List of climbers and mountaineers

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This list of climbers and mountaineers is a list of people notable for the activities of mountaineering, rock climbing (including bouldering) and ice climbing.

A[]

Christian Almer
Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi
  • Vitaly Abalakov (1906–1992) Russia, climbed Lenin Peak (1934) and Khan Tengri (1936)
  • Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907–1948) Russia, climbed Communism Peak (1933)
  • Premlata Agarwal (born 1963) India, first Indian woman to complete all Seven Summits
  • H. P. S. Ahluwalia (fl. 1965) India, climbed Mount Everest in 1965
  • Pierre Allain (1904–2000) France, championed bouldering at Fontainebleau, and inventor of rubber rock-climbing shoes
  • Christian Almer (1826–1898) Switzerland, numerous first ascents, including Eiger
  • Ashraf Aman (born 1943) Pakistan, first Pakistani ascent of K2
  • Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzi (1873–1933) Italy, first ascent of Mount Saint Elias of the Rwenzori Mountains
  • Pat Ament (born 1946) US, rock climber and pioneer boulderer
  • Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912) Switzerland, guide, with numerous first ascents, including new routes on Mont Blanc
  • Conrad Anker (born 1963) US, discovered Mallory's body on Everest in 1999
  • Tyler Armstrong (born 2004) US, in 2013, at age 9, the youngest to climb Aconcagua
  • Melissa Arnot (born 1983) US, five ascents of Everest
  • Bernd Arnold (born 1947) Germany, more than 900 first ascents in Saxon Switzerland
  • Armando Aste (born 1926) Italy, first Italian ascent of Eiger north face
  • Peter Athans (born 1957) US, seven ascents of Mount Everest
  • Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973) Austria, mountaineer and companion of Heinrich Harrer (as described in Seven Years in Tibet)
  • Abdul Jabbar Bhatti, Pakistani mountaineer and the former military officer of the Pakistan Army[1]

B[]

Jacques Balmat
Adam Bielecki
Arlene Blum
David Breashears
Alexander Burgener
  • Samina Baig - Gilgit-Baltistan, 3rd Pakistani and only Pakistani woman to climb Mount Everest
  • John Bachar (1957–2009) US, noted for climbs in Yosemite National Park and free soloing
  • John Ball (1818–1889) Ireland, naturalist and climber, Alps guidebooks author, first president of Alpine Club in 1857
  • Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Duchy of Savoy, Chamonix-based guide, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
  • George Band (1929–2011) UK, Everest expedition (1953), first ascent on 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
  • Kinga Baranowska (born 1975), Poland, first Polish woman to have climbed Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Kangchenjunga
  • Anna Barańska (born 1976) Poland, first Polish woman on the North Face of Mount Everest
  • Henry Barber (born 1953) US, leading US rock climber in the 1970s
  • Andrzej Bargiel Current record holder in speed to get Snow Leopard award and current record holder Elbrus Race
  • Lilliane and Maurice Barrard (1948–1986 and 1941?–1986 respectively) France, Gasherbrum II (1982), Nanga Parbat (1984, first female ascent), both killed on K2
  • Charles Barrington (1834–1901) UK, first ascent Eiger (1858)
  • Richard Bass (born 1929) US, businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete Seven Summits (1985)
  • Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) US, first ascent Mount Lucania (1937), on US attempts on K2 (1938 and 1953)
  • Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) UK, fourth ascent Mont Blanc (1787)
  • Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (1923-2017) Germany/US, many first ascents in US and Canada
  • Bentley Beetham (1886–1963) UK, on 1924 Everest expedition; pioneer of Borrowdale (Lake District) rock climbing
  • George Irving Bell (1926–2000) US, physicist, biologist and mountaineer, first ascent Masherbrum (1960), rescued on K2 (1953)
  • Gertrude Bell (1868–1926) UK, many ascents in Alps and further afield
  • Maciej Berbeka (1954–2013) first winter ascents of eight-thousanders: Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak
  • Josune Bereziartu (born 1972) Basque (Spain), rock climber; first female climber in grade 9a/5.14d
  • Patrick Berhault (1957–2004) France, many ascents in the Alps.
  • Didier Berthod Switzerland, featured in First Ascent
  • Adam Bielecki (born 1983) first winter ascents of eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak
  • John Biggar (born 1964) Scottish mountaineer who has made various first ascents in the Andes
  • Isabella Bird (1831–1904) UK, traveller, writer and natural historian
  • Barry Blanchard (born 1959) Canada, mountain guide; first ascents in the Saint Elias range of Alaska
  • Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) US, developed Buttermilk bouldering area
  • Karl Blodig (1859–1956) Austria, mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to climb all 4,000 metres peaks in the Alps
  • Arlene Blum (born 1945) US, first US female attempt on Everest, led first all-woman ascent of Annapurna
  • Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK, Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979, died on Everest with Joe Tasker
  • Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau (1857–1923) France, first ascent La Meije with father and son Pierre Gaspard (1877)
  • Jean-Marc Boivin (1951–1990) France, exponent of extreme ascents and descents
  • Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) Italy, mountaineer and writer, solo new routes on Aiguille du Dru and Matterhorn
  • Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) UK, first ascent Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3), ascent of Everest (1985)
  • Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK, geologist and mountaineer, president of Alpine Club
  • Jack Borgenicht (1911-2005), USA, garment manufacturer, philanthropist, oldest person to climb Mount Rainier at age 81
  • Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland, climber and author of Always a Little Further
  • Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) US, 6 8,000m summits, including Everest twice, died on Genyen Peak
  • Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia, climbed seven 8,000 m peaks without supplemental oxygen, died on Annapurna 1997
  • Loulou Boulaz (1908–1991) Switzerland, several first ascents and first female ascents in the Alps
  • Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956) UK, Cho Oyu (1952), British Everest expeditions (1951, 1952 and 1953), South Summit of Everest (1953), died on the Jägihorn
  • Stipe Božić (born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia, completed Seven Summits, second European to climb Everest twice
  • Lydia Bradey (born 1961) New Zealand, first woman to climb Mt Everest without oxygen 1988
  • Samuel Brawand (1898–2001) Switzerland, politician and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
  • David Breashears (born 1956) US, Everest twice, directed IMAX film Everest
  • Meta Brevoort (1825–1876) US, alpinist of Victorian period, aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge
  • Russell Brice (born 1952) New Zealand, record for fastest single solo ascent without oxygen of Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam
  • Jim Bridwell (1944–2018) US, rock climber, first one-day ascent of Nose of El Capitan in 1975
  • David Brower (1912–2000) US, Executive Director of Sierra Club and Yosemite climber
  • Joe Brown (1930-2020) UK, rock climber, first ascent Aiguille de Blaitière west face, Kanchenjunga (1955), Mustagh Tower
  • Katie Brown (born 1981) US, won 1995 X Games and climbing Junior World Cup
  • Geoffrey Bruce (1896–1972) UK, in 1922 reached 8,300 metres (27,300 ft) on Everest (then a world record) on his first mountain climb.
  • Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria, first ascent Nanga Parbat (1953) and Broad Peak (1957), died on Chogolisa
  • Alexander Burgener (1845–1910) Switzerland, first ascent Matterhorn Zmuttgrat, Grands Charmoz, Aiguille du Grépon, Lenzspitze, Grand Dru
  • Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) France, climbed Mont Ventoux for the view, before Petrarch

C[]

Yvon Chouinard
Chhurim
Johann Coaz
Emilio Comici
Michel Croz
  • Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) US, rock climber, free climbed the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
  • Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK, ascents in Alps, Caucasus and Africa
  • Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) France, scientist and Pyrenean pioneer
  • Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia, leading technical rock climber of the 1980s
  • Carlos Carsolio (born 1962) Mexico, 14 8,000m summits (1985–1996)
  • Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) Italy, first ascent Piz Badile north-east face (1937); Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur (1938); Mount McKinley Cassin Ridge (1961)
  • Cristina Castagna (1977–2009) Italy, first Italian female ascent Makalu
  • Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz (1942–1978) Britain, first ascent Gasherbrum III
  • Ludwik Chałubiński (1860–1933) Poland, first ascent Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki
  • Armand Charlet (1900–1975) France, many first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
  • Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918) UK, first ascents in Alps, first winter ascent Mont Blanc (1876)
  • Maxime Chaya (born 1961) Lebanon, Everest (2006), Seven Summits and Three Poles Challenge
  • Chhurim (born 1984) Nepal, first woman to reach Everest summit twice in a week
  • Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden, first Swedish female ascent Everest (1999)
  • Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) US, pioneer of Yosemite climbing, founder of Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia
  • Leszek Cichy (born 1951) Poland, first winter ascent Everest
  • John Clarke (1945–2003) Canada, explorer and wilderness educator, over 600 first ascents in Coast Range of British Columbia
  • Vern Clevenger (born 1955) US, first ascent Cholatse (1982), numerous first routes ascents in Sierra Nevada
  • Ian Clough (1939–1970) UK, first ascent Am Buachaille (1968), first UK ascent Eiger north face (1962), died on Annapurna
  • Norman Clyde (1886–1972) US, pioneer of California's Sierra Nevada[2]
  • Johann Coaz (1822–1918) Switzerland, first ascent of Piz Bernina
  • J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK, first ascent Ben Nevis Tower Ridge, Nanga Parbat expedition (1895)
  • Emilio Comici (1901–1940) Italy, first ascent Cima Grande di Lavaredo north face (1933) with Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai, died in accident in Val Gardena
  • Achille Compagnoni (born 1914) Italy, first ascent K2 (1954) with Lino Lacedelli
  • Kyra Condie (born 1996) US, member of the 2020 US Olympic climbing team
  • Herb and Jan Conn (Herb: 1921–2012) US, early pioneers of climbing in areas like Carderock in Maryland, Seneca Rocks in West Virginia, and Black Hills of South Dakota
  • William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK, surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps)
  • Kenton Cool (born 1973) UK, ten-time Everest summiter
  • W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) US, 1,700 expeditions in Alps, Alpine historian
  • Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden, adventurer and climber
  • Henri Cordier (1856–1877) France, first ascents Aiguille du Plat de la Selle, Les Droites (east summit) (1876) died in accident on Le Plaret
  • Dr Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France, first ascent French Direct on Norway's Troll Wall (1967), solo ascent The Nose, Yosemite (1973), first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
  • Jean Couzy (1923–1958) France, first ascent Makalu with Terray on the 1955 French Makalu expedition
  • Lucy Creamer (born 1971) British champion climber
  • Peter Croft (born 1958) Canada, many hard first ascents in the Sierra Nevada
  • Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) UK, occultist, writer, and rock climber, led early expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga
  • Michel Croz (1830–1865) France, numerous first ascents, died on descent after first ascent of Matterhorn
  • John Cunningham (1927–1980) Scotland, pioneered new techniques of ice climbing
  • Bronisław Czech (1908–1944) Poland, a mountain rescue pioneer in the Tatra Mountains
  • Anna Czerwińska (born 1949) Poland, oldest female ascent Everest (at the time, age 50), first Polish female Seven Summits
  • Andrzej Czok (1948–1986), Poland first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri and first ascent of Mount Everest through South Pillar

D[]

Clinton Thomas Dent
Kurt Diemberger
  • Kalpana Dash (born 1966) India, first from Odisha, India to climb Mount Everest (2008)
  • Sophia Danenberg (born 1972) US, first African American and first black woman to summit Mount Everest
  • Steph Davis (born 1973) US, second female one-day free climb El Capitan
  • Johnny Dawes (born 1964) UK, rock climber, introduced two new grades in British grading system
  • José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela, five 8,000m summits (1994–2006), died on Nanga Parbat
  • Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) UK, Caucasus, Alps, first ascent Lenzspitze (1870), Aiguille du Dru (1878)
  • Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy, geologist and mountaineer, leader of K2 first-ascent expeditionbonatt (1954)
  • Catherine Destivelle (born 1960) France, first woman to solo the Eiger North Face in winter
  • Kurt Diemberger (born 1932) Austria, first ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Dhaulagiri (1960), climbed K2 (1986 K2 disaster)
  • Sasha DiGiulian (born 1992) US, first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom, Eiger
  • Jan Długosz mountaineer
  • Jim Donini (1943) US, first ascent of Torre Egger, noted mountaineer
  • Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway, climbed Great Trango Tower east face (1984), died during descent
  • Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865) Scotland, died on descent after first ascent of Matterhorn
  • Lonnie Dupre (born 1961) US, Solo climb of Denali in winter
  • Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Germany, rock climber killed in World War I
  • Hayatullah Khan Durrani (born 1962) Pakistan, mountaineer and rock climber
  • Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Germany/Switzerland, Himalayan explorer, led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga (1930, 1931)[3]

E[]

  • James Eccles (1838–1915) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
  • Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) UK, alpinist, rock climber and boulderer
  • Patrick Edlinger (1960–2012) France, award-winning rock climber, featured in several rock climbing movies
  • Angela Eiter (born 1986), Austria, first woman in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route (La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain)
  • Zsolt Erőss (1968–2013) Hungary, ten eight-thousanders, two with prosthetic leg, died on descent from Kangchenjunga summit
  • Susan Ershler (born 1956) US, first married couple to climb the Seven Summits, together (with Phil Ershler)[4]
  • Leila Esfandyari (1970–2011) Iran, first Iranian woman to climb Nanga Parbat; died on Gasherbrum II
  • Jens Esmark (1763–1839) Norway, first ascent Snøhetta (1798) and Mount Gaustatoppen, led first expedition to Bitihorn
  • Nick Estcourt (1942–1978) UK, killed on K2 by avalanche
  • Charles Evans (1918–1995) UK, Alps, Wales, leader of Kangchenjunga first ascent 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
  • John Ewbank (born 1948) Australia, pioneer of Australian rock climbing, invented Australian (Ewbank) grading system

F[]

Douglas Freshfield
Tom Frost
  • Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia, first female ascent Mount Cook
  • Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK, one of the first professional rock climbers
  • Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia, five 8,000ers, killed in crevasse fall on Manaslu
  • Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany, pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge
  • Darby Field (1610–1649) Ireland?, first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642)
  • George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia, reached 8,300 m on 1922 Everest expedition; Dent d'Hérens north face
  • Scott Fischer (1955–1996) US, Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994; died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
  • Hans Florine (born 1964) US, speed climber, ascent The Nose El Capitan (2012) in 2:36:45
  • James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK, first British ascent Jungfrau
  • Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) US, free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer
  • Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK, explorer and mountaineer, winner of Piolet D'Or (2003)[5]
  • Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK, Alps, Scotland, Himalayas, Pyrenees
  • Tom Frost US, rock climber, first ascents of big walls in Yosemite Valley
  • Fritiof Fryxell (1900-1986) US, geologist and park ranger, first ascents in the Teton Range
  • Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) China, first ascent Everest north face, first ascent Shishapangma

G[]

Conrad Gessner
John Gill
Stefan Glowacz
Paul Güssfeldt
  • Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
  • Will Gadd (born 1967) Canada, various hard mixed routes including the first M12
  • Ryszard Gajewski
  • Lene Gammelgaard Denmark, author of Climbing High, first female Scandinavian ascent of Everest
  • João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal, first Portuguese to climb Everest and tenth to climb all 8,000m summits (1993–2010)
  • Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/US, Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre traverse
  • Pierre Gaspard (1834–1915) France, first ascent La Meije with his son and Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau
  • Chanda Gayen (1979–2014) India, first woman from West Bengal to climb Everest, killed on Kanchenjunga western side
  • Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal, 12 Everest ascents
  • Lester Germer (1896–1971) US, physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber
  • Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland, naturalist and early mountaineer in the Alps
  • Azim Gheychisaz (born 1981) Iranian mountain climber who climebed all 14 Eight-thousanders
  • John Gill (born 1937) US, father of modern bouldering, introduced chalk and modern dynamics in the 1950s
  • Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany, professional rock climber
  • Alessandro Gogna (born 1946) Italy, mountaineer, adventurer and mountain guide from
  • Dan Goodwin (born 1955) US, rock/building climber, climbed World Trade Center, Sears Tower, John Hancock Center and CN Tower
  • Dave Graham (born 1981) US, rock climber and boulderer
  • Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway, climber and extreme skier, first ski descent Everest north face (2006)
  • Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium, rock and sport climber and mountaineer
  • William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand, Selkirks
  • Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria, numerous first ascents in the 19th century
  • Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia, ascents of Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, K2 and Everest without bottled oxygen
  • Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, at age 23, was the youngest Briton to summit Mount Everest
  • Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany, rock climber and boulderer, first 5.14d - Action Directe (1991)
  • Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany, first ascent Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen, first European attempt on Aconcagua (1883)
  • Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland, all 8,000m summits (1993–2009)
  • Jesse Guthrie one of the pioneers of sport climbing in the US

H[]

Artur Hajzer
Heinrich Harrer
Edmund Hillary
  • Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria, first ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner
  • Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK, died on first ascent Matterhorn (1865)
  • Dave Hahn - US, 11 Everest ascents, 26 Vinson Massif ascents, 19 Denali ascents
  • Artur Hajzer (1962–2013) Poland, first winter ascent of Annapurna with Jerzy Kukuczka (1987)
  • Lincoln Hall (1956–2012) Australia, rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006)
  • Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand, Seven Summits in seven months, died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
  • Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK, prominent climber of the 1940s
  • Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) first ascent El Capitan
  • Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK, first female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit
  • John Harlin (1934–1966) US, direct route pioneer, killed on Eiger north face
  • Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria, first ascent Eiger north face (1938) and Carstensz Pyramid (1962), author of Seven Years in Tibet
  • Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK, Seven Summits, first female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998), killed on Dhaulagiri
  • Dougal Haston (1940–1977) Scotland, first ascent Annapurna south face (1970), killed in avalanche near Leysin
  • Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK, pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author
  • Margo Hayes (born 1998), US, first woman to climb 5.15a (La Rambla, Spain)
  • Andreas Heckmair (1906–2005) Germany, first ascent Eiger north face (1938)
  • Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich
  • Gary Hemming (1934–1969) US, first ascent south face Aiguille du Fou
  • Siegfried Herford (1891–1916) UK, first ascent Scafell Central Buttress (1914)
  • Derek Hersey (1956–1993) UK, many free solo routes in the US
  • Maurice Herzog (1919–2012) France, led 1950 French Annapurna expedition (first 8,000m peak climbed)
  • Tom Higgins (born 1944) US, first and first free ascents in US, also in France outside Chamonix[6]
  • Lynn Hill (born 1961) US, first free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993)
  • Sandy Hill (born 1955) US, Seven Summits
  • Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand, first ascent Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay
  • Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK, first Briton to climb all 8,000m summits (claim is disputed)[7]
  • Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914–1936) Germany, attempted Eiger north face in 1936 with Toni Kurz, both died during the retreat
  • Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan, World Champion 1998, 2000
  • Marty Hoey (1951–1982) US, died on Everest
  • Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) US, surveyor and mountaineer, several first ascents in Sierra Nevada
  • Jim Holloway (born 1954) US, perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels
  • Alex Honnold (born 1985) US, free solo of Half Dome northwest face (2008), Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park (2008), and Freerider on El Capitan (2017)
  • Tom Hornbein (born 1930) US, first ascent Everest west ridge (1963)
  • Steve House (born 1970) US, solo ascent K7 (2004), first ascent Nanga Parbat Rupal face (2005)
  • Charles Houston (born 1913) US, first ascent Mount Foraker (1934), attempts on K2 in 1938, 1953
  • Alexander and Thomas Huber (born 1968 and 1966 respectively) Germany, free ascents Yosemite, speed record El Capitan
  • Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK, first ascent Monte Rosa (1855), Matterhorn (1865), died on descent of Matterhorn
  • Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia, Piolet d'Or (1996) for new route Ama Dablam, solo Dhaulagiri south wall
  • Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany, Chimborazo
  • John Hunt (1910–1998) UK, leader, 1953 Everest expedition

I[]

  • Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) France, filmed first French expedition in Himalaya Karakoram (1936) and 1950 French Annapurna expedition
  • Dimitar Ilievski (1953–1989) Macedonia, first Macedonian to climb Everest, died on the way back
  • Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) Switzerland, guide, 371 Matterhorn ascents, the last at 90 years old
  • Alberto Iñurrategi (born 1968) Basque, Spain, youngest person to climb all eight-thousanders (33 years old) (4th without supplemental oxygen)
  • Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) UK, died on Everest with George Mallory (1924)
  • R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969) UK, Alpine pedagogue and author

J[]

Margaret Jackson
  • John Jackson (1921–2005) UK, first ascent of Jackson's Route
  • Margaret Jackson (1843–1906) UK, pioneer female mountaineer in the Alps
  • Nicolas Jaeger (1946–1980) France, first French ascent of Mount Everest
  • Tim Jarvis (born 1966) Australia/UK, re-created Shackleton's South Georgia traverse
  • Zbigniew Jaworowski
  • Narendra Dhar Jayal a.k.a. 'Nandu' Jayal (died 1958) India, first Director of Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering
  • Ganesh Jena (born 1972) India, first male from Odisha, India to climb Mount Everest
  • Jimmy Jewell (1953–1987) UK, prolific rock-climbing soloist
  • Konstanty Jodko-Narkiewicz
  • Alex Johnson (born 1989) US, five-time United States national champion and two-time Bouldering World Cup gold medalist
  • Raghav Joneja (born 1997) India, youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest
  • Kevin Jorgeson (born 1984) US, first free climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, US

K[]

Dora Keen
Jerzy Kukuczka
  • Meherban Karim(1979-2008) Pakistani, Gasherbrum II (2003), Nanga Parbat (2005), K2 (2008) (all three without supplementary oxygen) died on K-2 during descent.
  • Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada, over 50 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies, amongst which was Mount Robson
  • Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria, first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
  • Bob Kamps (1931–2005) US, pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 and 5.11 routes in America
  • Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India, Himalayan veteran
  • Mieczysław Karłowicz
  • Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria, first ascent of Eiger north face
  • Peter Kaufmann (1858–1924) Switzerland, guide in Alps and Canadian Rockies
  • Ron Kauk (born 1957) US, rock climber, many first ascents in Yosemite, stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies
  • Robert Kayen (born 1959) US, rock climber, professor, scientist, first solo ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan
  • Dora Keen (1871–1963) US, 8 ascents of first-class peaks in the Alps, member of Royal Geographical Society, 1914
  • Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK, rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club
  • E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK, first ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul
  • Mikhail Khergiani (1932-1969), Svan mountaineer of Soviet Georgia, known as the Tiger of the Rocks
  • Clarence King (1842–1901) US, geologist and climber, first director of USGS, first ascent Mount Tyndall
  • Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK, rock and ice climber, motivational speaker
  • Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK, rock climber and alpinist
  • Zygmunt Klemensiewicz
  • Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland, guide, prolific first ascentionist in Bernina Range and Bregaglia
  • M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India, leader of the Indian Everest expedition (1965)
  • Layton Kor (born 1938) US, rock climber and mountaineer, author of Beyond the Vertical
  • Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan, sport climber and boulderer
  • Jon Krakauer (born 1954) US, author and mountaineer, summited Everest (1996), wrote Eiger Dreams, Into The Wild and Into Thin Air
  • Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria, pioneering rock climber and one of fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation
  • Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden, rode bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without oxygen and rode home (1996)
  • Moriz von Kuffner (1854–1939) Austria, a number of first ascents, including Eiger Northeast Face and Kuffner Ridge Mount Maudit
  • Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia, considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps
  • Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) Poland, second man to climb all 8,000m peaks (9 new route), ascent in the winter four eight-thousanders, the only man in the world to ascent in one winter two eight-thousanders
  • Władysław Kulczyński
  • Colonel Narendra Kumar (born 1933) India, Siachen Glacier and Himalayan veteran
  • Jaan Künnap (born 1948) Estonia, mountaineer and photographer
  • Janusz Kurczab
  • Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains
  • Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany, attempted Eiger north face in 1936, died during the retreat

L[]

  • Constantin Lăcătușu (born 1961) Romania
  • Lino Lacedelli (born 1925) Italy, first ascent K2 (1954) with Achille Compagnoni
  • Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) France, first ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog; died skiing in Chamonix
  • Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) France, 11 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; died on Makalu
  • David Lama (1990–2019) Austria, climber and alpinist, notable for first free ascent of Cerro Torre
  • Raymond Lambert (1914–1997) Switzerland, reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition
  • Samantha Larson (born 1988) US, youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 in 2007
  • Philip Ling (fl. 2006) Australia, notable for one of the highest rescues, of two injured Sherpas on Mt. Pumori (7167m), Nepal
  • Pete Livesey (1943–1998) UK, influential rock climber in the 1970s
  • John Long (born 1953) US, rock climber and writer; author of How to Rock Climb series
  • Erhard Loretan (1959–2011) Switzerland, 14 8,000m-plus summits (1982–1995)
  • Alex Lowe (1958–1999) US, climbed Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven in Antarctica and Sail Peak on Baffin Island; died on Shishapangma
  • George Lowe (1924–2013) New Zealand, last surviving member of 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
  • Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) US, made over 1000 first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas
  • Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983) Switzerland, first ascent of Lhotse, in 1956

M[]

Reinhold Messner
Thomas Middlemore
Albert F. Mummery
  • Meherban Karim(1979-2008) Pakistan, Gasherbrum II (2003), Nanga Parbat (2005), K2 (2008)(All Three without supplementary oxygen) died on K-2 while descending.
  • Ashish Mane (born 1990) India, Everest (2012), Lhotse (2013), Makalu (2014), Manaslu (2017)
  • Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia, Everest (1984), first to climb Everest from sea level (1990)
  • Dave MacLeod (born 1978) Scotland, established world's first E11
  • M. Magendran (born 1963) Malaysia, Everest (1997), first Malaysian/Tamil to reach summit
  • Nasuh Mahruki (born 1968) Turkey, Snow Leopard, first Turkish and Muslim climber of Everest
  • Janusz Majer (born September 25, 1946) a Polish alpinist, himalaist and traveler
  • Maki Yūkō (1894–1989) Japan, first ascents of Mittellegigrat (Eiger northeast ridge), Mount Alberta; first winter ascent of Mount Yari; led expedition that achieved first ascent of Manaslu
  • Antoni Malczewski
  • Rafał Malczewski
  • Tashi and Nungshi Malik (born 1991) India, many world first female twins records
  • George Mallory (1886–1924) UK, initial 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition and the initial ascent efforts of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions, died on Everest at 8,150+ metres
  • Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italy, seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000)
  • Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France, first woman to climb most major peaks in French and Swiss Alps (1903–7)
  • William Mathews (1828–1901) UK, founder of Alpine Club, first ascent Monte Viso, Grande Casse
  • Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France, six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen, died on Dhaulagiri
  • John Oakley Maund (died 1902) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc massif
  • Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey, first Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006)
  • Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France, Walter Bonatti's climbing partner, first French ascent of Everest (1978)
  • Daniel Mazur (born 1960) US, numerous ascents in the Himalayas and America
  • Steve McClure (born 1970) UK, first Briton to climb 9a twice
  • Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) US, summits in the Sierra Nevada
  • Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) US, first US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955)
  • Ammon McNeely (born 1970) US, noteworthy first one-day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls
  • Alex Megos (born 1993), first climber to on-sight 5.14d/9a route
  • Alain Mesili (born 1949) France, disputed ascent on Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela,[8] pioneered routes in Bolivia
  • Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy, first to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) and without supplementary oxygen, first ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest with Peter Habeler (1978), first solo Everest (1980)
  • John Middendorf (born 1959) US, big-wall rock climber, first ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992)
  • Thomas Middlemore (1842–1923) UK, first ascents in Mont Blanc and Bernina massifs, and Bernese Alps
  • Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK, author of Space Below My Feet (1961)
  • Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK, sport climber and boulderer
  • Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy, 13th person to climb all eight-thousanders (sixth without supplementary oxygen)
  • Ben Moon (born 1966) UK, sport climber and boulderer, established world's first F8C+
  • A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK, first ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn
  • Tyrhee Moore US, member of the first all African-American team to climb Denali
  • Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria, first ascent Gasherbrum II (1956)
  • Piotr Morawski (1976–2009) Poland, many 8000m summits, died on Dhaulagiri/Manasu expedition
  • Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK, rock climber and mountain climber
  • Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy
  • Don Morrison (1929–1977) UK, Pioneer of Alpine Style, first ascents in Canada, England and the Himalayas
  • Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada, first to complete both the Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986)
  • Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia, rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004
  • John Muir (1838–1914) Scottish-born US conservationist and mountaineer, summits in California and Alaska
  • Norrie Muir (1948–2019) Scotland, prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland
  • Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK, Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat
  • Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored region around Mount Waddington
  • Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada, mountaineer and explorer, explored region around Mount Waddington
  • Malli Mastan Babu (1974–2015) India, mountaineer and explorer, world record in completing seven summits in 172 days.

N[]

Tenzing Norgay
  • Yasuko Namba (1949–1996) Japan, oldest woman at the time to climb Everest at 47 (1996), died on descent
  • Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982) Bangladesh, motivational speaker and the second Bangladeshi woman to climb Everest (2012)
  • Vitor Negrete (1967–2006) Brazil, first Brazilian to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen
  • Hilaree Nelson (born 1972) United States, first female to summit two 8000-meter peaks in one 24 hour push (2012). First ski descent Lhotse Couloir from the summit (2018)
  • Fred Nicole Switzerland, numerous first ascents of sport routes and boulders
  • Jamling Tenzing Norgay (born 1965) Nepal, son of Tenzing Norgay, climbed Everest with Edmund Hillary's son, Peter Hillary (2003)
  • Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa, first ascent Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary
  • Edward F. Norton (1884–1954) leader of 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition with Mallory and Irvine
  • Sue Nott (1969–2006) US, ice climber and first American woman to climb the Eiger north face in winter (2003)
  • Maksymilian Nowicki
  • Wilfrid Noyce (1917–1962) UK, on Everest expedition (1953), reaching South Col, killed in Pamirs (1962)
  • Arne Næss (1912–2009) Norway, philosopher and mountaineer, leader of expedition on first ascent Tirich Mir (1950)
  • Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) Norway, leader, Norwegian Everest expedition (1985)

O[]

Juanito Oiarzabal
Adam Ondra
  • Vanessa O'Brien (born 1964) First British-American woman to summit K2
  • Cathy O'Dowd (born 1968) South Africa, first female ascent of Everest from both north and south (1999), fourth female ascent Lhotse (2000)
  • Oh Eun-Sun (born 1966) South Korea, first Korean woman to climb Seven Summits, controversy over eight-thousanders claim[9]
  • Juanito Oiarzabal (born 1956) Basque (Spain), all eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, record 24 ascents of eight-thousanders
  • Clare O'Leary (born 1972) Ireland, first Irish woman to climb Mount Everest (2004)
  • Adam Ondra (born 1993) Czech Republic, first to redpoint a 9c
  • Janusz Onyszkiewicz
  • Stanisław Osiecki
  • Dan Osman (1963–1998) US, rock climber, soloist, killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping
  • James Outram (1864–1925) Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine

P[]

Michel-Gabriel Paccard
Paul Preuss
  • Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) France, first ascent Mont Blanc (1786)
  • Bachendri Pal (born 1954) first Indian female ascent (and fifth female ascent) Everest
  • Tsewang Paljor (1968–1996) India, died on Everest in 1996 Mount Everest disaster
  • Ines Papert (born 1974) German ice climber, apinist and author
  • Marie Paradis (1757–1827) France, first female ascent Mont Blanc (1809)
  • Young-seok Park (1963–2011) South Korea, first true Explorers Grand Slam (2005), died on Annapurna
  • Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944) Canada, journalist and mountaineer
  • Chris Webb Parsons (born 1985) England/Australia, rock climber and boulderer
  • Edurne Pasaban (born 1973) Basque, Spain, first woman to climb all eight-thousanders
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) first Nepali woman to summit Everest, died on descent (1993)
  • Tom Patey (1932–1970) UK, first ascent Muztagh Tower (1956), Am Buachaille (1968), killed in abseiling accident, author of One Man's Mountains
  • Krushnaa Patil (born 1989) India, second youngest Indian girl to climb Mount Everest
  • Maciej Pawlikowski
  • Ryszard Pawłowski
  • Julius Payer (1841–1915) Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s
  • Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) US, mountaineer
  • William Penhall (1858–1882) UK, first ascent Matterhorn west face
  • Carla Perez Ecuadorian climber, first Latin American female to ascend mount Everest with no supplemental oxygen
  • Jim Perrin (born 1947) UK, over 200 first/free ascents in Britain
  • Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) US, rock climber in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites
  • Petrarch (1304–1374) Italy, climbed Mont Ventoux (1336)
  • Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960) Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, died on Mount Waddington
  • Tadeusz Piotrowski mountaineer
  • Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970) Turkey, first Turkish female over 8,000 m (2005)
  • Klára Poláčková (born 1978) first Czech female ascent Everest
  • Dean Potter (1972–2015) US, speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day
  • Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria, early promoter of free climbing, climbed 1200 peaks in his short life
  • Paul Pritchard (born 1967) UK, rock climber
  • Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria, soloed Lhotse (1981) and Everest (1984), died on descent
  • Bonnie Prudden (born 1914) pioneering US rock climber and exercise advocate, 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks
  • Karl Prusik (1896–1961) Austria, introduced widely used Prusik knot
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain, rock climber
  • Nirmal Purja (born 1982) Nepal, first to climb all fourteen 8000 meter mountains in one season (6 months, 6 days, with supplemental oxygen)
  • Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) first ascent Kilimanjaro (1889)
  • Piotr Pustelnik
  • Boyan Petrov (born 1973) Bulgaria, climbed 10 out of 14 eight-thousanders, all without supplementary oxygen

R[]

Monique Richard
Wanda Rutkiewicz
  • Brooke Raboutou (born 2001) US, member of the 2020 American Olympic climbing team
  • Aron Ralston (born 1975) US, gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident
  • Lisa Rands (born 1975) US, rock climber and boulderer
  • Michael Reardon (1974–2007) US, freesoloist and film producer
  • Dave Rearick (born 1934) US, rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on Longs Peak (1960)
  • Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France, 1950 Annapurna expedition, first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps, Alpine guide and author
  • Ernst Reiss (born 1920) Swiss, first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
  • Monique Richard (born 1975) Canada, first woman to solo climb Mount Logan, first Canadian woman to summit Mt Makalu, Seven Summits in 32 months
  • Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK, wrote Climbing Days (1935)
  • Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK, mountaineer in the Alps in the 1880s
  • Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) US, author, filmmaker, photographer, member of first American team to summit K2[10]
  • Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany, filmmaker, actress and mountaineer
  • Ang Rita (born 1948) Sherpa, climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen
  • Royal Robbins (1935–2017) US, rock climber, pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in the 1950s
  • Alain Robert (born 1962) France, climber and builderer
  • David Roberts US, author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (Mount McKinley) and other Alaskan peaks
  • Paul Robinson (born 1987) US, rock climber and boulderer
  • André Roch (1906–2002) Switzerland, Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia
  • Beth Rodden (born 1980) US, rock climber
  • Jordan Romero (born 1996) US, became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010, aged 13 years, 10 months, 10 days[11]
  • Steve Roper guidebook writer, editor of Ascent
  • John Roskelley (born 1948) US, author, alpinist, Himalayan climber notable for technical first ascents of 7000 and 8000 m peaks
  • Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France, rock climber, notable for 1995 proposal of grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira
  • Alan Rouse (1951–1986) UK, soloed many of hardest routes of day, died on descent from K2 (1986)
  • Galen Rowell (1940–2002) US, photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro, first ascent Great Trango Tower
  • Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland, prolific first ascentionist in Pyrenees
  • Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland, first woman on K2, 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting Kanchenjunga

S[]

John Salathé
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure
Ueli Steck
Gottlieb Samuel Studer
  • Nazir Sabir Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, first Pakistani to climb Mount Everest
  • Hassan Sadpara (born 1963) Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan, starting as a high altitude porter, he climbed 5xPakistani 8000ers and Everest, without supplementary oxygen
  • Mostafa Salameh (born 1970) Jordan, first Jordanian to summit Everest, and Seven Summits
  • John Salathé (1900–1993) Switzerland/US, pioneering Yosemite National Park, inventor of modern piton
  • Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France, third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
  • Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria, first ascent Broad Peak, first ascent Skil Brum
  • Peter Schoening (1927–2004) US, first ascent Gasherbrum I and Vinson Massif, saved five climbers on K2 (1953)[12]
  • Doug Scott (born 1941) UK, Seven Summits, first ascent Everest south-west face, Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse
  • Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy, mountaineer and pioneer photographer
  • Chris Sharma (born 1981) US, award-winning rock climber, second climber to redpoint 5.15c/9b+ (La Dura Dura), featured in several rock climbing movies
  • John Sherman (born 1959) US, inventor of "V" grading system
  • Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal, record for most ascents of Everest (20 as of 2010)
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal, first Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent
  • Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal, first Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face, died on Lhotse
  • Pemba Dorjie Sherpa Nepal, fastest ascent of Everest (2003)
  • Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK, first ascent Kamet, pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier
  • Ashima Shiraishi (born 2001) US, first female to climb V15 (Horizon, Mount Hiei, Japan)
  • William Shockley (1910–1989) US, Nobel Prize-winning physicist, proponent of eugenics, first ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953)
  • Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK, survived a fall on Siula Grande, wrote Touching the Void
  • Arunima Sinha India, first Indian amputee to climb Everest
  • Todd Skinner (1958–2006) US, rock climber, first free ascent Salathe Wall, died on Leaning Tower
  • Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway, first female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles, Everest and K2
  • Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada, first Canadian to summit Everest (1982)
  • William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK, first ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876), pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering
  • Marian Smoluchowski
  • Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK, first ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa, reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen[13]
  • Dermot Somers Ireland, climber, author and broadcaster[14]
  • Carlos Soria Fontán (born 1939) Spain, the only mountaineer to have ascended nine mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60 years old
  • Jaahnavi Sriperambuduru (born 2001) India, first Youngest Upcoming Mountaineer to attempt Seven Summits, climbed Mount Kilimanjaro at age 12, Mount Elbrus at 13, and Mount Kosciuszko (includes Aussie 10 Peaks) at 14
  • William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada, first non-African to climb in the Ruwenzoris
  • Allen Steck (born 1926) US, mountaineer and rock climber
  • Ueli Steck (1976–2017) Switzerland, soloed Eiger north face in 2:22:50 hours (2015)
  • Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK, author and alpinist, first ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn
  • Fritz Steuri (1879–1950) Switzerland, skier and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
  • Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK, deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition, outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37
  • Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland, first ascent Wildhorn (1843), founding member of Swiss Alpine Club
  • Jan Alfred Szczepański
  • Mieczysław Szczuka
  • Satyarup Siddhanta (born 1983) India, climbed Mont Blanc, climbed 6 of the 7 summits, climbed Mt Everest on 21 May 2016

T[]

Bill Tilman
Francis Fox Tuckett
  • Junko Tabei (born 1939) Japan, first female ascent Everest; first completion of Bass and Messner's Seven Summits
  • Joe Tasker (1948–1982) UK, Dunagiri, Kanchenjunga, Changabang West Wall; died on Everest (May 1982)
  • Vernon Tejas (born 1953) US, first solo winter ascent Denali, Seven Summits time world record
  • Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France, first ascents Fitz Roy, Chakrarahu, Jannu and Makalu on the 1955 French Makalu expedition; second ascent Eiger north face (1947)
  • Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004) Ukraine, disputed claim to have climbed all eight-thousanders
  • Kevin Thaw (born 1967) UK, ascents in Himalaya and Yosemite
  • Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austrian, first ascent Cho Oyu (1954)
  • Bill Tilman (1898–1977) UK, explorer, climbed in Africa and Himalaya, first ascent Nanda Devi (1936)
  • Luis Trenker (1892–1990) Italy, mountaineer, film director and writer
  • Sonnie Trotter (born 1979) Canada, award-winning climber, known for hard trad climbing
  • Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) UK, first ascent Aletschhorn (1859)
  • Julie Tullis (1939–1986) UK, Broad Peak (1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2
  • Mark Twight (born 1962) US, advocate of "light and fast" style of mountaineering
  • John Tyndall (1820–1893) UK, early attempts on Matterhorn, first ascent Weisshorn (1861)

U[]

Karl Unterkircher
  • Naomi Uemura (1941��1984) Japan, first solo winter ascent Mount McKinley, on which he died
  • James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) US, author and mountaineer
  • Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey, mountaineer, photographer and editor, died on in Kyrgyzstan
  • Um Hong-Gil (born 1960) South Korea, 9th person to climb all eight-thousanders, first to climb 16 highest peaks
  • Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) US, first ascent Everest west ridge (1963), died on Mount Rainier (1979)
  • Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy, Everest and K2 in the same year without oxygen, died on Nanga Parbat
  • Denis Urubko (born 1973) Kazakhstan, 14x8000er; first winter ascents of Makalu and Gasherbrum II, Snow Leopard award winner

V[]

Anak Verhoeven
  • Arjun Vajpai (born 1993) India, climbed Everest 2010, Lhotse 2011 and Manaslu 2011
  • Ivan Vallejo (born 1959) Ecuador, 14th person to climb all eight-thousanders (7th without supplemental oxygen)
  • Patrick Vallençant (1946–1989) France, alpinist/skier and ski mountaineering pioneer
  • Anak Verhoeven (born 1996) Belgium, first woman to claim a first ascent of a 5.15a
  • Allison Vest (born 1995) Canada, two-time Canadian Bouldering Nationals champion
  • Ed Viesturs (born 1959) US, first US climber to climb all eight-thousander (6th without supplemental oxygen)
  • Sibusiso Vilane (born 1970) South Africa, first black African to summit Everest (2003)
  • Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) Germany, first ascent Eiger north face (1938)

W[]

Edward Whymper
Krzysztof Wielicki
  • Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK, first ascent Mount Elbrus, Grandes Jorasses, Barre des Ecrins, Obergabelhorn
  • Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK, first female ascent Matterhorn (1871)
  • Barbara Washburn US, first ascent Mount Bertha, first female ascent Denali (1947)
  • Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) US, third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route
  • Ryan Waters (born 1973) US, first American to complete the Adventurers Grand Slam with unsupported north and south poles
  • Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK, first ascent Annapurna south face (1970)
  • Rick White (1946–2004) Australia, rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968)
  • Jim Whittaker (born 1929) US, first US ascent Everest (1963)
  • Lou Whittaker (born 1929) US, Rainier guide
  • Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK, first ascent Matterhorn (1865), first ascent Chimborazo (1880)
  • Jim Wickwire (born 1940) US, K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit)
  • Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950) Poland, first winter ascent Everest; fifth person to climb all eight-thousanders
  • Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany, leader of unsuccessful Nanga Parbat expedition (1937)
  • Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) US, born Dresden, emigrated to US; pioneer of free climbing; K2 expedition (1939)
  • Sydney Wignall (1922-2012) UK, Climbed Gurla Mandhata in 1955
  • Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) Canadian Rockies explorer
  • Richard Williams - rock climber, pioneered many first ascents in the Shawangunks and author of rock climbing books
  • George Willig (born 1949) US, climbed South Tower of World Trade Center
  • Fritz Wintersteller (born 1927) Austria, first ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Skil Brum (1957)
  • Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK, climbed Everest several times
  • Daniel Woods (born 1989) American climber who specialises in bouldering, ascended the world's hardest boulder problem, Flash (V15) in 2011
  • Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) US, geographer, cartographer and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas

Y[]

  • Santosh Yadav (born 1969) India, Indo-Tibetan Border Police woman, climbed Everest twice (1992 and 1993)
  • Simon Yates (born 1963) UK, Joe Simpson's partner on west face of Siula Grande (1985), subject of Touching the Void
  • Michael J. Ybarra (1966–2012) US, climber and writer, extreme sports correspondent for The Wall Street Journal 2007–2012
  • Wang Yongfeng (born 1963) China, first Chinese couple to climb Seven Summits (with Li Zhixin)
  • Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998) Japan, climber and writer; K2 (1977)[15]
  • Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK, first ascent Täschhorn south face, Weisshorn west ridge, Grandes Jorasses traverse

Z[]

Andrzej Zawada
  • Mariusz Zaruski
  • Andrzej Zawada (1928–2000) Poland, pioneer of winter Himalayism
  • Li Zhixin (born 1962) China, half of first Chinese couple to climb the Seven Summits with Wang Yongfeng
  • Emil Zsigmondy (1861–1885) Austria, physician and mountain climber; died trying to force new route on the Meije
  • Jerzy Żuławski (1874–1915) Polish literary figure, philosopher, translator and alpinist
  • Juliusz Żuławski (1910–1999) Polish poet, prose writer, literary critic, translator and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
  • Marek Żuławski (1908–1985) Polish painter, graphic artist, author and climber; son of Jerzy Żuławski
  • Wawrzyniec Żuławski (1916–1957) Polish composer, music critic and teacher; died during Mont Blanc rescue mission; son of Jerzy Żuławski
  • Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Switzerland, first ascent Aconcagua (1897)

See also[]

  • List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest

References[]

  1. ^ Naseer, APP | Tahir (1 June 2017). "Pakistani mountaineer returns after conquering Everest". DAWN.COM.
  2. ^ "Lonely Grave in the Sierra - Norman Clyde". Archived from the original on September 14, 2009.
  3. ^ Günther Dyhrenfurth
  4. ^ "Ershlers First Couple to Climb the Seven Summits". International Mountain Guides. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
  5. ^ "Mick Fowler". Mountain Culture. The Banff Centre. 2000. Archived from the original on 2012-02-22. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
  6. ^ Tom Higgins
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