Newtro culture

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Newtro (Hangul:뉴트로) is a newly coined word that combines newness and retro, which refers to the tendency to enjoy retro anew and can be traced back to 2018.^[1] It is an amalgamation of trends of modern and retro era (referring to 1920s -1990s) in all fields of life like fashion, music, movie, beverage, food architecture, electronics etc.^[2][3][4] Newtro culture is about discovering novelty from the old and interpreting it in individual life in the 21st century.^[3][4] This culture has swept South Korea in the year 2019 and is still popular in 2021.^[3][4]

Many of the items and experiences are brought back to life to reflect on the previous decades through Newtro culture, giving everyone the chance to relive their past or an opportunity to glimpse through an unknown experience and rediscovering the vintage and historical era. Products reinterpreting old sensibilities are nostalgic for older generation, and are recognized as fresh and new for the younger generation.^[1] Newtro is not only a nostalgic pass-time aimed for middle aged but also a source of entertainment for the younger generation and this aspect is very different from the ordinary retro, rather than simply recreating the objects from the past, it is presented by modern sense i.e interpretation, not representation.^[5][6][7] The book Trend Korea 2020 explains Newtro, "Newtro doesn't sell the past, it borrows the past and sells the present. In other words, Newtro is an interpretation, not a reproduction."^[1]

Reasons for the rise of Newtro culture[]

South Korean singer Lee Hyori on Inkigayo in 2007

1. Media: Popularity of dramas; Like Mr.Sunshine, period dramas set in 19th-century Hanseong, the original name of the capital city Seoul and dramas like Reply 1997, Reply 1994 and Reply 1988 which shows the late 1980s or 1990s Korea to the viewers, are highly popular among the domestic and international audience. This put the retro craze into full swing, awakening nostalgia for Koreans belonging to that era and providing a new experience for the present youth generation.^[8][9]
2. Demography of Korea: With the shifting demographic center to individuals in their 30s to 50s, media and market carter to the audience of this age group by making more TV shows with Newtro concept, companies are also reintroducing snacks and beverages with old packaging design, clothing and old-time trends.^[10][1]
3. Growth of Online platform & SNS: Youtube opened opportunities to view past programs more easily rather than waiting for reruns. This increased the viewership for TV programs which were popular in 1990s and 2000s. The broadcasters are summoning old TV shows to YouTube that have been successful in the run-up. Family sitcoms like "Unstoppable High Kicks", Music Programs like "Inkigayo" and more are the highlights.^[1] Posting photographs and trending hashtags on SNS such as Instagram attracted more visitors to Newtro themed cafes, streets and increased the consumption of Newtro products.^[11][12]
4. Retreat: The rising social, economic and health issues, falling human happiness index and strong nostalgic feelings in the fast paced society is increasing the tendency to crave for an era which was devoid of such concerns.^[6][11][1]
5. Bridge between generations: Retro style products are becoming a bridge between old and young generation. Foods or snacks of the older generations are now available for the younger generations and these retro style foods could be a conversation start between the generations thus reducing the generation gap.^[13][11] It is a way to create inter-generational rapport and generational integration beyond the curiosity of the memory consumption of the older generations and the retro of the young generation.^[1]

Expert Lee Jun-young, Prof. of Consumer Economics, Sangmyung University believes Newtro is very popular in Korea since there are no limit to new content so Newtro really meets demand and likely to continue to evolve and lasts for some time to come.^[6]

Popular Newtro trends in South Korea[]

Hanok Cafe at Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea

Hanok Cafe at Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea

Hanbok (female and male)

The East Light Wearing Hanboks for Chuseok

Ikseon-dong

Samsung Galaxy Z Flip

1. Hanok (Hangul: 한옥) cafe/Dabang (Hangul: 다방)) & music dabang:
   Many cafes are incorporating retro-inspired decors and furniture. More Dabang (a traditional Korean coffee house) styled cafes are coming up like Haenghwatang and coffee Hanyakbang.^[14][2][4]
   Eulji-ro (Korean: downtown Seoul, named after the general Eulji Mundeok (Hangul: 을지문덕) ^[15] offers an industrial historical taste of Korea with historical machine or tool shops, printing shops and traditional houses being renovated into restaurants which stores a mix of traditional interior design with modem eateries and bakeries.^[6] Most Hanok cafes maintain the external appearance and general structure of a traditional Hanok while having modern interior like Dagwawa Cafe in Gyeongju, Cafe Edge in Chungnam and Hemel Cafe in Sejong City.^[16][17]
2. Modern Hanbok:
   Hanbok (Hangul:한복 ) usually refer to traditional Korean clothes worn during Joseon Dynasty period. It has been transformed into modern Hanbok while keeping intact the key features of the traditional one. The modernized Hanbok is rising in trend with the help of K-pop artists like VIXX, BTS, A.C.E, Blackpink, ONEUS, etc.,who featured adorning these modern versions in their music video concepts, season's greetings, concept photos,etc. In November 2019, Zijangsa (Hangul: 지장사) modernized Hanbok, a small brand that makes comfortable, wearable Hanbok, experienced an unexpected surge in order leading to be sold out in their official site and were able to sell for the first time in an offline store after artist like BTS's Jungkook and V wore hanbok of their brand. Many stores and brands like Leesle, Danha Seoul offers modern Hanboks. Also, since October 2020 Korean schools have started incorporating Hanbok-inspired uniforms; which was introduced by Hanbok Advanced Center.^{[18][19][17][2]}
3. Fashion/Vintage clothes:
   The Newtro trend has brought back clothes, footwear, accessories from the past three decades. Fila released a remake from the 1970s which has been selling steadily with sales of more than 500,000 pairs. Dongmyo Market, Jongno-gu Dist., Seoul; which was popular among the elderly is now visited by more young population. Many artist like SSAK3 sported style from 90s, K-pop artist like BTS wore 70s inspired outfits for their Dynamite music video. Bell-bottom pants, bold prints, vintage boomer jackets, baggy jeans are back in fashion. The ‘2018 F/W Hera Seoul Fashion Week’ held at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in October 2018 saw the reappearance of fashion popular which was 30 years back.^[17][7][20]
4. Cosmetics/makeup skin care product:
   Makeup companies like Clio, Romand, Peripera, Stonebrick are releasing limited edition makeup in retro style along with making the package look like VHS tapes and cassettes ( in Korea cassette tapes were first introduced in 1960s) to give it a very retro look. The makeup trend from 80s to the early ’00s is also back in fashion.^[17]
5. Food product using their old packaging:
   Gompyo, a flour company had redesigned their beer packaging with 90s elements and used original logo following Newtro culture. Jinro soju bottle released their previous version of 1970s & 1980s and since its released in April, sales of those have hit like over 100 million units in 7 months.^[21][6][22] 70s version of Soju (Kumbokju’s Soju King, Muhak and Jinro) have made their comeback with original packaging, logos and taste. The old transparent bottle caught up fast as the younger generation prefers them more than the current Soju coming in green bottles. One beer company has used its old bear character (used back in 1950s) and retro style fonts on its packaging.^[21][23][17]
6. Retro style arcades:
   Nintendo Tencent have released games like super Mario Bros.^[13] Kom Kom Arcade gives an option to play games from 80s and 90s (featured in the K-drama When the Camellia Blooms) likewise arcades Mengkkongyee in Jeonju.^[23][17]
7. Old school snacks:
   Food companies are following the Newtro trend too; one company has re-launched a type of noodles 30 years after they were originally on the markets. Old time snacks have also made a comeback like Samyang's Star popeye snack, Lotte's Juicy & Fresh Gum, Lotte's Cheetos, Gompyo's popcorn, nachos.^{[23][17][22][7]}
8. Hanok style home decor:
   Hanok is the traditional Korean housing built and designed in the 14th century during Joseon Dynasty. In the modern times with the fast changing Korea Hanok has not lost its appeal, which lead to the incorporation of certain characteristic features of Hanok into modern houses and living space.^[17][2][4]
9. Newtro tourist activity:
   In downtown Seoul there are dozens of boutique shops that rent out cloths like dresses, suits and accessories from the late 19th century to the early 20th century for few hours in low price and the customers can take selfies either inside or outside the shop. Now these shops are thriving since demand from 30s and 40s are also rising.^[6] Retro styled school uniforms are no more just a tourist activity- there is a surge in number of Koreans wanting to experience a different era as if travelling back in time, a popular activity for Korean couples. Many retail uniform rental is available in Hanok villages and also in Sucheon Open Film Set.^[17][24]
10. Electronic gadgets:
    Samsung's Z Flip is the reintroduced flip phones which were popular in 2000s, Penna - Retro Bluetooth Keyboard, home appliance industry, such as refrigerators, washing machines, and water purifiers, is targeting customers by increasing the lineup of Newtro designs.^[25][17]
11. Newtro concept in K-pop music videos and album packaging:
    Even in the digital age there is growing demand for LP store like LP stores in Yongsan-gu district, Seoul, where visitors can listen to and buy LP records.1500 people visit this place every day. LP sells in South Korea recorded 600,000 copies in 2019 more than double compared to 2016.^[26] Newtro trend can be seen in the K-pop group DIA's mini-album titled after the trend; It features some 1980s- and 1990s-inspired styling and fashion- to add to the numerous other K-pop artists who incorporated Newtro idea into music videos, album covers, concept photos etc. MBC reached the stage of re-debuting the superstars of 1990s and 2000s- Rain, Lee Hyo-ri and Yoo Jae-suk as a mixed group. BTS released Hit single "Dynamite" recounting familiar scenes and fashion from the early 1970s, also releasing exclusive vinyl record and audio cassettes instead of the usual CD.^[9][17]
12. Retro styles goods:
    Releasing products or goods in retro style for example Daehan flower, a flower company which had been in the market for almost 80 years has expanded its market by selling Newtro style goods with their brand characters attracting customers in their 20s and 30s. Accessories used in 90s are getting popular like plastic bead key-chains, phone decorating stickers, board games, Polaroid cameras, traditional hair pins with modern designs all have been making a comeback.^[27][13]

Newtro streets[]

Newtro is not centered at particular store, product or activity alone. Remodeled, renovated, developed streets following the Newtro trend has been identified by Korean tourism organization. These places are not foreign to local Korean, and some with profound historical significance are also included in walk-in Korea programs, and tourist travel plans. On top of that alleyways being reconstructed with late 1900s appearance are also popular and are pulling in more visitors than ever.^[3][4]

Ikseon-dong Hanok village

Starbucks Coffee in Gyeongju

Gyeongju-Hanok and alley

Restaurant in the Gyochon Village, Gyeongju

Restaurants near by Gyeongju Historic Areas

Ikseon-dong, Seoul (Hangul 서울 익선동)

In the middle of Seoul, this area of narrow alleys lined with Hanoks (traditional Korean house) built in the 1920s showcase the beauty of traditional Korean architecture and is also known as Ikseon-dong Hanok village. The hanoks were renovated merging the traditional architecture with modern culture which serves as restaurants, pubs, cafes, and Korean-style bars. Many of these houses still have people living in them. Popular with young generation who love the fact that it's very convenient to walk and reach any cafe or coffee house in minutes. Places popular with tourist Ikseondong Ssal Sanghoe sells unique Hotteok, a traditional Korean dessert; Assibabgagan, a shop adorned with accessories and ornaments along with antique furniture attracts visitors to buy customized scented products; Uncle Videotown, a cafe provides coffee & snacks along with cinema.^[20][3][4]

Euljiro-dong, Seoul (Hangul 서울 을지로)

Euljiro is a road that connects Seoul City Hall to Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. This area of Seoul is home to a maze of alleys once dotted with iron foundries and print shops taking people back to 70s. However, this decades-old district started making changes since a few years ago. Keeping up with the times, this area earned the nickname "Hipji-ro" as the shops that may still look old and outdated from the outside showcase an interior that is nothing short of being hip and trendy. Furthermore, in the middle of the business district, the food street "Nogari Alley", selected as "Seoul future heritage" site in 2015, houses many restaurants and bars specializing in beer and nogari (dried young pollack). Apart from these Seun Sangga after renovation has become a popular spot for observation deck and taking pictures of Seoul city lights; Jan-a cafe and bar exemplifies the essence of Newtro. Jan in Korean means cup and they enables customers to select their vintage cup before ordering a drink. Euliro's Sweeon Arcade houses many coffee shops notably Tiger Coffee. Coffee Hanyakbang, is a traditional dabang style herbal medicine shop themed cafe dating back to 16th century court physician. Manseon hof, Uhwa Sikdang, Eulki Myun Oak are also popular with the rise of Newtro.^{[16][28][7][20][2][3][4]}

Gaehang-Ro, Incheon (Hangul 인천 대학로 거리)

Incheon, the nearest port city to Seoul, is home to the Newtro street Gaehang-ro. It is known for its vintage vibe. Old buildings were given new life and transformed into new establishments, such as a former otolaryngology clinic became a cafe, an old gynecology clinic remodeled into a lighting store, a tailor shop transformed into a gallery, and a 100-year-old house converted into a fried chicken restaurant. A representative retro restaurant Gaehangro Tongdak takes people back in time to show how chicken restaurants looked in the past, apart from this Ganhang Noodles and Browns hands a remodeled old hospital into a vintage style cafe.^[29][3][4]

Soje-dong, Daejeon (Hangul 대전 소제동)

Around 100 years ago, housing for employees of the Japanese Railroad Bureau was built in Soje-dong. Today, these houses have been renovated for new purposes such as restaurants. Popularity of Newtro has led to the revitalization of Soje-dong neighborhood, Railway station village behind Daejeon Station. In particular, some places were transformed into an Italian restaurant serving dishes made from local ingredients, a tea house with a bamboo forest, and a cafe that has successfully recreated the taste of coffee from the early 1900s, trendy cafes remodeled a 70 year old inn, shops adding new touch to old buildings. Cafes and restaurants remodeled old Hanoks with interiors popular with the youth in 20s and 30s yet able to stimulate nostalgia in middle ages population in 50s and 60s.^[3][4]

Choryang-dong, Busan (Hangul 부산 초량동)

Choryang-dong, which was a home to refugees of the Korean War, has welcomed many visitors after Busan's first modem building and Japanese style house were renovated into cafes, Visitors enjoy this area by walking through Ibagu-gil, a narrow street that stretches about 1.5 km across the old town. Now there also exists a 60 m long monorail with the 168 stairs which were built to climb the mid-slope of the mountains where the village is built by the refugees. Baekje Hospital, Busan's first western styled hospital built in 1920s rebirthed as cafe.^[3][4]

Hwangnidan-gil, Gyeongju (Hangul 경주 황리단길)

After serving as the capital city of the Silla Kingdom for nearly 1,000 years (57BCE-935CE), Hwangnidan-gil Street in Gyeongju is lined with numerous Hanok-style cafés and unique restaurants and bars. Among them is a rooftop cafe that offers visitors a view of the Hanok skyline and the large ancient tombs.^[3][4]

Donuimun Museum Village

Saemunan neighborhood, where Donuimun Museum Village stands today was designated for demolition but changed into development plan in order to preserve the neighborhood due to the historical value. The reconstructed buildings in the museum complex has exhibitions and activities ranging from Joseon Dynasty, Saemunan Theater (1960s and 1970s) -films showings classic movies from that era, accessible arcade games such as Tetris and Space Invaders, Seodaemun Photo studio with equipment enabling replication of Korean Empire 1970-1980s wedding shoots. Various stores are coming up on the museum grounds like snack shop, old style general store, book cafes, dabang styles coffee houses, LP bars, traditional tea house and many more.^[20][3][4]

Youth 1st Avenue, Seoul

It is a recreation of a street back in 60s and 70s. Stored adorned with fronts and signs styled as in the past, a place where artisans sell handcrafted goods under the city's innovation project. Antique stores, theatre, dabang, old-styled coffee house, Newtro themed arcades, music dabang with LP records can be found there.^[20]

Critical reception[]

With great emphasis on the attractions, more and more people end up consuming Newtro culture leading to concerns which are being overlooked due to economic gains. There are also criticisms of the Newtro phenomenon. Professor Kyun-Sik Jang of department of History at Chung-Ang University pointed out the dangers of consuming the cultures without historical awareness as a part of Newtro.^[30] Some are concerned that the area which become a Newtro Landmark only borrows tradition as a commercial concept, but loses its original identity.^[22][28]

References[]