Stefano Ghisolfi

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Stefano Ghisolfi
StefanoGhisolfi-1.JPG
Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013.
Personal information
Born (1993-02-18) February 18, 1993 (age 29)
Turin, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber and sport climber
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberLead climbing, bouldering
Ape index+4 cm (2 in)
Highest grade
Known forFourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route
Medal record
World Cup
Second place 2017 Lead
Second place 2018 Lead
First place 2021 Lead
Updated on December 7, 2018.

Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international competitions in three disciplines: Lead, Bouldering and Speed, obtaining his best results in Lead climbing. On rock, he redpointed 9b+ (5.15c),[1] onsighted 8c (5.14b)[2] and solved a 8B+ (V14) boulder problem.[3]

In December 2018, by climbing Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.[4]

In August 2021, by climbing Bibliographie, he would have become the third climber in history to redpoint a 9c (5.15d) route, after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. However on 26 August 2021, sharing about the grade proposition, he suggested the route would likely fall into a 9b+ range instead. This remains the first repeat of a proposed 9c in the world, hence making the grade and achievement still subjective.

Shortly after, Alex Megos shared that he agreed with Stefano's grade proposition, which means the consensus of the route currently stands at 9b+. This makes Stefano the second most accomplished climber, after Adam Ondra, having redpointed 3 9b+ (with consensus).

Biography[]

In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.

Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.[5] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldring and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.

On October 13, 2012 he first got on podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.

On November 2, 2015 he first ascended Lapsus in Andonno (Italy), a 70 hold route for which he proposed a 9b (5.15b) grade.[6]

On December 7, 2018, by climbing the impressive 9b+ (5.15c) route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.[4]

On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change, 9b+ (5.15c), in Flatanger, Norway. This route was the first of the grade, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[7]

On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliography, 9b+ (5.15c), in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.[8]

Rankings[]

Climbing World Cup[9][]

Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead 21 24 10 10 9 9 4 2 2 5 1
Bouldering 65 83 30 41
Speed 17 30 38
Combined 10 10 4 9

Climbing World Championships[]

Youth[5][10]

Discipline 2008
Youth B 		2009
Youth A 		2010
Youth A 		2011
Juniors 		2012
Juniors
Lead 5 15 3 3 13
Speed 5 6 5 - 17

Adult[5]

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018
Lead 27 16 10 7 22
Bouldering 25 16
Speed 30 33

Climbing European Championships[]

Youth[5]

Discipline 2012
Juniors
Lead 3

Adult[5]

Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 37 16 7 10
Bouldering 37 35 35 -
Speed 18 32 26 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[]

Lead[5][]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 1 1
2013 0
2014 1 1
2015 0
2016 1 1 2
2017 1 1 1 3
2018 2 2 4
2019 1 1
2020 0
2021 1 2 3
Total 6 6 3 15

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup[]

Lead[5][]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011 Juniors 1 3 4
2012 Juniors 1 1
Total 1 1 3 5

Speed[5][]

Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
2011 Juniors 2 2
Total 0 0 2 2

Rock climbing[]

Redpointed routes[]

9b+ (5.15c):

  • Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - December 7, 2018[4] - First Ascent by Alex Megos, 2018
  • Change - Flatanger (NOR) - September 29, 2020[11] - First Ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
  • Bibliographie - Céüse (FRA) - August 24, 2021[1] - First Ascent by Alex Megos, 2020. Originally 9c, Ghisolfi proposed 9b+ instead.

9b (5.15b):

  • L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
  • Erebor - Arco (ITA) - January 11, 2021[12] - First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra.
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2011
  • One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
  • First Round, First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - January 30, 2017[13]
  • Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent[6]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
  • L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015[20] - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
  • Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
  • Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
  • Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
  • Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002[21]

Onsighted routes[]

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Falconeti - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013[22]
  • L-mens - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013[22]

Boulder problems[]

Ghisolfi climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems.[3]

He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.[23]

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ a b Planet Mountain, ed. (August 24, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse". Retrieved August 25, 2021.
  2. ^ a b Planet Mountain, ed. (January 9, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi 8c onsight". Retrieved December 7, 2018.
  3. ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (January 5, 2012). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 8B+ a Varazze". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  4. ^ a b c Instagram, ed. (December 7, 2018). "Perfecto mundo 9b+, mission accomplished". Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved December 7, 2018. {{cite web}}: |editor= has generic name (help)
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h IFSC, ed. (July 19, 2021). "Ghisolfi's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 19, 2021.
  6. ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (November 2, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera Lapsus ad Andonno, il primo 9b in Italia". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  7. ^ Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". Retrieved October 14, 2020.
  8. ^ "Et bam... Stefano Ghisolfi décote Bibliographie à 9b+..." August 27, 2021. Retrieved August 27, 2021.
  9. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  10. ^ WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile
  11. ^ "NEWSFLASH: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  12. ^ montagna.tv, ed. (January 13, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera "Erebor": "La via più difficile d'Italia"". Retrieved August 25, 2021.
  13. ^ "First Round, First Minute is done! Today I finally climbed my second 9b, FA". January 30, 2017. Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  14. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (March 21, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi sale La Rambla a Siurana al quarto tentativo". Retrieved March 20, 2017.
  15. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (February 14, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi e Pietro Biagini, grandi salite a Margalef e Varazze". Retrieved January 31, 2017.
  16. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 20, 2016). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Ultimatum a Massone, nuovo 9a+ ad Arco". Retrieved December 27, 2016.
  17. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 23, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Biographie 9a+ a Ceuse". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  18. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (March 15, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi risolve Demencia Senil 9a+ a Margalef". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  19. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (August 25, 2014). "Stefano Ghisolfi, primo 9a+ con Le moustache qui fâche". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  20. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (October 13, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a in un weekend al Covolo". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  21. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 10, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a al Tetto di Sarre in Aosta". Retrieved June 10, 2013.
  22. ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (January 11, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi, due 8b+ a vista in Spagna". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  23. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 5, 2013). "Melloblocco 2013: day ten, l'arrivederci alla Valle". Retrieved May 6, 2013.

External links[]

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