IFSC Climbing World Championships

IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
1991 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021
Disciplines
Lead Bouldering Speed Combined
Most wins
Janja Garnbret (6)

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.^[1][2][3][4]

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History[]

Creation and organisers[]

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the first climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions.^[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events[]

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.^[1][2][3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking^[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which will be used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

Paraclimbing was introduced at the 2012 World Championships, but from 2019 it became its own championship, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.

Years[]

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.^{[citation needed]}

Championships[]

Edition	Year	Location	Date(s)	Disciplines						Athletes	Nations	Website	Notes
				Event	L	S	B	C	Para
1	1991	Frankfurt	1–2 October	2	X	X	-	-	-	110	22		[8]
2	1993	Innsbruck	29–30 April	2	X	X	-	-	-	127	23		[9]
3	1995	Geneva	5–6 May	2	X	X	-	-	-	135	24		[10]
4	1997	Paris	31 January–1 February	2	X	X	-	-	-	153	26		[11]
5	1999	Birmingham	2–3 December	2	X	X	-	-	-	180	30		[12]
6	2001	Winterthur	5–8 September	3	X	X	X	-	-	198	25		[13]
7	2003	Chamonix	9–13 July	3	X	X	X	-	-	241	34		[14]
8	2005	Munich	1–5 July	3	X	X	X	-	-	318	51		[15]
9	2007	Avilés	17–23 September	3	X	X	X	-	-	302	50		[16]
10	2009	Xining	30 June – 5 July	4	X	X	X	-	-	219	44		[17]
11	2011	Arco	15–24 July	4	X	X	X	-	X	374	56		[18]
12	2012	Paris	12–16 September	5	X	X	X	X	X	331	56		[19][1]
13	2014	Munich	21–23 August	1	-	-	X	-	-	509	52	[1]	[20][2]
		Gijón	8–14 September	4	X	X	-	X	X			[2]
14	2016	Paris	14–18 September	5	X	X	X	X	X	533	53	[3]	[21][3][22]
15	2018	Innsbruck	6–16 September	5	X	X	X	X	X	834	58	[4]	[23][4]
16	2019	Briançon	16–17 July	1	-	-	-	-	X
		Hachioji	11–21 August	4	X	X	X	X	-	253	39	[5]	[24][25]
17	2021	Moscow	15–21 September	4	X	X	X	-	X				[26]
18		Bern		?

Medal table[]

As of 2019 (Medals from Paraclimbing are not included in the table)^{[27][circular reference]}

Rank	Nation	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
1	Russia (RUS)	16	12	24	52
2	France (FRA)	12	14	16	42
3	Austria (AUT)	11	6	8	25
4	Ukraine (UKR)	10	7	4	21
5	Slovenia (SLO)	8	5	5	18
6	Czech Republic (CZE)	6	10	4	20
7	China (CHN)	5	3	1	9
8	Italy (ITA)	5	0	1	6
9	Japan (JPN)	4	8	6	18
10	Poland (POL)	4	5	7	16
11	Spain (ESP)	4	4	0	8
12	Switzerland (SUI)	3	1	5	9
13	Canada (CAN)	3	1	0	4
14	United States (USA)	2	6	2	10
15	Belgium (BEL)	2	6	0	8
16	South Korea (KOR)	2	5	1	8
17	Germany (GER)	1	4	8	13
18	Iran (IRN)	1	1	1	3
19	Kazakhstan (KAZ)	0	1	3	4
20	Venezuela (VEN)	0	1	0	1
21	Great Britain (GBR)	0	0	3	3
22	Netherlands (NED)	0	0	1	1
	Serbia (SRB)	0	0	1	1
Totals (23 nations)		99	100	101	300

Men's Results[]

Lead[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
1991	François Legrand	Yuji Hirayama
1993	François Legrand (2)	Stefan Glowacz	Yuji Hirayama
1995	François Legrand (3)
1997	François Petit	Chris Sharma	François Legrand
1999		Yuji Hirayama
2001		Tomáš Mrázek	François Petit
2003	Tomáš Mrázek	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
2005	Tomáš Mrázek (2)	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza	Alexandre Chabot
2007	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza	Tomáš Mrázek
2009	Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza	Adam Ondra	David Lama
2011	Ramón Julián Puigblanque (2)	Jakob Schubert	Adam Ondra
2012	Jakob Schubert	Sean McColl	Adam Ondra
2014	Adam Ondra	Ramón Julián Puigblanque	Sachi Amma
2016	Adam Ondra (2)	Jakob Schubert
2018	Jakob Schubert (2)	Adam Ondra	Alexander Megos
2019	Adam Ondra (3)	Alexander Megos	Jakob Schubert

Bouldering[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
2001			Christian Core
2003	Christian Core	Jérôme Meyer
2005		Kilian Fischhuber
2007	Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009	Alexey Rubtsov
2011	Dmitri Sarafutdinov (2)	Adam Ondra
2012	Dmitri Sarafutdinov (3)	Kilian Fischhuber
2014	Adam Ondra	Jernej Kruder	Jan Hojer
2016	Tomoa Narasaki	Adam Ondra
2018	Kai Harada	Jongwon Chon
2019	Tomoa Narasaki (2)	Jakob Schubert

Speed[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
1991	Hans Florine
1993
1995
1997
1999
2001
2003	(2)
2005
2007		Manuel Escobar
2009 (10 m)	(2)
2009 (15 m)[28]	(3)
2011	(4)		Danyil Boldyrev
2012	(5)
2014	Danyil Boldyrev		Reza Alipour
2016	Marcin Dzieński	Reza Alipour
2018	Reza Alipour	Bassa Mawem
2019	Ludovico Fossali
2021	Danyil Boldyrev (2)

Combined[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
2012[1]	Sean McColl
2014[2]	Sean McColl (2)	Jan Hojer
2016[3][22]	Sean McColl (3)
2018[4]	Jakob Schubert	Adam Ondra	Jan Hojer
2019	Tomoa Narasaki	Jakob Schubert	Rishat Khaibullin

Women's Results[]

Lead[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
1991		Isabelle Patissier	Robyn Erbesfield
1993	(2)	Robyn Erbesfield	Isabelle Patissier
1995	Robyn Erbesfield		Liv Sansoz
1997	Liv Sansoz	Muriel Sarkany
1999	Liv Sansoz (2)	Muriel Sarkany
2001		Muriel Sarkany
2003	Muriel Sarkany		Sandrine Levet
2005	Angela Eiter	Emily Harrington	Akiyo Noguchi
2007	Angela Eiter (2)	Muriel Sarkany	Maja Vidmar
2009	Johanna Ernst	Kim Ja-in	Maja Vidmar
2011	Angela Eiter (3)	Kim Ja-in
2012	Angela Eiter (4)	Kim Ja-in	Johanna Ernst
2014	Kim Ja-in	Mina Markovič
2016	Janja Garnbret	Anak Verhoeven	Mina Markovič
2018	Jessica Pilz	Janja Garnbret	Kim Ja-in
2019	Janja Garnbret (2)	Mia Krampl	Ai Mori

Bouldering[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
2001		Sandrine Levet
2003	Sandrine Levet
2005
2007	Anna Stöhr	Akiyo Noguchi
2009			Anna Stöhr
2011	Anna Stöhr (2)	Sasha DiGiulian
2012			Anna Stöhr
2014		Alex Puccio	Akiyo Noguchi
2016	Petra Klingler	Miho Nonaka	Akiyo Noguchi
2018	Janja Garnbret	Akiyo Noguchi	Staša Gejo
2019	Janja Garnbret (2)	Akiyo Noguchi	Shauna Coxsey
2021	Natalia Grossman		Staša Gejo

Speed[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
1991
1993
1995
1997
1999
2001
2003	(2)
2005	(3)
2007	(2)
2009 (10 m)
2009 (15 m)	(2)
2011
2012		Iuliia Kaplina
2014			Aleksandra Rudzińska
2016		Anouck Jaubert	Iuliia Kaplina
2018	Aleksandra Mirosław
2019	Aleksandra Mirosław (2)		Anouck Jaubert
2021		Iuliia Kaplina	Aleksandra Mirosław

Combined[]

Year	Gold	Silver	Bronze
2012	Kim Ja-in		Petra Klingler
2014[2]		Petra Klingler	Mina Markovič
2016[3][22]
2018[4]	Janja Garnbret		Jessica Pilz
2019	Janja Garnbret (2)	Akiyo Noguchi	Shauna Coxsey

See also[]

• International Federation of Sport Climbing
• IFSC Climbing World Cup
• IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships
• IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships
• IFSC Climbing European Championships
• IFSC Climbing Asian Championships
• Best IFSC results

References[]

External links[]

• "Calendar of IFSC competitions". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
• "IFSC Rules". www.ifsc-climbing.org.