear that came to Japan from the West during the Meiji period (1868-1912); worn by women while wearing a hakama, optional footwear worn by young women, students and teachers at high-school and university graduation ceremonies, and by young women out celebrating their Coming of Age at shrines, often with a hakama with furisode combination.

Hakoseko[]

Hakoseko (筥迫, lit. "boxy narrow thing"): A small box-shaped billfold accessory; sometimes covered in materials to coordinate with the wearer's kimono or obi. Fastened closed with a cord, and carried tucked-within a person's futokoro, the space within the front of kimono collar and above the obi. Used for formal occasions that require traditional dress, such as a traditional Shinto wedding or a child's Shichi-Go-San ceremony. Originally used for practical uses, such as carrying around a woman's beni ita (lipstick), omamori (an amulet/talisman), kagami (mirror), tenugui (handkerchief), coins, and the like, it now has a more of a decorative role.

Hanten[]

Hanten (袢纏, lit., "half-wrap"): The worker's version of the more formal haori, typically with narrow, tube-shaped sleeves. As winterwear, it is often padded for warmth, giving it insulating properties, as opposed to the somewhat lighter happi. It could be worn outside in the wintertime by fieldworkers out working in the fields, by people at home as a housecoat or a cardigan, and even slept-in over one's bedclothes.

Haori[]

Haori

Haori (羽織): A hip- or thigh-length kimono-like overcoat with straight, rather than overlapping, lapels. Haori were originally worn by men until they were popularised as women's wear as well by geisha in the Meiji period. The jinbaori (陣羽織) was specifically made for armoured samurai to wear.

Haori himo[]

Haori himo (羽織紐): A tasseled, woven string fastener for haori. The most formal colour is white (see also fusa above).

Happi[]

Happi (法被): A type of overcoat traditionally worn by shop keepers, sometimes as uniform by employees of the shop (not unlike a propaganda kimono, but for advertising business), typically with brightly-coloured designs in white, red and blue, often featuring text in Edomoji. The happi is now associated mostly with festivals.

Haramaki[]

Haramaki (腹巻, lit. "belly wrap"): Items of Japanese clothing that cover the stomach. They are worn for health, fashion and superstitious reasons.

Hifu[]

Hifu (被布): Originally a kind of padded over-kimono for warmth, this has evolved into a sleeveless over-kimono like a padded outer vest or pinafore (also similar to a sweater vest or gilet), worn primarily by girls on formal outings such as the Shichi-Go-San ceremony for children aged seven, five, and three, before a girl gains her first Obi.

Hirabitai[]

Hirabitai (枚額): A decoration, part of a kamiagegu, and similar to a kanzashi, worn on the front of the hair, above the forehead, held into the hair by pins worn by Edo-era aristocratic women in court, like a tiara, with their jūnihitoe robes. See also Tenkan (below).

Jika-tabi[]

Jika-tabi (地下足袋): A modification of the usual split-toe tabi sock design for use as a shoe, complete with rubber sole. Invented in the early 20th century.

Jinbei[]

Jinbei (甚平): Traditional loose-woven two-piece clothing, consisting of a robe-like top and shorts below the waist. Worn by men, women, boys, girls, and even babies, during the hot, humid summer season, in lieu of kimono.

Kimono[]

Kimono (甚平): Traditional square-cut wrap-around garment.

Inrō[]

Inrō with the characters for longevity and good fortune and the "seven lucky treasures" on checkerboard ground, Edo period, 18th century. The fastener on the inro is ojime, and the toggle on the tip of the string is netsuke.

Inro (印籠): An traditional Japanese case for holding small objects, suspended from the obi worn around the waist when wearing kimono. They are often highly decorated, in a variety of materials and techniques, often using lacquer. (See also netsuke and ojime)

Ka[]

Ka (, lit. "rack"): A rack or stand used for holding and displaying kimono.

Kappōgi[]

Kappōgi (割烹着, lit. "cooking wear"): A type of gown-like apron; first designed to protect kimono from food stains, it has baggy sleeves, is as long as the wearer's knees, and fastens with strips of cloth ties that are tied at the back of the neck and the waist. Particularly used when cooking and cleaning, it is worn by Japanese housewives, lunch ladies, and cleaners.

Kasa[]

Kasa (): A traditional Japanese oil-paper umbrella or parasol, these umbrellas as typically crafted from one length of bamboo split finely into spokes. See also Gifu umbrellas.

Kinchaku[]

Kinchaku (巾着): A traditional Japanese drawstring bag or pouch, worn like a purse or handbag (vaguely similar to the English reticule), for carrying around personal possessions. A kind of sagemono.

Kimono slip[]

Kimono slip (着物スリップ, kimono surippu): A one-piece undergarment combining the hadajuban and the susoyoke.[4][5]

Koshihimo[]

lit., "hip cord" (腰紐, Koshihimo): A narrow strip of fabric used to tie the kimono, nagajuban and ohashori in place while dressing oneself in kimono. They are often made of silk or wool.

Michiyuki[]

Michiyuki (道行き): A traditional Japanese overcoat (not to be confused with a haori or a hifu), characterised with a signature square neckline formed by the garment's front overlap. It is fastened at the front with snaps or buttons, and is often worn over the kimono for warmth, protection from the weather or as a casual housecoat. Some michiyuki will include a hidden pocket beneath the front panel, and they are typically thigh- or even knee-length. Michiyuki worn by maiko and geisha may not have a square front neckline, instead having a regular kimono neckline with a black satin collar.

Nagajuban[]

Nagajuban (長襦袢, lit., "long underwear"): A long under-kimono worn by both men and women beneath the main outer garment.[6] Since silk kimono are delicate and difficult to clean, the nagajuban helps to keep the outer kimono clean by preventing contact with the wearer's skin. Only the collar edge of the nagajuban shows from beneath the outer kimono.[7] Many nagajuban have removable collars, to allow them to be changed to match the outer garment, and to be easily washed without washing the entire garment. They are often as beautifully ornate and patterned as the outer kimono. Since men's kimono are usually fairly subdued in pattern and colour, the nagajuban allows for discreetly wearing very striking designs and colours.[8]

Nemaki[]

Nemaki (寝間着): A unisex cotton robe resembling a yukata, but with tube-shaped sleeves. Nemaki are commonly given as guest clothing at inns, and are worn as sleepwear.

Netsuke[]

Netsuke (根付) or Netsuke (根付け): An ornament worn suspended from the men's obi, serving as a cordlock or a counterweight. (See also inro and ojime).

Obi[]

Obi (): a belt of varying size and shape worn with both traditional Japanese clothing and uniforms for Japanese martial arts styles. Originating as a simple thin belt in Heian period Japan, the obi developed over time into a belt with a number of different varieties, with a number of different sizes and proportions, lengths, and methods of tying. The obi, which once did not differ significantly in appearance between men and women, also developed into a greater variety of styles for women than for men.

Obi-age[]

Back of a woman wearing a kimono with the obi sash tied in the tateya musubi style

Obi-age (帯揚げ): A scarf-like sash worn tied above the obi, either knotted or tucked into the garment's collars. The obi-age has the dual purpose of hiding the obi-makura and providing a colour contrast against the obi. Obi-age are often silk, and are typically worn with more formal varieties of kimono. Obi-age can be plain-dyed silk, but are often decorated with shibori tie-dyeing; for maiko, obi-age are only ever red with a gold or silver foil design.

Obidome[]

Obidome (帯留め): A decorative fastening accessory piece, strung onto the obijime. For maiko, the obi-dome is commonly the most expensive part of the outfit, as they are usually hand-made from precious stones and metal such as gold or silver. Some obijime are woven specially to allow the obidome to be pinned on.

Obi-ita[]

Obi-ita (帯板): A thin, stiff board, commonly inserted behind the obi at the front, helping to give a smooth, uniform appearance.

Obijime[]

Obijime (帯締め): A decorative woven or padded cord used to assist in tying more complex bows with the obi, also worn as simple decoration on the obi itself. It can be tied at the front, and the ends tucked into the band itself, or tied at the back, in the case of being worn with an obi-dome.

Obi-makura[]

Obi-makura (帯枕): Padding used to put volume under the obi knot (musubi); to support the bows or ties at the back of the obi and keep them lifted. An essential part of the common taiko musubi ("drum knot").

Ojime[]

Ojime (緒締め): A type of bead used to fasten a obijime in place, like a cordlock. They are also worn between the inrō and netsuke and are typically under an inch in length. Each is carved into a particular shape and image, similar to the netsuke cordlock, though smaller.

Sarashi[]

Sarashi (晒し): Sarashi is Japanese for "bleached cloth", usually cotton, or less commonly linen. Such cloth may be wrapped around the body (under a kimono), usually around the chest (similar to a girdle). Sometimes it is wrapped around below the belly during pregnancy, or around the waist after the birth of a child. It is used by men and women. The whiteness and purity of the cloth has ritual significance, therefore it may also be used in rituals.[citation needed]

Sensu[]

Sensu (扇子): A handheld folding fan, generally made of washi paper coated in paint, lacquer or gold leaf, with bamboo spines. As well as being used for cooling-off, sensu fans are used as dancing props, and are often worn tucked into the obi.

Setta[]

Setta (雪駄): A flat, thick-bottomed sandal made of bamboo and straw with leather soles, and with metal spikes protruding from the heel of the sole to prevent slipping on ice.

Susoyoke[]

Susoyoke (裾除け): A thin half-slip-like piece of underwear, like a petticoat, worn by women under their nagajuban.[2][9]

Suzu[]

Suzu (): A round, hollow Japanese Shinto bell or chime. They are somewhat like a jingle bell in form, though the materials produce a coarse, rolling sound. Suzu come in many sizes, ranging from tiny ones on good luck charms (called omamori (お守り)) to large ones at shrine entrances. As an accessory to kimono wear, suzu are often part of kanzashi.

Tabi[]

Tabi (足袋): Ankle-high, divided-toe socks usually worn with zōri or geta. There also exist sturdier, boot-like jikatabi, which are used for example to fieldwork.

Tasuki[]

Tasuki (): A pair of sashes that loop over each shoulder and across the back, used for holding up kimono sleeves when working.

Tenkan[]

Tenkan (天冠): lit. a "Divine Crown" or "Heavenly Crown"--A design of golden-filigree crown worn by Buddha and celestial beings, such as Tennyo (below). Also worn by imperial princesses in the Heian period. Now worn by Miko during formal occasions such as Matsuri/festivals. Tenkan is also the name of the triangular-cloth-headband seen worn by Yūrei in traditional Japanese artwork. See also Hirabitai (above).

Tenugui[]

Tenugui (手拭い, lit. "hand wiper"): A rectangular piece of fabric, usually cotton or linen, used for a variety of purposes, such as a handkerchief, hand towel and headscarf. tenugui come in a number of colours and patterns, and are also used as accessories in traditional Japanese dance and in kabuki.

Uchiwa[]

Uchiwa (団扇): A type of rigid Japanese fan, typically crafted out of a single length of bamboo split into bones for the fan, and covered with washi paper. The uchiwa is used in summer, and may be worn tucked into the obi.

Waraji[]

Waraji (草鞋): Traditional sandals woven from rope, designed to wrap securely around the foot and around the ankle; mostly worn by monks, and previously common footwear for the working classes.

Yumoji[]

Yumoji (湯文字): A traditional kimono undergarment; a simple wrap-around skirt, worn with a susoyoke.

Zōri[]

Women's straw zōri

Zōri (草履): Traditional sandals worn by both men and women, similar in design to flip-flops. Their formality ranges from strictly informal to fully formal. They are made of many materials, including cloth, leather, vinyl and woven bamboo, and can be highly decorated or very simple.

Religious garments[]

Some related garments are specific to certain religious roles. The chihaya (ちはや/襅) is worn only by kannushi and miko in some Shinto shrine ceremonies, and the samue (作務衣) is the everyday clothing for a male Zen Buddhist lay-monk, and the favoured garment for komusō monks playing the shakuhachi.

Ceremonial and professional garments[]

Jinbaori is a sleeveless jacket worn over Japanese armour.[relevant?]

Jittoku (十徳) are a style of haori worn only by some high-ranking male practitioners of tea ceremony. Jittoku are made of unlined silk gauze, fall to the hip, and have sewn himo ties at the front made of the same fabric as the main garment. The jittoku has a wrist opening that is entirely open along the sleeve's vertical length. The garment originated in the Kamakura Period (1185-1333 CE), and are worn without hakama.

For formal ceremonies, members of Japanese nobility will wear certain types of antiquated kimono such as the (水干) and the Jūnihitoe (十二単). Outside of nobility, jūnihitoe are only found in dress-up (henshin) studios, or in museums as recreations; no examples of Heian period clothing exist, and only small and fragile samples of the fabrics used in those times survive.

Jūnihitoe[]

A young woman with her hair down wearing several layered pink and green Heian-period kimono
A woman modelling a jūnihitoe

Jūnihitoe (十二単, lit., "twelve layers") describes the layered garments worn by court ladies during the Heian period. The jūnihitoe consisted of up to twelve layered garments, with the innermost garment being the kosode - the small-sleeved kimono prototype which would eventually go on to become the outermost garment worn.

The total weight of the jūnihitoe could be up to 20 kg (44 lb). The garments were decorated in relatively large motifs, with a more important aspect being the numerous recorded colour combinations an outfit could have. An important accessory of this outfit was an elaborate hand fan, which could be tied together by tassels tied onto the end fan bones. These fans were made of cypress wood entirely, with the design painted onto the wide, flat bones themselves, and were known as hiōugi.

No extant garments from the Heian period survive, and today the jūnihitoe can only be seen as a reproduction in museums, movies, festivals and demonstrations. The Imperial Household still officially uses them at some important functions, such as the coronation of the new Empress.

Bridalwear[]

Brides in Japan who opt for a traditional ceremony will wear specific accessories and types of kimono, which may be changed and switched out for certain parts of the ceremony; for instance, the wata bōshi hood is removed during the ceremony, and uchikake are worn over the top of shiromuku bridal kimono once the ceremony has been completed, usually at the reception. Many bridalwear traditions, such as the addition of a small (fake) dagger, are amalgams and facsimiles of samurai dress from previous eras.

Japanese bride in her tsunokakushi
  • Tsunokakushi (角隠し, lit. "horn-hiding"): Tsunokakashi is a style of headwear worn by brides in traditional Shinto wedding ceremonies. Tsunokashi may be made of white silk and worn with the bride's white shiromuku wedding kimono, or they may be made of coloured materials to match or coordinate when the bride opts for a non-shiromuku style. Tsunokakashi, unlike wata bōshi, do not cover the high topknot formed by the bride's takashimada-style wig. According to folk etymology, the headwear is worn to hide the bride's horns of jealousy and selfishness; however, this headdress was originally a simpler cap worn to keep the dirt and dust off a woman's hairstyle when travelling.[10] The custom spread from married women in samurai families in the Muromachi and Momoyama periods to younger women of lower classes during the Edo period.
  • Wata bōshi (綿帽子, lit "cotton hat"): Wata bōshi is a style of full-coverage hood also worn by the bride in traditional Shinto weddings. The wata bōshi is always white and worn with shiromuku. Wata bōshi entirely cover the bride's hairstyle.[11]
  • Takashimada (高島田): takashimada katsura are the style of shimada wig worn by brides. This wig resembles the style worn by geisha, with a few key differences; namely that the wig appears to be shorter and fuller, with the mage (bun) at the back placed much higher on the head. The takashimada is worn with a matching set of tortoiseshell or faux-tortoiseshell kanzashi hair accessories
  • Kanzashi (): Kanzashi hair ornaments, made of tortoiseshell or faux-tortoiseshell, are worn with the takashimada wig. These hair accessories will come in a matching set, including a highly decorated kushi comb and kogai hair stick, and a number of bira-bira-style kanzashi, often decorated with flowers in either tortoiseshell or metal and coral or coral-substitute.
  • Sensu (扇子): Sensu folding hand fans, in either entirely gold or silver leaf, are worn tucked into the obi.
  • Futokorogatana (懐刀): Futokorogatana, lit. "chest sword", are small daggers tucked into the collar, often held inside a small, decorative purse made of brocade fabric. Similar to a Kaiken.
  • Hakoseko (箱迫): Hakoseko are small, highly decorative purses worn with wedding kimono. These are also made out of decorative brocade fabric, often with tassels on the ends of the purse, and usually contain some combination of a small mirror and a comb.

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ Coline, Youandi (5 December 2018). "Datejime". Chayatsuji Kimono. chayatsujikimono.wordpress.com. Retrieved 24 January 2020.
  2. ^ Jump up to: a b Yamanaka, Norio (1982). The Book of Kimono. Tokyo; New York: Kodansha International, p. 60. ISBN 0-87011-500-6 (USA), ISBN 4-7700-0986-0 (Japan).
  3. ^ Underwear (Hadagi): Hada-Juban. KIDORAKU Japan. Accessed 22 October 2009.
  4. ^ Yamanaka, Norio (1982). The Book of Kimono. Tokyo; New York: Kodansha International, p. 76. ISBN 0-87011-500-6 (USA), ISBN 4-7700-0986-0 (Japan).
  5. ^ Underwear (Hadagi): Kimono Slip. KIDORAKU Japan. Accessed 22 October 2009.
  6. ^ Yamanaka, Norio (1982). The Book of Kimono. Tokyo; New York: Kodansha International, p. 61. ISBN 0-87011-500-6 (USA), ISBN 4-7700-0986-0 (Japan).
  7. ^ Nagajuban Archived 2008-08-30 at the Wayback Machine undergarment for Japanese kimono
  8. ^ Imperatore, Cheryl, & MacLardy, Paul (2001). Kimono Vanishing Tradition: Japanese Textiles of the 20th Century. Atglen, Penn.: Schiffer Publishing. Chap. 3 "Nagajuban—Undergarments", pp. 32–46. ISBN 0-7643-1228-6. OCLC 44868854.
  9. ^ Underwear (Hadagi): Susoyoke. KIDORAKU Japan. Accessed 22 October 2009.
  10. ^ Kimino, Rinko; Somegoro, Ichikawa (2016). Photographic Kabuki Kaleidoscope (1st ed.). Tokyo: Shogakukan. p. 34. ISBN 978-4-09-310843-0.
  11. ^ Yoshie, Fuami (26 March 2008). "Japanese Traditional Wedding Style: Shiromuku for Brides". Japanese Mind ―日本の心―. fyoshie060861.blogspot.com. Retrieved 4 January 2020.
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