2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Esforta Arena Hachioji 2019c.jpg
Entrance of the Esforta Arena in Hachioji
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
LocationJapan Hachioji, Japan
Date11 – 21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
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The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

Medal summary[]

Medalists[]

Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Alexander Megos (GER)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's Bouldering  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)   (GER)
Men's Speed  Ludovico Fossali (ITA)   (CZE)   (RUS)
Men's Combined  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's Lead  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Mia Krampl (SLO)  Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's Bouldering  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's Speed  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)   (CHN)  Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's Combined  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table[]

  *   Host nation (Japan)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Slovenia3104
2 Japan*2215
3 Czech Republic1102
4 Italy1001
 Poland1001
6 Austria0213
7 Germany0112
8 China0101
9 Great Britain0022
10 France0011
 Kazakhstan0011
 Russia0011
Totals (12 nations)88824

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics[]

Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men Women

 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickael Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)
 TBD (JPN)*

 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
 TBD (JPN)*

*  Japan had qualified two quota places in each event, with the climbers still to be named.

Schedule[]

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed C Combined
August 2019 11th
Sun 		12th
Mon 		13th
Tue 		14th
Wed 		15th
Thu 		16th
Fri 		17th
Sat 		18th
Sun 		19th
Mon 		20th
Tue 		21st
Wed
Men B B B L L L Rest day S S C C
Women B C C

Bouldering[]

Women[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[7]
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5t5z 5 5 3t4z 7 6 3T3z 8 8
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 5t5z 9 9 2t4z 3 8 2T2z 4 2
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 3t5z 6 9 0t3z 0 6 2T2z 6 6
4 Ukraine 4t5z 14 14 1t2z 2 3 1T2z 3 4
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t4z 4 8 0t3z 0 5 1T2z 5 6
6 Japan 5t5z 12 10 1t2z 1 5 0T1z 0 1

Men[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4t4z 8 5 2t4z 2 4 2T4z 12 20
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 3t4z 5 6 1t4z 3 12 0T3z 0 10
3 Germany 3t5z 5 14 2t4z 13 16 0T3z 0 13
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 4t4z 5 5 2t4z 5 6 0T3z 0 18
5 Japan 3t5z 6 8 2t4z 5 10 0T2z 0 9
6 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 5t5z 6 6 3t4z 11 7 0T0z 0 0

Lead[]

Women[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.22 38+ 43+
2 Slovenia Mia Krampl 35+ 6 32 7 7.35 34 39+
3 Japan Ai Mori 39+ 2 TOP 1 1.73 34+ 38+
4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 34 8 38 4 5.66 32 38+
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 34+ 7 33+ 6 6.48 32 38+
6 Austria Jessica Pilz 37+ 3 31+ 12 8.26 30+ 35+
7 Slovenia 28 21 31+ 12 21.18 35 30+
8 France Julia Chanourdie 31+ 10 31+ 12 14.97 30+ 30+

Men[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP 1 31 22 9.07 37+ 34+
2 Germany Alex Megos TOP 1 32+ 7 6.06 40+ 33+
3 Austria Jakob Schubert TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 30+ 33+
4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 38 30
5 Canada Sean McColl 31+ 9 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 30
6 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 28+ 18 TOP 1 8.05 29+ 29+
7 Japan Kai Harada 32+ 8 TOP 1 5.29 31+ 28+
8 Sweden 29+ 11 32+ 7 11.68 29+ 27+

Speed[]

Women[]

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
16   (CHN) 7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
  (POL) 8.008
8   (POL) 8.114
9   (RUS) fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN) fall
4  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
13   (POL) 7.789
  (POL) 7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
5  YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
12   (POL) 7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
  (CHN) 8.363
2   (RUS) 7.454
15   (ECU) 8.202
  (RUS) 7.998
  (CHN) 7.814
7   (POL) 7.895
10   (CHN) 7.871
  (CHN) 7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
3  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409 Small final
14   (FRA) 10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663  YiLing Song (CHN) 9.76
  (RUS) 10.188  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.53
6   (RUS) 7.747
11   (CHN) 8.080

Men[]

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1   (RUS) 6.150
16   (RUS) 5.944
  (RUS) 5.808
  (UKR) 5.863
8   (RUS) fall
9   (UKR) 6.232
  (RUS) fall
  (CZE) 5.986
4  Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
13   (USA) 9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
  (CZE) 6.219
5   (CHN) 6.441
12   (CZE) 6.136
  (CZE) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
2  Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
15   (CHN) 5.580
  (CHN) FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
7   (KAZ) fall
10  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
3  Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470 Small final
14  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613   (RUS) 5.83
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.93
6  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
11   (CHN) 6.072

WC - Wildcard
FS - False start

Combined[]

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]

Women[]

[14]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20
4 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+
6 Japan Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top
7 Japan Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27
8 Switzerland Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+

Men[]

[15]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top
3 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22
4 Japan Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30
5 Japan Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+
7 France Mickael Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20
8 Germany Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. ^ a b "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. ^ "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. ^ a b "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  13. ^ "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  15. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.

External links[]

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