IFSC Climbing World Cup

IFSC Climbing World Cup
IFSC Climbing World Cup
	World Cup series logo
Seasons
	; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; 2007; 2008; 2009; 2010; 2011; 2012; 2013; 2014; 2015; 2016; 2017; 2018; 2019; 2020; 2021;
Disciplines
	Lead; Bouldering; Speed;
Most gold medals
	Janja Garnbret (31)
Most titles
	Sandrine Levet (10)

Anna Stöhr at the Boulder Worldcup 2012

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competitions and venues vary from year to year. The first World Cup was held in 1989, and included only lead climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998 and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of UIAA and called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they are held under the auspices of IFSC.^[1]

Scoring system[]

Individual disciplines[]

At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money. The top 40 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points.

Ranking	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15
Points	100	80	65	55	51	47	43	40	37	34	31	28	26	24	22

Ranking	16	17	18	19	20	21	22	23	24	25	26	27	28	29	30
Points	20	18	16	14	12	10	9	8	7	6	5	4	3	2	1

Ranking	31	32	33	34	35	36	37	38	39	40
Points	0.95	0.9	0.85	0.8	0.75	0.7	0.65	0.6	0.55	0.5

For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, their worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.^[2]

National team ranking[]

At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.

Combined ranking[]

Janja Garnbret's results in 2017
Discipline	Overall score	Overall ranking
Lead	665	1
Bouldering	470	2
Speed	0	—
Combined	1135	1

For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.^[3] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.

From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.

Jakob Schubert's results in 2018
Discipline	Selected event	Rankings
Discipline	Selected event	General	Relative
Lead	Villars	1	1
Lead	Arco	1	1
Bouldering	Meringen	4	3
Bouldering	Munich	3	2
Speed	Wujiang	27	2
Speed	Xiamen	26	4
Product of relative rankings			48

Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.^[4] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.

In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.^[5] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.

Men's results[]

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.^[6]

Lead[]

Year	Winner	Second	Third
1989	Simon Nadin		Jerry Moffatt
1990	François Legrand
1991	François Legrand (2)		Yuji Hirayama
1992	François Legrand (3)		Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1993	François Legrand (4)	François Petit	Yuji Hirayama
1994		François Legrand	Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1995	François Petit	François Legrand
1996		François Petit
1997	François Legrand (5)		François Petit
1998	Yuji Hirayama
1999	François Petit (2)	François Legrand
2000	Yuji Hirayama (2)	Alexandre Chabot
2001	Alexandre Chabot		Tomáš Mrázek
2002	Alexandre Chabot (2)	Tomáš Mrázek
2003	Alexandre Chabot (3)	Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2004	Tomáš Mrázek	Alexandre Chabot
2005
2006	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza	David Lama	Tomáš Mrázek
2007	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (2)	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Tomáš Mrázek
2008		Tomáš Mrázek	Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2009	Adam Ondra	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza	Sachi Amma
2010	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Jakob Schubert	Adam Ondra
2011	Jakob Schubert	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Sachi Amma
2012	Sachi Amma	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Jakob Schubert
2013	Sachi Amma (2)	Jakob Schubert	Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2014	Jakob Schubert (2)	Sean McColl	Adam Ondra
2015	Adam Ondra (2)		Jakob Schubert
2016	Domen Škofic	Jakob Schubert	Romain Desgranges
2017	Romain Desgranges	Stefano Ghisolfi
2018	Jakob Schubert (3)	Stefano Ghisolfi	Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic
2019	Adam Ondra (3)	Alberto Gines Lopez	Sean McColl
2021	Stefano Ghisolfi	Sean Bailey

Bouldering[]

Year	Winner	Second	Third
1999	Christian Core		Jérôme Meyer
2000
2001	Jérôme Meyer
2002	Christian Core (2) Jérôme Meyer (2) Malcolm Smith	—	—
2003	Jérôme Meyer (3)
2004		Kilian Fischhuber	Jérôme Meyer
2005	Kilian Fischhuber	Jérôme Meyer
2006	Jérôme Meyer (4)	Kilian Fischhuber
2007	Kilian Fischhuber (2)	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2008	Kilian Fischhuber (3)	David Lama	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009	Kilian Fischhuber (4)
2010	Adam Ondra	Kilian Fischhuber
2011	Kilian Fischhuber (5)	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2012		Kilian Fischhuber	Jakob Schubert
2013	Dmitri Sarafutdinov	Jakob Schubert	Sean McColl
2014	Jan Hojer	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2015	Jongwon Chon	Jan Hojer	Adam Ondra
2016	Tomoa Narasaki	Kokoro Fujii	Alexey Rubtsov
2017	Jongwon Chon (2)	Tomoa Narasaki	Alexey Rubtsov
2018	Jernej Kruder	Tomoa Narasaki
2019	Tomoa Narasaki (2)	Adam Ondra	Yoshiyuki Ogata

Speed[]

Year	Winner	Second	Third
1998^[3]
1999
2000	(2)
2001
2002
2003	(2)
2004
2005
2006	(2)
2007	(2)
2008	(3)
2009	(3)
2010
2011
2012	(2)	Danyil Boldyrev
2013	(3)
2014	Danyil Boldyrev		Marcin Dzieński
2015			Danyil Boldyrev
2016	Marcin Dzieński	Reza Alipour
2017	Vladislav Deulin	Reza Alipour	Ludovico Fossali
2018	Bassa Mawem	Danyil Boldyrev
2019	Bassa Mawem (2)	Vladislav Deulin

Combined[]

Year	Winner	Second	Third
1998^[3]^[7]			—
1999	François Petit
2000	Alexandre Chabot
2001	Alexandre Chabot (2)		Kilian Fischhuber
2002			Kilian Fischhuber
2003
2004	Kilian Fischhuber
2005	(2)	Kilian Fischhuber	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2006	Tomáš Mrázek	David Lama	Kilian Fischhuber
2007		Tomáš Mrázek	Kilian Fischhuber
2008	David Lama		Tomáš Mrázek
2009	Adam Ondra	Sachi Amma
2010	Adam Ondra (2)	Jakob Schubert	Sachi Amma
2011	Jakob Schubert	Sean McColl
2012	Jakob Schubert (2)	Sean McColl	Sachi Amma
2013	Jakob Schubert (3)	Sean McColl	Sachi Amma
2014	Sean McColl	Adam Ondra	Domen Škofic
2015	Adam Ondra (3)	Sean McColl	Domen Škofic
2016	Sean McColl (2)	Jakob Schubert	Kokoro Fujii
2017	Tomoa Narasaki	Jongwon Chon	Kokoro Fujii
2018	Jakob Schubert (4)	Tomoa Narasaki	Kokoro Fujii
2019	Tomoa Narasaki (2)	Adam Ondra	Jakob Schubert