Speed climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Speed climbing
at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates12 April – 20 October 2019
Champions
MenFrance Bassa Mawem
WomenChina YiLing Song
← 2018
2021 →

Speed climbing competitions at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at six locations, from 12 April to 20 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Bassa Mawem won the men's seasonal title, YiLing Song won the women's seasonal title, and Russian Federation defended its national team title.[1][2]

Winners overview[]

Date Location Men Women
April, 12–14 Russia Moscow, Russia France Bassa Mawem China YiLing Song
April, 26–28 China Chongqing, China Indonesia China YiLing Song
May, 3–5 China Wujiang, China Russia Poland Aleksandra Miroslaw
July, 4–6 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Russia France Anouck Jaubert
July, 11–13 France Chamonix, France Indonesia China YiLing Song
October, 18–20 China Xiamen, China China Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu
OVERALL WINNERS France Bassa Mawem China YiLing Song
NATIONAL TEAM Russia Russian Federation

Records broken[]

Event Round Climber Location Time Date
Women's speed Final China YiLing Song Chongqing, China 7.101[3] April 26, 2019
Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu Xiamen, China 6.995[4] October 19, 2019

Overall ranking[]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[5]

Rank NAME Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1 France Bassa Mawem 329.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 15. (22.00) 1. 100.00
2 Russia Vladislav Deulin 312.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 14. (24.00) 2. 80.00
3 Indonesia 286.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 20. 12.00 10. 34.00 1. 100.00 24. (7.00)
4 China 285.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 7. 43.00 24. 7.00 4. 55.00 ( — )
5 Russia 283.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 16. (20.00) 8. 40.00
6 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar 236.00 6. 47.00 23. (8.00) 8. 40.00 4. 55.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00
7 Russia 234.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 16. 20.00 ( — ) 3. 65.00 6. 47.00
8 Russia 203.00 12. 28.00 14. 24.00 1. 100.00 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51.00
9 Ukraine 181.00 22. 9.00 11. 31.00 19. 14.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 ( — )
10 Czech Republic 162.00 24. (7.00) 18. 16.00 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 18. 16.00 15. 22.00

Women[]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[6]

Rank NAME Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1 China YiLing Song 460.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 16. (20.00) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00
2 France Anouck Jaubert 355.00 4. 55.00 16. (20.00) 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00
3 Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 333.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 19. (14.00) 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 6. 47.00
4 Russia 261.00 29. (2.00) 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 5. 51.00
5 China 201.00 7. 43.00 15. 22.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 ( — )
6 Russia 197.00 ( — ) ( — ) 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 8. 40.00 4. 55.00
7 Poland 194.00 20. (12.00) 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 8. 40.00 14. 24.00 7. 43.00
8 Poland 188.00 ( — ) 7. 43.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 16. 20.00 11. 31.00
9 Poland Aleksandra Miroslaw 180.00 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 ( — )
10 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 172.00 18. 16.00 ( — ) ( — ) 13. 26.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00

National Teams[]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[7]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Chamonix Villars Wujiang Chongqing Moscow
1 Russia Russian Federation 1637 318 294 383 293 (292) 349
2 China People's Republic of China 1375 343 268 263 209 292 (180)
3 France France 1004 204 (113) 219 215 129 237
4 Indonesia Indonesia 979 172 232 (46) 187 250 138
5 Poland Poland 874 (59) 210 149 217 184 114
6 Ukraine Ukraine 328 35 86 61 57 89 ( — )
7 Iran Islamic Republic of Iran 257 51 (8) 40 55 51 60
8 Italy Italy 250 (0) 15 50 83 12 90
9 Ecuador Ecuador 195 26 65 35 36 (22) 33
10 Czech Republic Czech Republic 162 (7) 16 65 43 16 22

Moscow, Russia (April, 12–14)[]

Men[]

91 men attended the event.[8]

France's Bassa Mawem took the win. Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed second while Indonesia's placed third. World record holder, Iran's Reza Alipourshenazandifar placed 7th.[9]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) France Bassa Mawem 5.730 5.656 5.761 5.792 5.699
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Vladislav Deulin 11.545 5.919 5.864 6.021 5.874
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Indonesia 6.083 Sturz 6.617 6.780 5.838
4 China 10.004 6.663 9.391 5.797 5.731
5 Russia 7.126 5.891 6.096
6 Russia 7.263 5.908 5.809
7 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar 7.587 5.922 5.826
8 Russia Sturz 5.927 5.913
9 Russia 6.068 6.207
10 Russia 6.094 6.163
11 Kazakhstan 6.096 6.083
12 Italy 6.310 6.230
13 Russia 6.804 6.162
14 Italy Ludovico Fossali 6.960 6.157
15 Czech Republic 7.665 6.222
16 Russia 7.681 6.138

Women[]

76 women attended the event.[10]

China's YiLing Song won her first gold medal in the World Cup circuit after a tight race in the final against France's Anouck Jaubert who took second place. Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took third place.[9]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) China YiLing Song 7.389 7.435 7.723 7.668 7.880
2nd place, silver medalist(s) France Anouck Jaubert 7.682 8.363 7.800 8.372 8.024
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia Iuliia Kaplina 8.233 7.444 7.562 7.721 7.464
4 Russia Sturz Sturz 7.833 8.036 7.999
5 Russia 7.796 7.990 8.130
6 Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.915 7.792 7.711
7 Poland 9.684 8.639 8.438
8 Russia 10.717 8.159 7.860
9 France 8.341 8.462
10 Italy 8.477 8.544
11 Poland 8.480 8.395
12 Ecuador 8.614 8.590
13 Russia 8.815 8.577
14 China 10.019 7.967
15 Poland 10.419 8.259
16 Russia Sturz 8.102

Chongqing, China (April, 26–28)[]

Men[]

85 men attended the event.[11]

Indonesia's took the win. Ukraine's placed second and Russia's third. France's Bassa Mawem, Moscow's winner, was eliminated early in the competition, placing 15th.[12][13]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia 5.970 6.100 5.961 5.963 5.914
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Ukraine 6.315 5.799 5.997 6.130 6.206
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia 6.808 9.842 6.637 5.813 6.020
4 China Sturz 5.820 5.616 5.912 5.618
5 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar 5.733 5.996 6.115
6 Russia 6.310 6.345 6.263
7 China 7.034 8.427 6.279
8 Indonesia 7.518 6.327 6.212
9 Poland Marcin Dzienski 6.080 6.317
10 China 6.164 6.128
11 Indonesia 6.286 5.876
12 Russia 7.379 6.085
13 China 8.115 5.842
14 Russia Vladislav Deulin 8.936 6.133
15 France Bassa Mawem Sturz 5.677
16 Russia Sturz 5.827

Women[]

74 women attended the event.[14]

China's YiLing Song won her second gold medal. Song also set a new world record (7.101 seconds) in the quarter-final race against Poland’s . Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw took silver and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina took bronze.[12][13]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) China YiLing Song 7.673 7.110 7.101 7.687 7.471
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Poland Aleksandra Miroslaw Sturz 7.368 7.564 7.765 7.484
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia Iuliia Kaplina 8.429 Sturz 8.180 7.491 7.618
4 France Anouck Jaubert Sturz 7.321 7.400 7.818 7.738
5 Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.429 7.652 7.739
6 Russia 7.934 7.939 8.042
7 Poland 7.975 8.245 8.205
8 Russia Sturz 7.957 7.990
9 Russia 7.672 8.218
10 China 8.065 8.212
11 France 8.127 8.358
12 Indonesia 8.274 8.334
13 China 8.281 8.174
14 Poland 8.856 8.312
15 China 8.913 8.213
16 Poland 10.740 8.310

Wujiang, China (May, 3–5)[]

Men[]

85 men attended the event.[15]

Russia's beat France's Bassa Mawem in the final race and claimed the gold medal. Mawem took second place while Italy's Ludovico Fossali took third place.[16]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia 5.597 5.580 5.695 5.856 5.683
2nd place, silver medalist(s) France Bassa Mawem 5.810 5.962 5.855 5.889 5.769
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Italy Ludovico Fossali 5.856 6.566 5.783 6.066 6.182
4 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar 6.436 5.627 5.739 5.904 5.657
5 Russia Vladislav Deulin 5.843 6.015 5.932
6 Ukraine 5.848 5.984 5.964
7 Czech Republic 5.926 6.034 6.059
8 China 8.279 6.438 5.820
9 Indonesia 6.002 6.112
10 Indonesia 6.064 5.812
11 China 6.114 6.028
12 Russia 6.129 6.053
13 Poland Marcin Dzienski 6.202 6.179
14 Russia 6.440 6.138
15 Indonesia 7.097 5.598
16 China 8.354 6.054

Women[]

68 women attended the event.[17]

Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw won the gold medal after a tight final race against Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu. Rahayu placed second while France's Anouck Jaubert placed third. China's YiLing Song, who had just set a new world record last week in Chongqing, slipped in an early race against Poland’s and finished the competition in 16th place.[16]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Poland Aleksandra Miroslaw 7.313 7.280 7.624 7.541 7.285
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.607 7.717 7.828 8.197 7.793
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) France Anouck Jaubert 7.516 7.668 7.778 7.927 7.732
4 Russia 7.541 7.720 8.592 7.838 8.089
5 Poland 7.957 8.028 8.071
6 China 8.811 8.148 8.287
7 France 10.566 8.275 8.233
8 Poland Sturz 9.173 8.291
9 China 8.080 7.971
10 China 8.226 8.219
11 Russia 8.673 7.960
12 Russia 8.985 7.774
13 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 8.991 7.684
14 Poland 9.038 8.368
15 Ecuador 9.807 8.260
16 China YiLing Song 13.652 7.566

Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6)[]

Men[]

84 men attended the event.[18]

Russia's and placed first and second respectively. The Czech Republic’s beat France's Bassa Mawem in the small final and earned a bronze medal.[19]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia 5.542 5.892 6.880 6.355 5.630
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Sturz 5.513 5.735 6.354 5.716
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic 7.765 6.078 5.997 6.182 6.040
4 France Bassa Mawem Sturz 5.573 5.655 5.765 5.686
5 Russia Vladislav Deulin 5.754 5.899 5.956
6 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev 6.011 6.032 5.964
7 China Sturz 20.000 5.873
8 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar Fehlstart 6.075 5.923
9 Italy Ludovico Fossali 5.863 6.142
10 Russia 6.300 5.803
11 China 6.556 5.755
12 China 6.970 5.799
13 Russia 7.367 6.099
14 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 7.499 6.149
15 South Korea Sturz 5.871
16 Russia Fehlstart 5.909

Women[]

73 women attended the event.[20]

France's Anouck Jaubert took the gold medal after winning a final race against China's YiLing Song. Song earned a silver medal while Russia's earned bronze after beating China's in the small final.[19]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) France Anouck Jaubert 7.660 20.000 7.590 7.738 7.638
2nd place, silver medalist(s) China YiLing Song 8.415 7.428 7.239 7.483 7.224
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia 7.586 Fehlstart 7.359 8.746 7.602
4 China 10.657 7.914 8.475 8.171 8.345
5 Poland 7.898 7.996 8.115
6 Russia 8.064 9.248 8.311
7 Poland 8.236 8.277 8.208
8 Russia 9.368 8.799 8.478
9 Poland 8.285 8.257
10 Japan Miho Nonaka 8.432 8.571
11 France 8.478 8.642
12 Ecuador 8.964 8.626
13 China 9.056 7.833
14 Russia 9.288 8.011
15 Poland 9.476 7.959
16 Indonesia 10.137 8.239

Chamonix, France (July, 11–13)[]

Men[]

97 men attended the event.[21]

Indonesia's took the win. China's placed second while Russia's Vladislav Deulin placed third.[22]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia 5.764 5.690 6.037 5.854 6.174
2nd place, silver medalist(s) China 6.382 5.698 5.840 5.986 5.708
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia Vladislav Deulin 6.057 5.799 99.000 6.402 6.055
4 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Sturz 5.848 99.000 5.857 5.862
5 Poland Marcin Dzienski 6.362 6.087 6.035
6 Russia 7.448 5.835 5.980
7 France Bassa Mawem Fehlstart 5.947 5.793
8 United States Fehlstart 6.096 6.097
9 Indonesia 5.878 5.998
10 South Korea 5.943 6.064
11 Ukraine 5.993 6.156
12 Russia 6.180 6.185
13 China 7.407 5.829
14 Russia 7.494 5.918
15 Russia 7.899 5.975
16 Russia Sturz 5.780

Women[]

83 women attended the event.[23]

China's YiLing Song earned a gold medal. Russia's placed second while Poland's placed third.[22]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) China YiLing Song 99.000 7.254 7.291 7.562 7.842
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Fehlstart 7.556 7.686 7.784 7.824
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland 7.661 7.626 7.687 7.825 8.161
4 Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu Sturz 9.808 7.816 7.988 7.885
5 Poland 7.970 8.195 8.493
6 Ecuador 8.318 9.263 8.538
7 Poland 8.347 8.599 8.204
8 Russia 8.548 8.234 8.203
9 Indonesia 8.352 8.719
10 Russia 8.366 8.667
11 China 9.037 8.680
12 Austria 9.037 9.002
13 France 9.090 8.937
14 Russia 9.282 8.508
15 China 9.676 8.780
16 France Anouck Jaubert Sturz 8.886

Xiamen, China (October, 18–20)[]

Men[]

65 men attended the event.[24]

China's won the gold medal. Russia's and Vladislav Deulin placed second and third respectively.[25][26]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) China 7.208 5.568 5.528 5.754 5.490
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Sturz 5.528 6.305 5.733 5.872
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia Vladislav Deulin 5.635 5.560 5.608 5.822 5.832
4 Russia 5.763 5.899 Wildcard 5.922 5.968
5 France Bassa Mawem 5.806 5.855 5.950
6 Iran Reza Alipourshenazandifar 6.366 7.383 5.658
7 Russia 6.457 5.735 5.648
8 Indonesia Fehlstart 5.759 5.668
9 South Korea 5.856 5.988
10 China 5.904 5.953
11 China 5.914 5.967
12 Russia 5.950 5.762
13 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 6.012 5.887
14 France 6.064 6.057
15 Indonesia 6.795 6.041
16 Russia 8.823 5.999

Women[]

51 women attended the event.[27]

Indonesia's Aries Susanti Rahayu set a new world record (6.995 seconds) in the final race against China's YiLing Song and claimed the gold medal. Rahayu also became the first woman in the history to break the 7-second barrier. Song claimed the silver while Russia's claimed the bronze.[25][26]

Rank Name Final Small 1/2 1/4 1/8 Qual.
1st place, gold medalist(s) Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 6.995 7.163 7.311 7.387 7.204
2nd place, silver medalist(s) China YiLing Song 9.032 7.169 7.201 8.699 7.423
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia 7.947 Sturz 7.287 7.554 7.707
4 France Anouck Jaubert 14.375 7.698 7.442 7.770 7.592
5 China 7.398 7.631 8.207
6 China 7.684 8.182 8.097
7 China 8.132 7.763 7.718
8 France 8.226 8.017 8.152
9 Russia 7.985 8.712
10 France 8.159 8.486
11 Poland 8.302 8.415
12 China 8.457 8.508
13 Ukraine 8.715 8.635
14 Ecuador 8.718 8.602
15 South Korea 8.956 8.712
16 China 9.284 8.528

References[]

  1. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  2. ^ "Competition calendar 2019".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  3. ^ "New Women's Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling".
  4. ^ "Aries Susati Pecahkan Rekor Dunia Panjat Tebing". CNN Indonesia. 20 October 2019.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  5. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  6. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N SPEED". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  7. ^ "IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  8. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  9. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Moscow World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-04-15. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  10. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  11. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-04-30. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  13. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC World Cup Chongqing - Boulder & Speed Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  14. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  15. ^ "General result M E N speed".{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  16. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. 2019-05-06. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  17. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  18. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  19. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-08. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  20. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  21. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  22. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-15. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  23. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  24. ^ "General result M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  25. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-10-21. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  26. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  27. ^ "General result W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Retrieved 2021-09-05.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
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