Offset figure-eight bend
Offset figure-eight bend | |
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Names | Offset figure-eight bend, flat figure-eight bend[1], abnormal figure-eight bend[2] |
The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[1][3] The knot may invert itself under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly.[4] Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. If the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.
More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend (the "figure eight bend"), (doubled) offset overhand bend, or double fisherman's knot.
See also[]
References[]
- ^ a b Moyer, Tom (1999-11-09). "Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot"". Rope and Gear Testing. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
- ^ "Rock Climbing Tech Tips: Joining Two Ropes". Chockstone.org. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
- ^ "Rappel Knot Fails, Climber Falls to Death on the Goat Wall". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
- ^ Dahlberg, Robin. "Cross load test of common climbing knots". Vimeo. 0:08-0:35. Retrieved 2020-06-10.
Categories:
- Knots
- Knot stubs