Akiyo Noguchi

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Akiyo Noguchi
Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals092 Akiyo Noguchi.jpg
Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1989-05-30) May 30, 1989 (age 32)
Ryūgasaki, Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan[1]
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)
Weight49 kg (108 lb)
Websitehttp://akiyonoguchi.com
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning the bouldering World Cup 4 times
Sport
Retired2021
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 21 24 23
Olympic Games
Bronze medal – third place 2020 Tokyo Combined
World Cup (Season)
Second place 2008 Bouldering
Winner 2008 Combined
Winner 2009 Bouldering
Winner 2009 Combined
Winner 2010 Bouldering
Second place 2011 Bouldering
Second place 2012 Bouldering
Second place 2013 Bouldering
Winner 2014 Bouldering
Winner 2014 Combined
Winner 2015 Bouldering
Second place 2015 Combined
Second place 2016 Combined
Third place 2017 Bouldering
Second place 2018 Bouldering
Second place 2018 Combined
Second place 2019 Bouldering
Second place 2019 Combined
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2005 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2007 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2014 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2016 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2018 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2019 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2019 Combined
Asian Games
Gold medal – first place 2018 Combined
Updated on April 28, 2019.

Akiyo Noguchi (野口 啓代, Noguchi Akiyo, born May 30, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer.

She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she won Bouldering Japan Cup nine times consecutively from 2005 to 2014, which no other Japanese athlete has been able to match.

She retired from competition climbing after competing and winning a bronze medal in the 2020 Summer Olympics.[2][3][4]

Biography[]

Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.

Noguchi grew up on a cattle farm in the Ibaraki Prefecture. From a young age she would climb on buildings, trees and sometimes even on the cows. In 2000, when she was 11 years old, she tried a real climbing wall for the first time, during a holiday trip to Guam. Back at home she immediately joined a local climbing gym. Her father later built her a climbing wall in an old cattle barn on the farm.[5][6][7]

In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cups, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[8] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[9] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[9] She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.[9]

Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[10]

In 2019 Akiyo Noguchi won a silver medal in the combined competition at the climbing World Championship which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics. Noguchi had contemplated retirement from competition climbing as early as 2016, but when it was announced that climbing would become an Olympic sport in 2020 for the first time she decided to try and qualify for Olympics in her home country.[11] Noguchi attended her final IFSC Climbing World Cup in Innsbruck in June 2021, finishing a career of 169 World Cups and World Championships and 75 podium places.[12] On July 13, 2021, she published an autobiography.[13]

She finished her climbing career with a bronze medal at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

Rankings[]

See also: Best IFSC results and Akiyo Noguchi in the Climbing World Cup

World Cup[]

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead 42 21 24 5 11 8 20 13 7 10 30 17 15 8 9 22
Bouldering - - 6 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 4 3 2 2 9
Combined - - 5 1 1 2 3 3 2 1 2 2 6 2 2 -

[9]

World Championships[]

2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 3 11 8 - - 9 - 8 5
Bouldering 21 2 5 5 6 3 3 2 2
Speed - - 31 - - - - 47 34
Combined - - - - - - - 4 2

[14]

World Cup podiums[]

Lead[]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2008 1 1
2009 1 1
2010 2 2
2011 0
2012 0
2013 1 1
2014 1 1
2015 0
2016 1 1
2017 0
2018 1 1
2019 1 1
2021 1 1
Total 0 4 6 10

[14]

Bouldering[]

Noguchi at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007 2 1 3
2008 1 1 1 3
2009 3 1 1 5
2010 2 1 1 4
2011 4 1 5
2012 3 3
2013 3 2 5
2014 4 1 2 7
2015 1 3 4
2016 1 2 3
2017 2 3 5
2018 3 4 7
2019 4 4
Total 21 20 17 58

[14]

Rock climbing[]

Redpointed routes[]

8b (5.13d):

  • Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013

Boulder problems[]

8A+ (V12)

  • Aguni - Mizugaki (JPN) - November 2014.[15]
  • A Maze of Death - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[16]

8A (V11)

  • Monsterman SD - Jyougasaki (JPN) - February 2010.[17][18]
  • Evilution Direct - Bishop (CAL) - 2016.[16]

Media[]

Akiyo Noguchi is world renowned for her incredible technique and mobility. Udo Neumann, a German climbing coach, published a video of some of her best performances throughout her career, analyzing the qualities that have allowed her to excel in climbing. This video, entitled "Factors Deciding Bouldering Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi,"[19] emphasizes her adaptability, which enables her to come up with unique solutions to the problems she encounters. Furthermore, her mobility allows her to do moves that elude her fellow competitors.[20] She has also gained fame on social medias, such as Instagram, where she has over 100 thousand followers.[21]

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ "Akiyo Noguchi".
  2. ^ "Sport Climbing NOGUCHI Akiyo - Tokyo 2020 Olympics". .. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  3. ^ a b "The Tokyo Olympics will be Akiyo Noguchi's First … and Last". Climbing. 2021-06-19. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  4. ^ a b "Who Is Akiyo Noguchi? - Why Japan's Legend Is Retiring In 2021 - Climber News". www.climbernews.com. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  5. ^ "Indoor Weekly: Akiyo Noguchi on Cows and Olympics". Gripped. Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  6. ^ "Akiyo Noguchi explains 2020 Olympic event sports climbing". hakuhodo-global.com. Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  7. ^ "Owndays meets #3 Akiyo Noguchi". Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  8. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo". Retrieved 2012-04-29.
  9. ^ a b c d IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 2019-08-20.
  10. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (July 18, 2010). arco2011.it (ed.). "Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi". Retrieved 2011-12-22.
  11. ^ Clarke, Owen (June 19, 2021). "The Tokyo Olympics will be Akiyo Noguchi's First … and Last". climbing.com. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  12. ^ "Second Gold of the Week for Garnbret, three boulder medals for Team Japan, and a farewell to Noguchi". IFSC. June 26, 2021. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  13. ^ "野口啓代、初の自伝本 『私とクライミング 野口啓代自伝』を7月13日に発刊｜CLIMBERS". クライマーズ公式サイト｜CLIMBERSはクライミング、ボルダリングをテーマにした総合WEBサイト (in Japanese). Retrieved 2021-07-29.
  14. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Noguchi's profile and rankings". Retrieved 2019-08-20.
  15. ^ "Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On 'Aguni' V12 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383".
  16. ^ a b "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop".
  17. ^ youtube (ed.). "Monsterman SD".
  18. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (February 9, 2010). "Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes". Retrieved 2011-12-22.
  19. ^ udini, Factors Deciding Boulder Comps - the Art of Akiyo Noguchi, retrieved 2019-02-07
  20. ^ OnBouldering, A jaw-dropping move by Akiyo Noguchi | Sunday Sends, retrieved 2019-02-07
  21. ^ "NoguchiAkiyo / 野口啓代 / のぐちあきよ (@noguchi_akiyo) • Instagram photos and videos". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2019-02-07.[self-published]

External links[]

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