Speed climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Speed climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates28 May – 3 July 2021
Champions
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenUnited States
← 2019
 →

Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.[1][2][3][4][5]

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.[6]

Overview[]

Date Location Venue Men Women
May, 28–30 United States Salt Lake City, United States Industry SLC[7] Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Poland Aleksandra Mirosław
July, 1–3 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[8] Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Russia
OVERALL WINNERS Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo United States
NATIONAL TEAM Indonesia Indonesia

Records broken[]

See also: Speed climbing § Speed Climbing World Records and Champions
Event Round Climber Location Time Date
Men's speed Qualification Indonesia Salt Lake City, USA 5.258[9] May 28, 2021
Final Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo Salt Lake City, USA 5.208[10] May 28, 2021

Competition format[]

The speed wall is standardized: 15 meters high, 5 degrees overhanging, same route.

In the qualifications, athletes race in both lane a and lane b; only their best times are recorded and used for seeding. Sixteen fastest athletes in the qualifications progress into the finals where athletes are seeded and raced head-to-head against.each other.

Overall ranking[]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are four competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[11]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 200 1. 100 1. 100
2 Indonesia 145 2. 80 3. 65
3 Poland Marcin Dzieński 96 3. 65 11. 31
4 United States 81 4. 55 13. 26
5 Russia 80 — 2. 80
6 France 59 7. 43 18. 16
7 Russia Vladislav Deulin 55 — 4. 55
8 United States 51 5. 51 —
8 Iran 51 — 5. 51
10 Ukraine 50 8. 40 21. 10

Women[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2021:[12]

Rank Name Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 United States 131 2. 80 5. 51
2 Poland 120 4. 55 3. 65
3 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 100* 1. 100 —
3 Russia 100* — 1. 100
5 France Anouck Jaubert 94* 5. 51 7. 43
5 Poland 94* 6. 47 6. 47
7 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 85 — 2. 80
8 France 74 8. 40 10. 34
9 Japan Miho Nonaka 65 3. 65 —
10 Indonesia 55 — 4. 55

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams[]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Speed World Cup 2021:[13]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Salt Lake City Villars
1 Indonesia Indonesia 503 4. 180.0 2. 323.0
2 Poland Poland 447 2. 267.0 3. 180.0
3 United States United States 396.8 1. 276.0 5. 120.8
4 Russia Russia 384 — 1. 384.0
5 France France 340 3. 207.0 4. 133.0
6 Japan Japan 140.55 5. 139.55 15. 1.0
7 Italy Italy 132.5 7. 75.0 7. 57.5
8 Ukraine Ukraine 130 6. 95.0 10. 35.0
9 Austria Austria 101.8 8. 63.9 9. 37.9
10 Germany Germany 85.85 9. 63.0 12. 22.85

Salt Lake City, United States (May, 28–30)[]

Men[]

38 men attended the event.[14]

of Indonesia set a world record time of 5.258 seconds in qualifying, a record that was broken the same day by fellow Indonesian, Veddriq Leonardo, who hit the buzzer at 5.20 in the final run against Katibin. Poland's Marcin Dzieński placed third after beating American in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.37 5.55 5.42 5.38 5.20
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Indonesia 5.25 5.49 wildcard 5.35 fall
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland Marcin Dzieński 5.90 6.22 5.88 5.77 5.84
4 United States 5.60 5.72 5.98 5.76 6.89
5 United States 6.19 7.82 6.13
6 Japan 6.253 6.18 6.23
7 France 6.14 5.94 FS
8 Ukraine 6.17 6.50 fall
9 Italy Ludovico Fossali 6.09 5.95
10 France 6.36 6.12
11 France Mickael Mawem 6.28 6.79
12 United States 6.255 7.79
13 Italy 6.06 7.88
14 Ukraine 6.02 8.28
15 Ecuador 6.03 8.73
16 Germany 6.32 11.09


Women[]

24 women attended the event.[17]

Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław took the win after winning a tight race against the United States' who took second place. A non-speed-specialist Japan's Miho Nonaka placed third after beating Poland's in the small final.[15][16]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 7.20 7.83 7.59 7.40 7.38
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States 7.52 7.61 7.62 7.77 7.53
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Miho Nonaka 8.58 8.50 8.20 8.36 8.95
4 Poland 8.28 8.16 8.18 8.37 10.40
5 France Anouck Jaubert 8.49 8.16 7.78
6 Poland 7.68 9.59 8.48
7 Austria 8.54 9.00 8.63
8 France 7.94 7.87 10.58
9 Germany 8.33 8.52
10 United States 8.72 8.70
11 Ukraine 8.68 8.95
12 United States Brooke Raboutou 9.36 9.55
13 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 9.12 10.20
14 United States Kyra Condie 8.43 10.82
15 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 8.36 14.47
16 Austria 8.77 14.94

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)[]

Men[]

51 men attended the event.[18]

Indonesia's Veddriq Leonardo claimed his second consecutive win after beating Russia's in the final race. Leonardo's teammate, placed third after beating Russia's Vladislav Deulin in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.52 5.50 5.42 5.35 5.32
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia 5.622 6.05 5.64 5.48 7.35
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Indonesia 5.48 5.35 5.31 6.07 5.30
4 Russia Vladislav Deulin 5.756 5.67 5.62 5.51 5.38
5 Iran 5.734 6.78 5.68
6 Russia 5.67 6.07 5.72
7 Indonesia 5.724 5.60 6.13
8 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 5.728 5.53 7.73
9 Indonesia 5.726 5.72
10 Russia 5.77 5.78
11 Poland Marcin Dzieński 5.71 5.80
12 Iran Reza Alipour Shenazandifard 5.54 5.81
13 United States 5.757 6.11
14 United States Noah Bratschi 5.739 6.36
15 Russia 5.625 7.91
16 Italy 5.729 9.90

Women[]

40 women attended the event.[20]

Russia's took her first World Cup gold medal after outracing her teammate and current world record holder Iuliia Kaplina in the final race. Poland's took third place after beating Indonesia's in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Qual. 1/8 1/4 1/2 Small Final
1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia 7.61 7.59 7.28 7.30 7.30
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Iuliia Kaplina 7.01 7.31 7.17 7.17 8.39
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland 7.56 7.60 7.42 7.50 7.73
4 Indonesia 7.34 7.33 7.02 fall 10.38
5 United States 7.72 7.43 7.19
6 Poland 7.28 8.29 7.47
7 France Anouck Jaubert 7.49 wildcard 7.52
8 Indonesia 7.24 7.19 fall
9 Poland 7.84 7.61
10 France 8.00 7.68
11 Italy 7.912 7.87
12 France 8.14 8.00
13 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 7.916 8.01
14 Austria 8.07 8.57
15 Russia 8.17 10.47
16 Indonesia 7.918 FS

References[]

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  2. ^ "IFSC WORLD CUPS IN CHINA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  3. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP IN JAKARTA CANCELLED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-12.
  4. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup in Jakarta cancelled due to COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 11 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-12.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  5. ^ "IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 September 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-25.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  6. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  7. ^ "2021 Salt Lake City info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  8. ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  9. ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), Kiromal Katibin DESTROYS the men's Speed world record!, retrieved 2021-05-29
  10. ^ International Federation of Sport Climbing (2021-05-28), IFSC Boulder World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 - Men's and women's Speed finals, retrieved 2021-05-29
  11. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  12. ^ "IFSC Speed World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  13. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2021: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-07-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  14. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  15. ^ a b "Veddriq Leonardo sets new world record in Salt Lake City Speed World Cup". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Rnd 3): Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  17. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,S) - SALT LAKE CITY (USA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  18. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  19. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-07.
  20. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-06.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
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