Tapis (Indonesian weaving style)

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For other uses, see Tapis.

Tapis
Kain tapis.JPG
Tapis being sold at the store in Indonesia
TypeArt Fabric
Materialsilk, cotton, gold, silver
Place of originLampung, Indonesia[1][2][3][4]
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Tapis (Rejang: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional weaving style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia.[5][6][7][8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.[9]

Etymology[]

Tapis of Kauer people, Lampung at the Textile Museum of Canada

The word tapis is derived from the Old Javanese (Kawi) word of "tapih" (ꦠꦥꦶꦃ), which means "the long cloth or fabric to cover".[10]

Production[]

Tapis craftswoman embroider the basic design pattern in the tapis-making process at Lampung, Indonesia

Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery.[11][12] The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric.[11][12] Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins.[11][13][14]

The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste.[15] The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area.[15][16]

Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy.[14] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures.[12] Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery.[17]

Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java[11] and Pisang Island.[18]

Use[]

A Lampungese woman (right) wearing a tapis sarong, with old coins hanging from the bottom

Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration.[14] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs.[19]

Reception[]

Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung.[11] Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication",[20] while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth".[16]

The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners.[11]

Gallery[]

  • Tapis of Kauer people, Lampung at the Textile Museum of Canada

  • Tapis from Lampung c. 18th century (or earlier) at the collection of Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

  • A black and red tapis

See also[]

References[]

Footnotes
  1. ^ Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
  2. ^ Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3). Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  3. ^ Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books Llc.
  4. ^ Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  5. ^ Totton, Mary Louise (2009). Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Hanover, New Hampshire, United States of America: Hood Museum of Art, Dartmouth College. ISBN 978-0944722374.
  6. ^ Mary, Louise Totton (1994). "A Red Ikat Tapis: Ships and the Lands Beyond". Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts. 68 (3). Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  7. ^ Richter, Anne (1994). "Arts and crafts of Indonesia". Chronicle Books Llc.
  8. ^ Wardwell, Anne E (1985). "Tapis: A Rare Sarong from South Sumatra". The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art. 72 (5).
  9. ^ Subagio, Puji Yosep (1999). "North Coast Java Batik" (PDF). Tokyo University. Retrieved 15 March 2021.
  10. ^ Budiman, Hary Ganjar (2013). "Makna dan Nilai Budaya Tapis Inuh pada Masyarakat Pesisir di Lampung Selatan" [The Meaning and Cultural Values of Tapis Inuh in South Lampung Coastal Communities]. Patanjala (in Indonesian). 5 (3). doi:10.30959/patanjala.v5i3.116. Retrieved 4 March 2021.
  11. ^ Jump up to: a b c d e f Oyos Saroso (22 January 2007). "Rusiana Makki, empowering women through 'tapis'". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  12. ^ Jump up to: a b c Maxwell 2003, pp. 112–113
  13. ^ Rodgers, Summerfield & Summerfield 2007, p. 36
  14. ^ Jump up to: a b c Nia S. Kim (10 June 2001). "Lampung offers a whole lot more besides jungle adventures". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  15. ^ Jump up to: a b Maxwell 2003, p. 316
  16. ^ Jump up to: a b Forshee 2006, p. 144
  17. ^ (Maxwell 2003, p. 184)
  18. ^ Backshall 2003, p. 502
  19. ^ Maxwell 2003, p. 319
  20. ^ Stevie Emilia (10 April 2011). "Journeying through textile traditions". The Jakarta Post. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
Bibliography
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