2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships

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2021 World Championships
Logo of the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships
VenueIrina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and CSKA Universal Sports Hall[1]
LocationRussia Moscow, Russia
Dates16–21 September 2021
Competitors302[1] from 41[2] nations
 →
Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace, venue for the final rounds of all three disciplines

The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships was the 17th edition of the event. It was held in Moscow, Russia from 16 to 21 September 2021, alongside the 2021 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.[3]

Although the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) had banned Russia from hosting or bidding for a world championship event in any sport until December 2022 due to several doping violations, the IFSC announced in February 2021 that the event would remain in Russia, echoing the Court of Arbitration for Sport's ruling that events had to be reassigned "unless it is legally or practically impossible to do so."[4]

Two venues were used during the championships: the Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace and the CSKA Universal Sports Hall.[2]

Medalists[]

Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead  Jakob Schubert (AUT)   (SLO)   (GBR)
Men's Bouldering  Kokoro Fujii (JPN)  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)   (FRA)
Men's Speed  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)   (ESP)  Noah Bratschi (USA)
Men's Combined   (GER)   (GER)   (UKR)
Women's Lead  Seo Chae-hyun (KOR)  Natalia Grossman (USA)  Laura Rogora (ITA)
Women's Bouldering  Natalia Grossman (USA)   (ITA)  Staša Gejo (SRB)
Women's Speed   (POL) Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina (CFR)[a]  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
Women's Combined  Jessica Pilz (AUT)  Mia Krampl (SLO)   (IRI)

Medal table[]

  *   Host nation ( Climbing Federation of Russia)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Austria2002
2 United States1113
3 Germany1102
 Japan1102
5 Poland1012
 Ukraine1012
7 South Korea1001
8 Slovenia0202
9 Italy0112
10Climbing Federation of Russia Climbing Federation of Russia*0101
 Spain0101
12 France0011
 Great Britain0011
 Iran0011
 Serbia0011
Totals (15 nations)88824

Broadcast incident[]

On 18 September, the IFSC issued an apology after broadcasters showed a close-up of chalk handprints on Austrian climber 's bottom during the women's bouldering semi-finals in the event live feed. The federation removed the feed from its YouTube channel and re-uploaded an edited video without the footage it described as "objectification of the human body." This incident marked the second time in the season that the IFSC apologised for sexualised imagery, after a similar footage of Färber appeared on the live feed of the Innsbruck World Cup in June 2021.[6]

Schedule[]

All times and dates use Moscow Time (UTC+3:00)[7]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed
September 2021 16th
Thu 		17th
Fri 		18th
Sat 		19th
Sun 		20th
Mon 		21st
Tue
Men S S B B B L L L
Women B B

Lead[]

Men[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 38 3 33+ 5 4.69 40+ TOP
2 Slovenia 36+ 8 29+ 9 9.25 40+ TOP
3 United Kingdom 38 3 33+ 5 3.32 TOP 46+
4 Czech Republic 36+ 8 28 18 13.44 40+ 46
5 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 37+ 6 36+ 1 2.55 38 46
6 Germany 36 12 30 8 10.39 40 44+
7 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 36+ 8 35 2 4.87 37+ 44+
8 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 36 12 26 29 19.79 40 34+

Women[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun TOP 1 TOP 1 1.73 TOP TOP
2 United States Natalia Grossman TOP 1 41 4 2.45 TOP 37 (4:22)
3 Italy Laura Rogora 44 3 TOP 1 2.45 TOP 37 (5:01)
4 Austria Jessica Pilz 36+ 9 37+ 17 13.44 41+ 36+
5 United States Brooke Raboutou 37+ 5 40+ 5 5.48 39+ 35+
6 Japan 42 19 38+ 14 26.52 41+ 32+
7 Climbing Federation of Russia 37+ 5 39+ 6 7.55 39+ 32+
8 France 34+ 13 37+ 17 16.88 40 25+

Bouldering[]

Men[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
1 Japan Kokoro Fujii 5t5z 9 6 2t4z 3 12 4t4z 6 6
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4t45z 8 6 3t3z 7 5 3t3z 6 6
3 France 4t5z 13 11 3t3z 8 5 2t3z 2 3
4 Climbing Federation of Russia Aleksey Rubtsov 3t5z 6 7 2t3z 9 6 2t3z 7 5
5 Israel 3t4z 10 11 2t3z 3 5 0t2z 0 9
6 Slovenia 4t5z 11 8 2t3z 7 7 0t2z 0 10

Women[]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[11]
1 United States Natalia Grossman 4t5z 8 11 4t4z 8 8 4t4z 7 7
2 Italy 3t4z 7 14 4t4z 15 13 4t4z 13 11
3 Serbia Staša Gejo 4t4z 11 6 2t4z 4 9 2T4z 5 7
4 Climbing Federation of Russia 4t5z 8 8 3t4z 8 9 2t4z 2 4
5 United States Brooke Raboutou 5t5z 8 6 3t3z 11 11 2t3z 3 4
6 Switzerland 3t5z 5 8 3t3z 11 9 1t3z 3 3

Speed[]

Men[]

Final bracket[12]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
Poland Marcin Dzieński		5.83
16
Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin		5.76
Kazakhstan Rishat KhaibullinFall
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev5.80
8
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev		5.844
9
Italy 		5.849
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev6.14
France 6.47
4
United States 		5.72
13
Climbing Federation of Russia 		Fall
United States Fall
France 7.76
5
Climbing Federation of Russia 		6.07
12
France 		5.75
Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev5.73
Spain 5.95
2
Climbing Federation of Russia 		Fall
15
Austria 		6.01
Austria 5.98
Spain 5.87
7
Iran Reza Alipour		5.75
10
Spain 		5.70
Spain 5.74
United States Noah Bratschi6.06 Third place
3
Climbing Federation of Russia Vladislav Deulin		6.06
14
France 		6.17
Climbing Federation of Russia Vladislav DeulinFallFrance 8.46
United States Noah Bratschi5.84 United States Noah Bratschi6.31
6
United States Noah Bratschi		5.77
11
Kazakhstan 		5.91

Women[]

Final bracket[13]
Round of 16QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinal
              
1
Poland Aleksandra Mirosław		7.37
16
Austria 		12.37
Poland Aleksandra Mirosław7.10
France 7.55
8
France 		7.67
9
Poland 		7.72
Poland Aleksandra MirosławFall
Poland 7.07
4
Poland 		7.44
13
Poland 		7.87
Poland 7.15
Climbing Federation of Russia 7.30
5
Climbing Federation of Russia 		7.69
12
Italy 		8.13
Poland 7.18
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina8.94
2
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina		7.31
15
Germany 		8.06
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina7.60
Poland Fall
7
Poland 		7.73
10
Climbing Federation of Russia 		8.17
Climbing Federation of Russia Iuliia Kaplina7.09
Climbing Federation of Russia 8.89 Third place
3
United States 		9.29
14
Ukraine 		Fall
United States 9.41Poland Aleksandra Mirosław7.00
Climbing Federation of Russia 7.61 Climbing Federation of Russia 8.47
6
Climbing Federation of Russia 		7.58
11
Ecuador 		8.16

Combined[]

Men[]

Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[14]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
1st place, gold medalist(s) Germany 9 1 15 1 42 9 9.0
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany 22 3 23 2 41 8 48.0
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Ukraine 19 2 41 3 43 10 60.0
4 Germany Jan Hojer 32 4 43 4 32 4 64.0
5 Ecuador 60 5 69 7 19 2 70.0
6 Ukraine 89 9 85 10 17 1 90.0
7 Chinese Taipei 72 7 55 6 37 6 252.0
8 Ukraine 65 6 47 5 48 15 450.0
9 Ecuador 91 10 85 10 34 5 500.0
10 Ukraine 96 14 94 13 30 3 546.0
11 Ecuador 83 8 85 10 39 7 560.0
12 India 93 11.5 85 10 46 13 1495.0
13 Turkey 97 15 85 10 44 11 1650.0
14 South Africa 93 11.5 96 14 45 12 1932.0
15 Turkey 95 13 97 15 47 14 2730.0

Women[]

Rank Name Lead Bouldering Speed Total[15]
Rank Pts Rank Pts Rank Pts
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 4 1 35 5 24 4 20.0
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia Mia Krampl 19 3 29 4 23 3 36.0
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Iran 35 7 18 1 27 6 42.0
4 Kazakhstan 61 10 43 7.5 18 1 75.0
5 Germany 22 4 23 2.5 33 9 90.0
6 Germany 31 5 23 2.5 30 8 100.0
7 Ukraine 17 2 37 6 36 11 132.0
8 Ukraine 69 11 73 11 20 2 242.0
9 Iran 50 8 49 9 25 5 360.0
10 Ukraine 57 9 43 7.5 28 7 472.5
11 Ukraine 33 6 63 10 35 10 600.0

Notes[]

  1. ^ Russian athletes not banned for or suspected of doping were allowed to compete in this event as "neutral athletes". Records by Russian athletes are credited to the Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR).[5]

See also[]

External links[]

References[]

  1. ^ a b Более 300 спортсменов выступят на Чемпионате мира по скалолазанию в Москве
  2. ^ a b Shefferd, Neil (16 September 2021). "Boldyrev and Kalucka take speed titles on opening day of IFSC World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  3. ^ "World Championships Schedule and Livestream Links". GymClimber. 15 September 2021. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  4. ^ Rest, Jonathan (19 February 2021). "IFSC stands by World Championships in Russia despite WADA hosting ban". Sportcal.
  5. ^ Dunbar, Graham (17 December 2020). "Russia can't use its name and flag at the next 2 Olympics". Associated Press. Retrieved 17 September 2021.
  6. ^ Lock, Samantha (20 September 2021). "Close-up Footage of Climber's Butt Prompts Apology From Sporting Body". Newsweek. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  7. ^ "IFSC - Climbing World Championships (B,L,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2021". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  8. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Men lead". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  9. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - General result Women lead". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  10. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER Men". IFSC. Retrieved 20 September 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) - MOSCOW 2021 - GENERAL RESULT BOULDER WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  13. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT SPEED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 18 September 2021.
  14. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED MEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
  15. ^ "IFSC – CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS (B,L,S) – MOSCOW 2021 – GENERAL RESULT COMBINED WOMEN". IFSC. Retrieved 23 September 2021.
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