Melchior Anderegg

Whymper's engraving of Melchior Anderegg (1864)

Melchior Anderegg (28 March 1828 – 8 December 1914),^[1] from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. His clients were mostly British, the most famous of whom was Leslie Stephen, the writer, critic and mountaineer; Anderegg also climbed extensively with members of the Walker family, including Horace Walker and Lucy Walker, and with Florence Crauford Grove. His cousin Jakob Anderegg was also a well-known guide.

Alpine guide[]

First ascents by Melchior Anderegg

Wildstrubel, 3,243 m (Bernese Alps), 11 September 1858
Rimpfischhorn, 4,199 m (Pennine Alps), 9 September 1859
Alphubel, 4,206 m (Pennine Alps), 9 August 1860
Blüemlisalphorn, 3,664 m (Bernese Alps), 27 August 1860
Monte Disgrazia, 3,678 m (Bregaglia Range), 23 August 1862
Dent d'Hérens, 4,171 m (Pennine Alps), 12 August 1863
Parrotspitze, 4,432 m (Pennine Alps), 16 August 1863
Balmhorn, 3,698 m (Bernese Alps), 21 July 1864
Zinalrothorn, 4,221 m (Pennine Alps), 22 August 1864
Grandes Jorasses, 4,208 m (Mont Blanc Massif), 30 June 1868

Other noteworthy climbs by Melchior Anderegg

Mont Blanc, 4,809 m, via the Bosses du Dromedaire (1859)
Mont Blanc via the Dôme du Goûter (1861)
Solo reconnaissance up the Zmuttgrat of the Matterhorn (Pennine Alps) (1863)
Mont Blanc via the Brenva face (1865)
Winter traverse of the Finsteraarhorn, 4,273 m (Bernese Alps) (1866)
Civetta, 3,220 m (Dolomites) (1867)
Winter ascent of the Plattenhörner (1869)
First winter ascent of the Galenstock, 3,586 m (Urner Alps) (1877)

Melchior Anderegg (standing, 4th from left), Horace Walker (sitting, 3rd from left), Lucy Walker (standing, 3rd from left)

Wood carver[]

Anderegg was also a professional wood carver and owned a shop in Zermatt that sold his carvings (of bears, groups of chamois, and eagles, amongst other subjects), as well as 'Photographs of all the great peaks around Zermatt', alpenstocks, snow spectacles ('blue, green, and neutral tint') and Whymper's guides.^[2]

Portrait of Melchior Anderegg at sixty-eight (from a photograph by C. Myles Mathews)

References[]

^ Historisches Lexicon der Schweiz
^ Advertisement for Anderegg's shop in Whymper's Guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn, reproduced in Mountains, ed. A. Kenny, London: John Murray, 1991, p. 196

External links[]

Photograph of Melchior Anderegg with Leslie and Julia Stephen, 1889

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[1] Historisches Lexicon der Schweiz

[2] Advertisement for Anderegg's shop in Whymper's Guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn, reproduced in Mountains, ed. A. Kenny, London: John Murray, 1991, p. 196

[1]

[2]

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Settlements	Argentière Chamonix Champex Courmayeur La Fouly Les Houches Montroc Les Praz Saint-Gervais-les-Bains Trient
Mountains	Aiguille d'Argentière Aiguille de Bionnassay Aiguille de Blaitière Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey Aiguille du Chardonnet Aiguilles du Diable Aiguilles Dorées Aiguille du Dru Aiguille des Glaciers Aiguille du Goûter Aiguille des Grands Charmoz Aiguille des Grands Montets Aiguille du Grépon Aiguille du Jardin Aiguille du Midi Aiguille de l'A Neuve Aiguille Noire de Peuterey Aiguille du Pissoir Aiguille du Plan Aiguille de Rochefort Aiguille du Tour Aiguille de Tré la Tête Aiguille de Triolet Aiguille Verte La Breya Le Catogne Le Châtelet (Mont Blanc) Dent du Géant Dôme du Goûter Dôme de Rochefort Les Droites Le Génépi Grand Capucin Grand Darray Grand Pilier d'Angle Grande Lui Grande Pointe des Planereuses Grande Rocheuse Grandes Jorasses Mont Blanc Mont Blanc de Courmayeur Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Brouillard Mont Dolent Mont Mallet Mont Maudit Pic Eccles Picco Luigi Amedeo Pointe Allobrogia Pointe Helbronner Pointe d'Orny Pointe des Plines Pointe Ronde Pointe Walker Le Portalet Punta Baretti Tita Neire Tour Noir Tour Ronde
Cols	Col Ferret Petit Col Ferret Col des Montets
Glaciers	Argentière Bossons Mer de Glace Miage Saleina Tête Rousse Trient
Refuges	Albert Premier A Neuve Argentière Cosmiques Couvercle Durier Elisabetta Francesco Gonella Grands Mulets Leschaux Mont-Blanc Plan de l'Aiguille Quintino Sella Tête Rousse Torino Tré la Tête Trient Saleina Vallot
Mountaineers (first or major ascents)	Allain Almer Anderegg (J.) Anderegg (M.) Balmat Blanchard Blodig Boivin Bonatti Bonington Boulaz Bristow Brown Burgener Cassin Charlet Clough Cordier (H.) Cordier (P.) Couzy Croz Dent Desmaison Destivelle Długosz Eccles Eckenstein Gabarrou Ghirardini Graham Brown Güssfeldt Harlin Heckmair Hemming Hudson Kennedy King Klucker Kuffner Kukuczka Kurtyka Lachenal Lafaille Lambert MacIntyre Maund Mazeaud Messner Middlemore Moore Mummery Paccard Paradis Patey Ratti Rébuffat Rey Robbins Roch Rouse de Saussure Smythe Stephen Terray Twight Vallençant Walker Whillans Whymper Winthrop Young
Other	Arve (river) Chemin de fer du Montenvers Giardino Botanico Alpino Saussurea Haute Route Marathon du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc glacier flood Mont Blanc tramway Mont Blanc Tunnel Saint-Gervais–Vallorcine railway Skyway Monte Bianco Top of the Mont Blanc Tour du Mont Blanc Val d'Aosta Val Ferret Val Veny Vallée Blanche Aerial Tramway

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