Tomoa Narasaki

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Tomoa Narasaki
Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2017-08-19 2373.jpg
Tomoa Narasaki in Munich, 2017
Personal information
NationalityJapan
Born (1996-06-22) June 22, 1996 (age 25)
Utsunomiya, Japan
OccupationProfessional sport climber and boulderer
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)
Spouse(s)Akiyo Noguchi (m. 2021~)
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering
Ape index+10 cm (4 in)
Known forWorld Cup winner and World Champion
Medal record
World Cup
Winner 2016 Bouldering
Second place 2017 Bouldering
Winner 2017 Combined
Second place 2018 Bouldering
Second place 2018 Combined
Winner 2019 Bouldering
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2016 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2019 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2019 Combined
Silver medal – second place 2021 Bouldering
Asian Games
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Combined
Updated on June 9, 2019.

Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer.

He started climbing when he was 10 years old together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi’s family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.[1] In 2016, he won both the Bouldering World Championship and the Bouldering World Cup and in 2019 he won the Bouldering World Cup.[2] His younger brother Meichi Narasaki is also a professional sport climber.[3]

In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics by winning gold in the IFSC Climbing World Championships.[4]

He holds the Japanese record for speed climbing with a time of 5.73 seconds, obtained in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition,[5] and is credited with creating the "Tomoa skip", a speed climbing maneuver that bypasses one of the lower holds on the speed climbing course.[6]

Rankings[]

See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[7][]

Discipline 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead 52 - - - 15 16 20 32
Bouldering - 26 30 1 2 2 1 6
Speed - - - - 84 52 44 59
Combined - - - - 1 2 1 -

Climbing World Championships[8][]

Discipline 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021
Lead - - - - -
Bouldering 27 12 - 1 2
Speed - - - - -
Combined - - 5 1 -

World Cup podiums[]

Lead[8][]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2017 2 2
2018 1 1
2019 1 1
Total 0 2 2 4

Bouldering[8][]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2016 2 3 5
2017 4 4
2018 1 2 1 4
2019 1 3 4
2021 1 1 2
Total 4 13 2 20

Personal[]

On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese sport climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[9]

References[]

  1. ^ "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics". 8a.nu. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  2. ^ "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title". The Japan Times. 9 June 2019. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
  3. ^ "NARASAKI CONTINUES TO DOMINATE". IFSC Climbing. Retrieved 2 September 2019.
  4. ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (21 August 2019). "Tomoa Narasaki climbs to gold at world championships, punches ticket for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  5. ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Gets Personal Best in Speed Climbing". Gripped. March 8, 2021.
  6. ^ "Tomoa Narasaki raring to scale Olympic walls in sport climbing debut". Kyodo News. August 2, 201. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
  7. ^ IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
  8. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "Narasaki's profile and rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
  9. ^ "Japanese sport climbing stars Noguchi, Narasaki announce marriage". Kyodo News. December 26, 2021. Retrieved December 28, 2021.

External links[]

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