Rolex Submariner
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Type | Automatic |
---|---|
Display | Analogue |
Introduced | 1953 |
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is a line of sports watches designed for diving and manufactured by Rolex, and are known for their resistance to water and corrosion.[1] The first Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair.[2] It was the first watch to be waterproof up to 100m.[3] The Rolex Submariner is considered "a classic among wristwatches",[1] manufactured by one of the most widely recognized luxury brands in the world.[4][5][6][7] Due to its huge popularity, there are many homage watches by well-established watchmakers, as well as illegal counterfeits. The Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex's Oyster Perpetual line.[8]
Today, the Submariner and Submariner Date models are equipped with Rolex Calibres 3230 and 3235, respectively, and feature luminescent hour markers, a unidirectional rotatable bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert, and a solid-link Oyster bracelet. They are water resistant up to 300 metres (1000 ft).[9]
Early models[]
The Submariner model went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. The assigned case reference number of this first Submariner was either 6204 or 6205. It is unclear which model came first; in any event, the two watches are nearly identical. Neither has the distinctive "cathedral" or "Mercedes" hands now so strongly associated with the Submariner line. Rather, both of these early submariners have straight "pencil" style hands. Few, if any, of the 6205 watches bear the name "Submariner" on the dial, a major distinction of modern Submariners. Some 6204 models have the Submariner logo printed below the center pinion, while others have the logo blacked out. It is believed that there were unexpected trademark issues connected with the name "Submariner" at the time the 6204 and 6205 were released, accounting for the inconsistent use of the Submariner mark on these early Submariners. Trademark irregularities notwithstanding, both the 6204 and 6205 are designated Submariner models in Rolex product literature.
In 1954, Rolex also produced a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners. This was the first Submariner (although not the first Rolex) to make use of the Mercedes hand set,[10] a feature of all subsequent Submariners. The 6200 also featured an oversized winding crown compared to the 6204 and 6205 models.[11] Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) models. These watches had "improved" movements (the cal. 1030), including a chronometer version in some 6536 models (designated 6536/1), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the Submariner logo and depth rating printed on the dial.
By the early 1960s, these models had given way to the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. All of these early Submariners used either gilt (6200, 6204, 6205) or gilt/silver gilt (6536, 6538) printing on glossy black dials.[12] Radium paint was used for the luminous indices.[13]
The next wave of Submariners, the 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer), marked a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. "Shoulders" were added to the crown side of the case to provide protection for the winding/setting mechanism. In early watches—until 1964 or so—these shoulders were pyramid-shaped and ended in points. Later watches were manufactured with rounded shoulders. The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown, which thereafter became a standard feature of the Submariner line. In the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the luminous indices, switching to safer tritium-infused paint.
In 1965–1966, Rolex discontinued use of gilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing. A final important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s: the 1680 was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date function, marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist tool watch to mass market fashion accessory. While many professional and military divers used—and continue to use—Submariners in the most demanding underwater environments, by the late 1960s, the watch had undeniably become a mass market product as well.
Later models[]
Throughout the next 40 years, the Submariner was updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes. In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner-Date anniversary edition (16610 LV), with distinguishing features such as the green bezel and Maxi dial; its production ended in 2010 with the final watches being issued with the new "random" serial number.[14] In 2008, a new case from the GMT II was introduced for the Submariner-Date, featuring heavier lugs and crownguard; a bezel and updated clasp featuring a quick adjust function were also added.[15] The 14060M did not have these modifications.
A new Submariner-Date, model 116613 (not to be confused with model 16613), based on the "supercase" used in the GMT Master II, was presented at the 2008 Basel show. The first Submariner-Date models offered were a yellow gold with blue face and bezel and a new white gold with blue face and bezel. The stainless steel case model was presented at the 2010 Basel show. Its reference is 116610.
At the 2012 BaselWorld watch show, an updated Submariner ref 114060 was introduced. It replaced the 14060M, with newer "Maxi Case" with "Chromalight" hour markers, ceramic bezel, blue Parachrom hairspring and bracelet with "Glidelock" extension system.[16]
The Rolex Submariner watch case has a diameter of 40.0 mm (1.57 in) mm and a thickness of 13.0 mm (0.51 in), and the case and bracelet weigh 155 g (5.5 oz).[17]
At the year 2020 Rolex has introduced a new watch case. New case has a 41.0 mm diameter.[18]
Also in the same year, two new movements are available for new "41 mm" models. For No - Date model is 3230 and for date models, the caliber is called 3235. Both are COSC certified.[19]
Usage[]
From 1970 onwards, the French diving company COMEX received a special version of Rolex Submariner 5513 featuring a helium release valve for their saturation divers.[20][21] This version of the Submariner was based on the Sea Dweller and not the other way around as often claimed. In 1974, the first double-signed dials featuring the Comex logo were introduced followed by changing the reference number to 5514, thus creating an exclusive reference for Comex. These watches were never available to the public.
Current models[]
Model number | Model | Material | Bezel | Movement | Production | USD MSRP |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
126610LN | Submariner Date 41 mm | Steel | Black | 3235
COSC |
2020- | $9,150 |
124060 | Submariner 41 mm | Steel | Black | 3230
COSC |
2020- | $8,100 |
126610LV | Submariner Date 41 mm | Steel | Green | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $9,550 |
126613LB | Submariner Date 41 mm | Steel and Yellow Gold | Blue | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $14,300 |
126613LN | Submariner Date 41 mm | Steel and Yellow Gold | Black | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $14,300 |
126618LB | Submariner Date 41 mm | Yellow Gold | Blue | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $36,950 |
126618LN | Submariner Date 41 mm | Yellow Gold | Black | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $36,950 |
126619LB | Submariner Date 41 mm | White Gold | Blue | 3235 COSC | 2020– | $39,650 |
All models feature 300-meter (1000 feet) water resistance.
Discontinued models[]
Model number | In production | Note |
---|---|---|
6200 | 1955 | |
6204 | 1953 | |
6205 | 1953–1957 | |
6536 | 1954–1958 | |
6536/1 | 1955–1961 | |
A/6538 | 1957 | |
6538 | 1958-1961 | |
5508 | 1958–1965 | |
5510 | 1959 | |
5512 | 1959–1978 | |
5513 | 1962–1990 | |
5513/17 | 1972–1978 | |
5514 | 1972–1978 | |
5517 | 1972–1978 | |
1680 | 1966–1981 | |
16800 | 1977–1987 | |
168000 | 1987 | |
16610 | 1988–2010 | |
14060 | 1990–2002 | |
14060M | 2002–2012 | Certified chronometer 2007–2012 |
16610LV | 2003–2010 | 50th anniversary model |
114060 | 2012–2020 | |
116610LN | 2010 - 2020 | |
116610LV | 2010 - 2020 | |
116619LB | 2008 - 2020 |
Submariner spinoff[]
The Rolex Sea-Dweller, developed in 1967 but introduced to the general public in 1971, is a heavier-duty steel version of the Submariner, with a thicker case and crystal, as well as a date feature, sans cyclops magnifier. The Sea-Dweller incorporates a helium escape valve for use when decompressing and helium is in the gas mixture of a pressurized habitat; this model (ref 16600) has a guaranteed waterproof depth of 1,220 metres (4,000 ft).
The Sea-Dweller was superseded by the DeepSea Sea-Dweller in late 2008,[22] with the last 16600 Sea-Dwellers produced running into the V-series (late 2008). The DeepSea features a 44 mm case that guarantees a depth of 3,900 metres (12,800 ft) (ref. 116660).[23]
Model information and characteristics[]
- Waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres (1000 ft). Earlier models were thinner and resistant to 200 metres (660 ft).
- Triplock system waterproof crown, featuring a triple gasket system, identified by three dots on the crown. Screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case to provide extra waterproof protection for underwater diving.
- Case made from solid block of 904L stainless steel, a corrosion-resistant alloy, or gold. The golds (white or yellow) are made in Rolex's own foundry.
- Unidirectional bezel that enables a diver to memorize and follow immersion time. As the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "longer" in case of accidental bezel movement, averting the danger of spending too much time underwater.
- Perpetual rotor in the self-winding wristwatch mechanism, allowing the watch to run continuously, as every slight movement of the wrist winds the movement. The energy generated is stored in the mainspring, allowing the watch to continue to function with no movement for several days. Each movement is a Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC.
- Rolex calendar mechanism that advances to the next date at midnight in a single short rotation.
- Removable hologram on the caseback, featured until 2007.
- Recent models of the Submariner and Submariner-Date (late 2008) feature a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel", also known as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange" (English).[24] It also contains a minuscule laser-etched Rolex Crown at the bottom of the crystal in line with 6 o'clock mark.
James Bond[]
The Rolex Submariner has appeared in a number of James Bond movies. Sean Connery wore a reference 6538 in his first four movies. In Dr. No.[25] and From Russia with Love, the watch was used with a leather strap, favored by real life spy, Matt West while in Goldfinger and Thunderball the strap had been swapped for an undersized NATO type nylon band (The Ministry of Defence "G10" strap not being commissioned until 1973, and then only in admiralty grey without stripes). George Lazenby wore a reference 5513 with an oyster bracelet in parts of On Her Majesty's Secret Service,[26] as did Roger Moore in his first two movies Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun, but with a 7206 "riveted"' bracelet. Timothy Dalton is so far the last Bond actor to wear a Rolex in the Bond franchise. He is seen wearing a Submariner with a date window in his last film Licence to Kill. The watch is arguably a 16800 or 168000, as the movie was shot in the summer of 1988. From GoldenEye onwards, James Bond wears Omega Seamasters.[27][28][29][30]
Related pages[]
- Rolex Daytona
- Rolex Day-Date
- Rolex Datejust
- Rolex GMT Master II
- Rolex Milgauss
- Rolex Sea Dweller
- Rolex Yacht-Master
References[]
- ^ a b GQ magazine GQ: How to Buy a Watch The Classics Buy any one of these signature watches and you can’t go wrong 1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Unveiled in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch water-resistant to 330 feet. Its "combination of unparalleled elegance and spy-friendly versatility" appealed to Sean Connery’s James Bond and none other than Che Guevara.
- ^ "The History of an Icon – The Rolex Submariner - Chrono24 Magazine". www.chrono24.com. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Rolex History of Firsts". The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo. 3 January 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ CNN Money Quote: That explains why big recognizable brands like Cartier, Patek Philippe and Rolex rule. They can be thought of, in fact, as portable status symbols, owing to their tradition of quality workmanship.
- ^ "China: Breaking out the largest logos". Time Magazine. 21 September 2007. Archived from the original on 23 October 2007.
- ^ New York Times Magazine quote: ...became as much a status symbol as a silver Porsche or a gold-faced Rolex watch.
- ^ Guardian UK: What is it with men and their watches? quote: It used to be so simple – rich men adorned themselves with that ultimate macho status symbol the Rolex, while the less well-to-do strapped on Timex or Casio.
- ^ "The Rolex Submariner". Rolex. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Discover more on Rolex.com". Rolex. Retrieved 23 July 2019.
- ^ "6 Quick Facts About the Rolex Submariner 6200". Bob's Watches. 28 January 2018. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ March 02, HODINKEE; 2011. "A Submariner Ref 6200: What's The Deal With These Big Crowns, Anyway?". HODINKEE. Retrieved 1 August 2021.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
- ^ "What's So Special About a Rolex Submariner? Glad You Asked". www.bloomberg.com. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Rolex Lume (Luminous materials) Complete guide". Millenary Watches. 29 February 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Rolex - A "new old stock" stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, accompanied by original Rolex guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags, 2003 | Game Changers New York Monday, December 9, 2019 Lot 3". Phillips. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "Rolex Cerachrom Bezel: A Closer Look". The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo. 11 September 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ Hodinkee (21 February 2010). "IN-DEPTH: The New Rolex Submariner No-Date Reference 114060 (Live Pics, Specs, Pricing, Video) — HODINKEE – Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories". Hodinkee. Archived from the original on 30 November 2012. Retrieved 10 December 2012.
- ^ Battle Of Three Rolex Divers
- ^ "Rolex Submariner Guide For Collectors | WatchBox". www.thewatchbox.com. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "2020 Rolex Submariner 124060 41mm No-Date - Review, Live Pics, Price". Monochrome Watches. 31 August 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "COMEX ROLEX". www.diving-watch.net. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ "A QUICK DIVE INTO THE ROLEX-COMEX RELATIONSHIP - Montres Publiques - The vintage watch magazine". Montres Publiques. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
- ^ November 09, Louis Westphalen; 2017. "Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller". HODINKEE. Retrieved 1 August 2021.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
- ^ "OYSTER PERPETUAL-SEA-DWELLER - ROLEX DEEPSEA" (PDF).
- ^ montresuisses.blogspot.com
- ^ Grant, Donald (29 June 2006). "Bonding with time". Retrieved 8 May 2014.
- ^ Brown, Craig (2012). Hello Goodbye Hello: A Circle of 101 Remarkable Meetings. Simon and Schuster. p. 267. ISBN 9781451684520.
- ^ James Bond omegawatches.com
- ^ All Omega Seamaster James Bond Watches - An Overview Fratello Watches, 17 August 2015
- ^ James Bond’s Watches: The Complete Movie Timeline WatchTime, 5 November 2018
- ^ A concise history of James Bond watches REBECCA DOULTON, 13 July 2017
External links[]
- Rolex watches
- Products introduced in 1953