Lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
---|---|
Location | |
Dates | 4 July – 27 October 2019 |
Champions | |
Men | Adam Ondra |
Women | Chaehyun Seo |
Lead climbing competitions at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at six locations, from 4 July to 27 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Adam Ondra won the men's seasonal title, Chaehyun Seo won the women's seasonal title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]
Winners overview[]
Date | Location | Men | Women |
---|---|---|---|
July, 4–6 | Villars, Switzerland | Janja Garnbret | |
July, 11–13 | Chamonix, France | Adam Ondra | Chaehyun Seo |
July, 19–20 | Briancon, France | Chaehyun Seo | |
September, 28–29 | Kranj, Slovenia | Adam Ondra | Chaehyun Seo |
October, 18–20 | Xiamen, China | Adam Ondra | Chaehyun Seo |
October, 26–27 | Inzai, Japan | Jain Kim | |
OVERALL WINNERS | Adam Ondra | Chaehyun Seo | |
NATIONAL TEAM | Japan |
Overall ranking[]
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men[]
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[2]
Rank | NAME | Points | Inzai | Xiamen | Kranj | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Adam Ondra | 300.00 | ( — ) | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | ( — ) | 1. 100.00 | ( — ) |
2 | Alberto Gines Lopez | 256.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. 51.00 | 3. 65.00 | 22. 9.00 | 5. 51.00 | 26. (5.00) |
3 | Sean McColl | 206.00 | 6. 47.00 | 26. (5.00) | 4. 55.00 | 5. 51.00 | 7. 43.00 | 21. 10.00 |
4 | Kai Harada | 195.00 | 25. 6.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | ( — ) | 8. 40.00 | 19. 14.00 |
5 | Stefano Ghisolfi | 190.00 | 3. 65.00 | 13. 25.00 | 6. 47.00 | 15. 22.00 | 26. (5.00) | 11. 31.00 |
6 | 180.00 | 1. 100.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 2. 80.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
7 | Kokoro Fujii | 165.00 | 20. 12.00 | 11. 31.00 | 5. 51.00 | ( — ) | 11. 31.00 | 8. 40.00 |
7 | Alexander Megos | 165.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | 16. 20.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 |
9 | Sean Bailey | 158.00 | 8. 40.00 | 8. 40.00 | 14. 24.00 | 6. 47.00 | 24. 7.00 | ( — ) |
10 | 152.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | 13. 26.00 | 13. 26.00 | 1. 100.00 |
Women[]
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[3]
Rank | NAME | Points | Inzai | Xiamen | Kranj | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chaehyun Seo | 480.00 | 3. (65.00) | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 |
2 | Janja Garnbret | 352.00 | 2. 80.00 | 4. 55.00 | 13. (26.00) | 2. 80.00 | 9. 37.00 | 1. 100.00 |
3 | 243.00 | 6. 47.00 | 5. 51.00 | ( — ) | 3. 65.00 | 8. 40.00 | 8. 40.00 | |
4 | 226.00 | 16. (20.00) | 6. 47.00 | 3. 65.00 | 14. 24.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 47.00 | |
5 | Akiyo Noguchi | 224.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 10. 34.00 | 4. 55.00 |
6 | Ai Mori | 220.00 | 20. 12.00 | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | ( — ) | 4. 55.00 | 3. 65.00 |
7 | 207.00 | ( — ) | 7. 43.00 | ( — ) | 6. 47.00 | 2. 80.00 | 9. 37.00 | |
8 | Jain Kim | 206.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 9. 37.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 27. 4.00 |
9 | Mia Krampl | 189.00 | 22. 9.00 | 24. (7.00) | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 11. 31.00 | 5. 51.00 |
10 | Jessica Pilz | 176.00 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 2. 80.00 | ( — ) | 3. 65.00 | 11. 31.00 |
National Teams[]
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[4]
Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank | Nation | Points | Inzai | Xiamen | Kranj | Briançon | Chamonix | Villars |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Japan | 1695 | 345 | 368 | 306 | 375 | (220) | 301 |
2 | Slovenia | 988 | (109) | 112 | 210 | 224 | 139 | 303 |
3 | Republic of Korea | 758 | 174 | 206 | 137 | 116 | (106) | 125 |
4 | United States of America | 612 | 151 | 103 | 75 | 179 | 104 | (22) |
5 | Austria | 525 | (47) | 53 | 143 | 91 | 166 | 72 |
6 | Czech Republic | 484 | 18 | 136 | 146 | (0) | 147 | 37 |
7 | France | 440 | 66 | (44) | 65 | 112 | 111 | 86 |
8 | Italy | 434 | 115 | 90 | 91 | 87 | (29) | 51 |
9 | Germany | 381 | (24) | 79 | 30 | 51 | 138 | 83 |
10 | Great Britain | 360 | 68 | 62 | (31) | 75 | 110 | 45 |
Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6)[]
97 men and 86 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, Switzerland's topped the final route and claimed victory in front of his home crowd. China's YuFei Pan and Germany's Alexander Megos, also topped the final route, placed second and third respectively due to count-backs to the semi-final. Japan's Tomoa Narasaki, who was leading in the semi-final round, stepped on the rope and slipped, taking sixth place.[5][6]
In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was the winner of the event. In the semi-final round, Garnbret claimed the only top of the route despite dropping her chalk bag.[7] South Korea's 15-year-old Chaehyun Seo took second place in her first adult World Cup competition. Japan's Ai Mori, also 15 years old, took third place. South Korea's Jain Kim was forced to withdraw from the competition after suffering a finger injury in the qualification round.[5][6]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
23+ | TOP | 36+ | TOP | Janja Garnbret | TOP | TOP | TOP | 36+ | |||
YuFei Pan | 17+ | TOP | 32 | TOP | Chaehyun Seo | 33+ | 32 | 48+ | 35+ | ||
Alexander Megos | TOP | TOP | 31+ | TOP | Ai Mori | 40+ | 32+ | 47 | 35+ | ||
4 | Domen Škofic | TOP | 37 | 36+ | 39+ | 4 | Akiyo Noguchi | 35+ | 31+ | 42+ | 35+ |
5 | Meichi Narasaki | 32+ | 31+ | 31+ | 39+ | 5 | Mia Krampl | 35+ | 33 | 38 | 35+ |
6 | Tomoa Narasaki | 37+ | 30 | 37+ | 34+ | 6 | 31 | 30+ | 30+ | 35+ | |
7 | 35+ | 30 | 36+ | 22 | 7 | Julia Chanourdie | 28+ | 33+ | 30 | 35+ | |
8 | Kokoro Fujii | 35+ | 29+ | 33+ | 8 | 8 | 33+ | 32+ | 39+ | 35 |
Chamonix, France (July, 11–13)[]
111 men and 103 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra topped both qualification routes, ascended higher than anyone else on the semi-final and final routes, and thus securing the win. Germany's Alexander Megos took second place while Austria's Jakob Schubert took third. Ondra would skip the Briancon's event to prepare for the World Championships.[8][9]
In women's, the final's bottleneck led to count-backs to semi-final results. Eventually, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win. China's placed second and Austria's Jessica Pilz third. The winner of last week's event, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret slipped on the semi-final route, placing 9th, barely missing the final. This was the first time Garnbret ever missed a Lead World Cup final.[8][9]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
Adam Ondra | TOP | TOP | 44+ | 47+ | Chaehyun Seo | TOP | TOP | 50 | 34+ | ||
Alexander Megos | 40+ | TOP | 35 | 44 | 36+ | 39+ | 50 | 34+ | |||
Jakob Schubert | 32+ | TOP | 36+ | 43+ | Jessica Pilz | 41+ | 26+ | 50 | 34+ | ||
4 | 21.5+ | 40 | 38+ | 39+ | 4 | Ai Mori | 35+ | 41+ | 45 | 34+ | |
5 | Alberto Gines Lopez | 20+ | TOP | 42+ | 33+ | 5 | Ashima Shiraishi | 41+ | 36+ | 42+ | 34+ |
6 | 30+ | 41+ | 35+ | 31+ | 6 | 24 | 36+ | 42+ | 26+ | ||
7 | Sean McColl | 21.5+ | 36+ | 36 | 25+ | 7 | 42 | 26+ | 49+ | 25+ | |
8 | Kai Harada | 32+ | TOP | 38+ | 22 | 8 | 37+ | 26+ | 52+ | 17+ |
Briancon, France (July, 19–20)[]
88 men and 79 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. claimed the win, placed second, and placed third. None of them had been on a World Cup podium before.[10][11]
In women's, last week's winner, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win again. Seo and Slovenian superstar Janja Garnbret topped the final route, but Seo pushed Garnbret to second place by count-back to the semi-final results. Japan's placed third.[10][11]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
39+ | 42+ | 31+ | 39+ | Chaehyun Seo | 39+ | TOP | TOP | TOP | |||
40+ | 42+ | 38+ | 38+ | Janja Garnbret | 38+ | TOP | 43+ | TOP | |||
41 | 40+ | 34 | 38+ | 39+ | TOP | 43+ | 41+ | ||||
4 | 39+ | 40 | 37+ | 38 | 4 | Mia Krampl | 37 | 35+ | 43 | 36 | |
5 | Sean McColl | 40 | 43+ | 36+ | 38 | 5 | Ashima Shiraishi | 30+ | 35+ | 41+ | 36 |
6 | Sean Bailey | 40+ | 42+ | 38+ | 34+ | 6 | 31+ | 35+ | 42+ | 33+ | |
7 | Domen Škofic | 40+ | 43+ | 32+ | 34+ | 7 | 30 | 35+ | 37.5 | 32+ | |
8 | 40+ | 38+ | 32+ | 34+ | 8 | 22+ | 26 | 37.5+ | 24+ |
Kranj, Slovenia (September, 28–29)[]
72 men and 53 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, claimed the only top of the final route, securing the win. Japan's Kai Harada took second place and Spain's Alberto Gines Lopez took third.[12][13][14]
In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo continued her winning streak, claiming her third gold medal. Austria's Jessica Pilz took second place and Slovenia's took third. Japan's Ai Mori topped both qualification routes and led the field in the semi-fnal round, but struggled in the final and had to settle for 5th place. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, struggled in the semi-final and placed 13th. This event marked the return of South Korea's Jain Kim to the World Cup circuit after her finger injury. Kim placed 9th, barely missing a spot in the final.[12][13][14]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
Adam Ondra | TOP | TOP | 39+ | TOP | Chaehyun Seo | TOP | 29+ | 38 | 34.5+ | ||
Kai Harada | TOP | TOP | 35+ | 32 | Jessica Pilz | TOP | 29+ | 34+ | 34.5 | ||
Alberto Gines Lopez | TOP | TOP | 29+ | 31.5+ | 36+ | 29+ | 38+ | 34+ | |||
4 | Sean McColl | 37+ | 35 | 27+ | 30+ | 4 | Anak Verhoeven | TOP | 35+ | 34+ | 34+ |
5 | Kokoro Fujii | TOP | TOP | 28+ | 27+ | 5 | Ai Mori | TOP | TOP | 38+ | 20+ |
6 | Stefano Ghisolfi | TOP | TOP | 30+ | 25+ | 6 | TOP | 27+ | 37+ | 20+ | |
7 | Jakob Schubert | 37+ | TOP | 37+ | 12+ | 7 | Mia Krampl | TOP | 32+ | 34+ | 20+ |
8 | 37+ | 35 | 30+ | 12+ | 8 | Mei Kotake | TOP | 23 | 34+ | 20+ |
Xiamen, China (October, 18–20)[]
55 men and 51 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra claimed his third win, undefeated in the lead events he participated in. Japan's and Tomoa Narasaki placed second third respectively. Japan's Kai Harada led the semi-final round but fell short in the final round, placing 4th.[15][16]
In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo topped all the routes of the event, securing her fourth consecutive win and the overall Lead World Champion title. Japan's Akiyo Noguchi claimed second place, while South Korea's Jain Kim claimed third. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, along with Seo, topped qualification and semi-final routes, but fell trying to jump to the top on the final route, thus finishing in 4th place.[15][16]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
Adam Ondra | TOP | TOP | 31+ | TOP | Chaehyun Seo | TOP | TOP | TOP | TOP | ||
37+ | TOP | 31+ | TOP | Akiyo Noguchi | 35+ | TOP | 38+ | TOP | |||
Tomoa Narasaki | 37 | TOP | 31+ | TOP | Jain Kim | 35+ | TOP | 38+ | TOP | ||
4 | Kai Harada | TOP | TOP | 35+ | 31+ | 4 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | TOP | TOP | 37+ |
5 | Alberto Gines Lopez | TOP | TOP | 31+ | 29+ | 5 | 35+ | TOP | 33.5 | 37+ | |
6 | Meichi Narasaki | 38 | TOP | 31+ | 26 | 6 | TOP | TOP | 33+ | 37+ | |
7 | TOP | TOP | 31+ | 25+ | 7 | 35+ | TOP | TOP | 34+ | ||
8 | Sean Bailey | 37+ | TOP | 31+ | 23+ | 8 | 35+ | TOP | 36+ | 31+ | |
9 | Ai Mori | TOP | TOP | 33+ | 10+ |
Inzai, Japan (October, 26–27)[]
54 men and 52 women attended the event.[1]
In men's, Japan's claimed the gold medal. Spain's Alberto Gines Lopez placed second and Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi third. Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra, absent from the competition, claimed the lead season's champion title.[17][18][19]
In women's, South Korea's veteran Jain Kim topped the final route and secured the win, claiming her 30th gold medal in the World Cup competitions. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was leading the competition coming into the final, but could not match Kim's top in the final round, thus placed second. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo, the lead season's overall champion, finished in third place.[17][18][19]
Men | Women | ||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||
R1 | R2 | R1 | R2 | ||||||||
38+ | 38+ | 32+ | 38+ | Jain Kim | TOP | TOP | 33+ | TOP | |||
Alberto Gines Lopez | 34+ | TOP | TOP | 36+ | Janja Garnbret | TOP | TOP | 41 | 39 | ||
Stefano Ghisolfi | 38+ | TOP | 32+ | 32+ | Chaehyun Seo | 35+ | 35+ | 33+ | 37+ | ||
4 | 38+ | TOP | 31+ | 28+ | 4 | Akiyo Noguchi | TOP | TOP | 30 | 36+ | |
5 | 31+ | 17+ | 30+ | 28+ | 5 | Miho Nonaka | 35+ | TOP | 28+ | 34+ | |
6 | Sean McColl | 38+ | 2+ | 34 | 27+ | 6 | TOP | 35 | 28+ | 34+ | |
7 | 30+ | 33+ | 30+ | 22+ | 7 | Laura Rogora | TOP | 36 | 28+ | 20 | |
8 | Sean Bailey | 35+ | 31+ | 34 | 19+ | 8 | 30+ | 35+ | 29 | 19+ | |
9 | Meichi Narasaki | 31+ | 17+ | 30+ | 19+ |
References[]
- ^ a b c d e f g "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
- ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ "IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
{{cite web}}
: CS1 maint: url-status (link) - ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-08. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 2019 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ Janja Garnbret loses chalkbag and climbs world cup semifinal without chalk?!, retrieved 2021-09-04
- ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-15. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Briançon World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-07-22. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Kranj World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-10-01. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup 2019: Kranj - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "Lead Climbing Results From Kranj 2019 - IFSC Climbing World Cup - Climber News". www.climbernews.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-10-21. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Inzai World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-10-28. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Inzai 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- ^ a b "A Legendary Showing at Inzai World Cup 2019". Gripped Magazine. 2019-10-27. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
- IFSC Climbing World Cup
- 2019 in sport climbing