Mixed climbing

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Rich Purnell mixed-climbing a route rated M9.
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Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools.[1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built-in crampons. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" unto itself.

Terrain[]

The terrain that is climbed on is diverse and consists of rock, turf, snow, and ice in varying amounts. Such terrain is typically encountered in the winter season or on high icy mountains.

Grading[]

Grading of mixed terrain climbs roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. The scale typically starts at M4 and subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are often subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the WI system. Comparing these is rough and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is that it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.

Rating YDS WI Notes[3][4]
M1 5.5 Usually doesn't require tools (except for crampons)
M2 5.6
M3 5.7
M4 5.8 WI4 Slabby to vertical, some technical dry-tooling.
M5 5.9 WI5 Some sustained vertical dry tooling.
M6 5.10 WI6 Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.
M7 5.11 WI7 Overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, less than 10 metres (33 ft) of "hard" climbing.
M8 5.11+ Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.
M9 5.12 Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.
M10 5.12 At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.
M11 5.13 A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.
M12 5.14 M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

Techniques[]

Climbers participating in mixed climbing use techniques from both ice climbing and rock climbing. The nature of the mixed terrain and the demands that it places on climbers have also led to the development of specialist skills, most notably dry tooling.

Equipment[]

A climber chooses their equipment based on the exact conditions and terrain that will be encountered as well as their climbing style and personal preferences. Mixed terrain climbing equipment typically includes both rock and ice climbing equipment. Specialist equipment has also been developed.

References[]

  1. ^ Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.
  2. ^ Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (September 2003). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9.
  3. ^ "Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2020-02-20.
  4. ^ "Mixed Climbing Grades: Everything You Need to Know". ascentionism.com. Ascentionism.


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