Wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots

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The wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots, was described in several contemporary documents, and many records of her costume have been published.

Mary, Queen of Scots in France, after François Clouet, her high collared doublet in pink or "incarnate" satin is embroidered with triplets of pearls, V&A
Mary in deuil blanc mourning, after François Clouet, Wallace Collection
Mary's pearl embroidered black velvet bonnet, seen here at the National Portrait Gallery, also makes an appearance at Hardwick Hall
Mary's skirts are shaped by a French farthingale in the Blairs Museum portrait
While confined at Lochleven Castle, Mary made a purse for her watch
A version of the so-called "Sheffield Portrait" by a follower of Rowland Lockey, the most familiar image of Mary, featuring devotional jewellery against the black velvet background of the queen's robe, GAC

Clothes for a queen[]

Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587) lived in France between 1548 and 1560 and clothing bought for her is particularly well-documented in the year 1551.[1] Her wedding dress in 1558 was described in some detail. More detailed records of her costume survive from her time in Scotland, with purchases recorded in the royal treasurer's accounts and wardrobe accounts kept by Servais de Condé. Inventories were made of her clothing and her jewellery during her time in Scotland and after she abdicated and went to England. Details of her costume on the day of her execution at Fotheringhay in 1587 were widely reported and circulated in manuscript.[2]

Few details of known of Mary's clothes in infancy in Scotland, except that Margaret Balcomie had an allowance of soap and coal to warm the water to wash her linen. In 1548 her mother, Mary of Guise, asked her envoy Henri Cleutin to buy cloth of gold for a gown for her, from the merchants who served the French court.[3] In France in 1551, her clothes were embroidered with jewels, a white satin skirt front and sleeves featured 120 diamonds and rubies, and coifs for her hair had gold buttons or rubies, sewn by her tailor Nicolas du Moncel.[4] She wore farthingales, and danced in masques (with the French governess Françoise d'Humières) in costumes made with lightweight silver and gold fabrics decorated with silver and gold metallic spangles. These were a type of sequin called papillotes in French.[5]

In 1554 her governess Françoise d'Estainville, Dame de Paroy, wrote to Mary of Guise asking permission to buy two diamonds to lengthen one of Mary's headbands with rubies and pearls. She also wanted to buy a new gown of cloth-of-gold for Mary to wear at the wedding of Nicolas, Count of Vaudémont (1524–1577), and Princess Joanna of Savoy-Nemours (1532–1568) at Fontainebleau. This new costume was intended to emulate the fashion adopted by the French princesses of the blood, Elisabeth of Valois and Claude of France (1547–1575).[6]

Mourning clothes in white and black[]

After her first husband Francis II of France died in 1560, Mary wore a form of mourning called deuil blanc, involving a white pleated cambric veil. Her portrait was drawn by François Clouet, and reproduced in several painted versions made after her death. The paintings indicate either a dark blue or green gown, not present in the drawing.[7] Mary discussed her image as a woman in mourning with the English ambassador Nicholas Throckmorton in the context of sending her portrait to Queen Elizabeth.[8] Throckmorton's letter suggests she was not wearing the deuil when they spoke in August 1560.[9]

The Scottish accounts for November 1561 mention the women of the household transitioning into a "second mourning", or perhaps receiving their second allowance of black velvet mourning clothes.[10] In December 1561, Mary solemnly observed the anniversary of her husband's death with Obertino Solaro, Monsieur de Moret, the ambassador of Savoy. Thomas Randolph noted that the Scottish nobles at court did not wearing mourning "dewle" for the day.[11] Randolph was making plans for Mary's interview with Elizabeth in England, and he thought the Scottish party would be dressed in black cloth, to suit Mary's wearing of mourning clothes and also save money.[12]

Clothing in the inventories and treasurer's accounts[]

During Mary's adult reign in Scotland, purchases of textiles for her clothes and payments for tailors appear in the accounts of the Lord Treasurer. Her mother, Mary of Guise, as Regent (1554-1560) had paid for her clothes from her own French incomes.[13] Mary had a wardrobe as a department of her household, with several officers and artisans including tailors and embroiderers, and the "tapissiers" who looked after tapestry, beds, and furniture with her menusier, the household carpenter or upholsterer. There were workers outside the household too, mostly in Edinburgh, including the Flemish shoemaker Fremyn Alezard. Servais de Condé, a valet of the chamber, kept a written record in French tracking the use of the more expensive fabrics. A broadly similar record of fabrics used by Mary of Guise from 1552 to 1554 also survives.[14] In this example from July 1564, black velvet was given to Mary's tailor to make a purse for handkerchiefs:

Plus a Jehan de Conpiegne i quartier de veloux noyr pour faire une grand bource pour la Royne lequelz fert a metre les mouchoy.
More, to Jehan de Compiegne, a quarter of black velvet to make a big purse for the queen, which she carries to hold handkerchiefs.[15]

Inventories of Mary's clothes written in French survive in the National Archives of Scotland and were printed by Joseph Robertson in 1863. This is an example of a skirt, with a note that it was given to the queen's favourite Mary Beaton:

Une vasquyne de satin cramoysy enrechye d'une bande d'ung passement d'argent faict a jour et borde d'ung passement d'argent.
Au moy de Fevvrier la Royne donne laditz vasquine a Mademoysel de Beton.[16]

This was one of fifteen embroidered skirts with passementerie listed in 1562. There were six plain skirts, and fifteen skirts of cloth of gold or silver. A cloth of gold skirt with matching sleeves was given to Magdalen Livingstone for her wedding. A skirt of cloth of silver was unpicked in 1566 for fabric to dress a bed.[17] Mary had several skirts made to match doublets, in silk camlet, velvet, and satin.[18] Mary wore skirts over a shaped farthingale, these were lined or doubled with taffeta, and their bell-shaped form stiffened with "girds" of whale baleen.[19][20]

The Scots language and older French vocabulary in the inventories of Mary, Queen of Scots can be difficult to read and interpret. Some help is given by the original cross-referencing numbers which were printed in the 19th-century editions.[21] French and Scots language entries for the same item can be compared, in many cases giving insightful contemporary translations. The letter "H" seen in the inventories refers to items confiscated from Huntly Castle, and a letter "S" means an item was at Stirling Castle.[22]

Masques and special costumes[]

Mary's tailor Jehan de Compiegne made costumes from orange "changing" or shot taffeta for a masque in February 1565 at Holyrood Palace, with a smaller costume in the same fabric for a young girl at court. The English ambassador Thomas Randolph said the Shrove Tide banquets at the Scottish court were great as those given at a royal wedding. The queen's ladies wore white and black at one banquet, and verses were recited as the courses were brought in by gentlemen wearing black and white.[23] For another masque, Jehan de Compiegne made six costumes decorated with flames made of cloth of gold reused from old cushion covers.[24] During the masque the queen's ladies, "cled in men's apperrell",[25] presented 8 Scottish dirks or daggers to the French guests, with black velvet scabbards embroidered with gold.[26]

On Easter Monday in April 1565 Mary and her ladies dressed like "bourgeois wives" and walked up and down the steep streets of Stirling, collecting contributions for a banquet.[27] Thomas Randolph's report of this Easter dressing-up custom, possibly associated with Hocktide,[28] reveals that the clothes worn by ladies at court were notably different from the costume worn by merchant's wives or other women living and working in Scotland's burgh towns, probably both in terms of fabrics and style.[29] Mary celebrated Easter at Stirling Castle this year, not in Edinburgh.[30]

On 5 September 1566 Mary ordered fabrics for the household of her son, the future James VI, at Stirling Castle, for beds and bedding for Margaret Beaton, Lady Reres and the gentlewomen appointed as rockers of the prince's cradle. Taffeta was bought to make costumes for the masque at James' baptism. In January 1567 the tailor Jehan de de Compiegne was given clothes including a black "Almain" or German-style cloak. In February the jester George Styne or Stevin had a costume made of blue kersey, and in March Nichola the fool had new linen. Mary's mourning for Darnley required 24 papers of pins. 10 ells of linen were bought for lining Mary's bathtub, and canvas for bathing was delivered to Toussaint Courcelles.[31]

In conflict[]

When Mary was at Inverness in September 1562 she said, after seeing the armed guard return from watch at night, that she regretted she "was not a man to know what life it was to lie all night in the fields, or to walk upon the causeway with a jack and a knapschall (helmet), a Glasgow buckler, and a broad sword".[32]

After the murder of Lord Darnley, when Mary seemed likely to marry the Earl of Bothwell, William Kirkcaldy of Grange wrote to the Earl of Bedford, an English diplomat, that Mary did not care if she lost France, England and Scotland for Bothwell's sake, and she had said she would go with him to the world's end in a white petticoat;

sho caris not to lose France Ingland and her owne countrie for him, and sall go with him to the warldes ende in ane white peticote or she leve him.[33]

A report written by the Captain of Inchkeith, Robert Anstruther, and a chronicle called the Diurnal of Occurents,[34] mention that Mary wore male clothing on her ride from Borthwick Castle to Dunbar Castle in 1567, and she is sometimes said to have been disguised as a page. Mary wore a short red petticoat at knee-length at Dunbar the next day before the battle of Carberry Hill. Anstruther's report written in French describes another item, but the words appear to be illegible.[35] According to George Buchanan, Mary changed into a short skirt at Fawside Castle on the morning of 15 June 1567 before the battle of Carberry. She left some clothes behind in a chest, including a gown of black "estamet" (stemming) embroidered with grains of jet, a crimson chamlet dress, a plaid, a great cloak, and a hat embroidered with gold and silver, with a panache. The black gown was "faict a la souvaige", perhaps meaning Highland fashion.[36]

An English soldier and border official, William Drury, heard another description of Mary's costume at this time, that she was dressed in "after the attire and fashion of the women of Edinburgh, in a red petticoat tied with points, a partlet, a velvet hat, and muffler". The partlet, worn over the shoulders, does not frequently appear in the queen's inventories.[37]

Abdication and England[]

Clothes and sewing thread for embroidery were sent to Mary in her prison at Lochleven Castle. On 3 September 1567 Mary wrote to Robert Melville to ask Servais de Condé to send silk thread and sewing gold and silver, doublets and skirts of black and white satin, a red incarnate doublet, a taffeta loose gown, clothes that she had asked Mary Fleming, Lady Maitland to send, and clothes for her maidens. Mary also wanted camerage (cambric) and linen, and two pairs of sheets with black thread for embroidery, and needles and a mould (cushion) for net-work called "rasour" or "réseau", a bed cover, and dried plums and pears.[38] Some of the request was fulfilled by new purchases by her half-brother Regent Moray in October.[39]

A memorandum written in French survives of textiles and thread sent to Mary at Lochleven, Carlisle, and Bolton Castle.[40] Mary escaped from Lochleven on 2 May 1568, her disguise involved a borrowed red dress and changing her hairstyle so she looked like a local woman.[41] Usually, Mary's hair was elaborately dressed by Mary Seton.[42] Three days after her escape, her French cook Estienne Hauet (Stephen Hewat) and his wife Elles Boug packed four silk gowns, two velvet gowns, a chamlet gown, a satin partlet, and other items in a chest to send to the queen wherever she might be.[43] After Langside, John Gordon of Lochinvar gave her clothes.[44] When Mary arrived in England, "her attire was very mean", and she had no change of clothes.[45]

Andrew Melville of Garvock went to Carlisle bringing three gowns.[46] The first consignment of clothes from Lochleven Castle to arrive in England for Mary proved inadequate, and she complained to Francis Knollys that in three coffers sent by Regent Moray there was only one gown of taffeta, the rest only cloaks, saddle cloths, sleeves, partlets and "such like trinketts".[47]

Queen Elizabeth apparently hesitated to send her some of her own clothes, but did send 16 yards of black velvet, 16 yards of black satin and 10 yards of black taffeta, a gift interpreted by the costume historian Janet Arnold as a hint that Mary ought to be in mourning clothes.[48] Mary's secretary Claude Nau mentions the receipt of this gift of textiles at Carlisle, packed in a small box and in shorter lengths than specified in Elizabeth's warrant.[49] The Spanish diplomat, Guzmán de Silva, seems to have reported this particular gift to Phillip II as an unsuitable present for a queen comprising two old chemises, some black velvet, and a pair of shoes.[50]

Francis Knollys sent Richard Graham alias Garse Ritchie, a servant of Lord Scrope, to bring more of Mary's clothes from Lochleven. He brought five cart loads and four laden horses to Bolton Castle on 20 July 1568. He went back to Scotland, where Regent Moray gave him a reward of 50 French crowns and a parcel of new clothing and costume fabric for his half-sister including; grey and black taffeta, black velvet, thread for stitching, jet buttons, and 12 pairs of leather shoes.[51] Mary wanted Garse Richie to fetch her "jewels", the furs with gold mounts known as zibellini, from John Sempill of Beltrees but Moray would not allow this.[52] Mary received her portable sounding alarm clock or watch from Lochleven, kept in a purse of silver and grey réseau work which she may have made herself.[53]

There were rumours that Mary would try to escape from captivity in April 1571. One plan was that she should pretend to fall ill while dancing. When she was carried to bed a companion in her clothes would take her place. Mary would escape, dressed as a man, and ride away. Another plan was that she would slip away during a hunt, leaving a companion dressed in her riding clothes. Again, Mary would find an opportunity to change into male clothing and ride away with a messenger. A third plan was for the queen to cut her hair and smear her face with filth, like a "turnbroche", a boy who turned a spit over the kitchen fire. Mary seems not to have attempted escape by such methods.[54]

Mary had clothes sent to her from France. A shopping list drawn up in 1572 by her tailor, Jehan de Compiegne, for Jean de Beaucaire, Seigneur de Puiguillon, gives an idea of clothes and textiles obtained from Paris. She may have imported similar goods during her years in Scotland, utilising her French income, although similar goods were available in Edinburgh merchants' booths. The lengths of fabrics were specified for some garments, robes of Florence serge, and doublets of satin lined with taffeta. The order included Milan-style points or fers, and points of jet, an apparently ready-made velvet Spanish-style gown, stockings, shoes, velvet and leather slippers, plain and embroidered handkerchiefs, and other items. The purchases were packed in two coffers or bahuts and shipped in May to the French ambassador Mothe-Fénélon in London to forward to Mary at Sheffield Castle.[55] The clothes had not reached her by 10 June, so Mary wrote to Mothe Fénélon about the missing coffer her tailor had brought to London.[56] Mary seems to have made a similar order in April 1573.[57]

Making gifts for Queen Elizabeth[]

In 1574 Mary embroidered an incarnate or crimson satin skirt with silver thread using materials bought in London by the ambassador, Mothe Fénélon.[58][59] She had sent him a sample of the silk required. She soon wrote for more incarnate silk thread, better quality thinner silver thread, and incarnate taffeta for the lining.[60] Mothe-Fénélon presented the finished item to Elizabeth on 22 May, with a declaration of friendship, and reported to Charles IX of France that the gift was a success.[61][62] Presumably hopeful of an audience at the English court, Mary asked the Archbishop of Glasgow, her contact in Paris, to send coifs embroidered with gold and silver and the latest fashion in Italian ribbons and veils for her hair.[63]

Although she had few helpers for delicate work, Mary planned making more gifts for Elizabeth, including a "coiffure with the suite" and some lacework, "ouvrages de réseul". She asked Mothe Fénélon for advice on what Elizabeth would like best, and asked him to send lengths of gold passementerie and braids called "bisette".[64] Elizabeth remained cautious of Mary's gifts, and was reluctant to try some sweets which Mothe Fénélon offered her as a gift from the brother of the chancellor of Mary's dowry, for fear of poison.[65] Mary gave Elizabeth a skirt front or devant de cotte in July 1576, made in her household, and followed up with an embroidered casket and a headdress. She wrote that if the skirt pleased Elizabeth she could have others made, even more beautiful. Mary asked Elizabeth if she would send the pattern of the high necked bodice she wore, "un patron d'un de voz corps a haut collet" for her to copy.[66]

Clothes remaining in Edinburgh Castle, 1578[]

While Mary was England, and her son James VI was growing up at Stirling Castle, a substantial remainder of Mary's wardrobe and the furnishings of her palaces were locked up in Edinburgh Castle. An inventory was made in March 1578,[67] written in the Scots Language, including her "gownes, vaskenis, skirtis, slevis, doublettis, vaillis, vardingallis, cloikis".[68] The inventory exists in two copies, one in the National Archives of Scotland and another in the British Library.[69] The taking of this inventory was described in the chronicle attributed to David Moysie.[70]

Among the hundreds of items; "a Highland kirtle of black stemming embroidered with blue silk" was related to the black gown found in Mary's chest at Fawside, and a pair of white canvas shepherd's kirtles were remnants from a masque performed at Castle Campbell in 1563 at the wedding of Lord Doune.[71] Accessories included; "huidis, quaiffis, collaris, rabattis, orilyeitis (fronts of hoods), napkins, caming cloths, covers of night gear, hose, shoes, and gloves".[72] Miscellaneous items in a coffer included a set of dolls called "pippens" with their miniature wardrobe, perhaps for play, or fashion dolls for creating new outfits.[73] There were at least 36 pairs of her velvet shoes "of sundry colours passmented with gold and silver stored in Edinburgh Castle. These had probably been made for her by Fremyn Alezard.[74]

The 1586 inventories[]

Mary in black velvet embroidered with pearls, with matching sleeves and vasquine skirt over a French farthingale, with Lord Darnley, Hardwick Hall

An inventory of Mary's wardrobe was made at Chartley Castle on 13 June 1586, written in French. The main headings are:[75]

  • Gowns or robes, including;
    • A black velvet gown with a tail, embroidered with pearls, lined with black taffeta, with pearl buttons on the front and on the sleeves
    • Another gown of crêpe, embroidered with jet, the bodice lined with white satin
    • Another gown of black satin, lined with black taffeta, two velvets passements at the front
  • Skirts or vasquines
    • Another skirt of black taffeta, banded, lined with taffeta
    • Another of black satin, lined with black taffeta, with two bands of velvet passementerie at the front
    • Another of white satin, lined with white buckram, banded with beads of jet
  • Doublets called pourpoincts
    • Another of white satin, with taffeta cordons on the sleeves
  • Doublets called juppes
    • A jupe of "cramoisy brun" velvet with bands of black passementerie, lined with "brune" taffetta. This garment accords with a description of Mary's costume on the day of her execution given by Adam Blackwood, and the "iuppe de velours cramoisy brun" mentioned in La Mort de la Royne D'Escosse (1588).[76]
    • A jupe of crimson figured satin, with four bands of blue silk and silver passementerie, with fringes of the same, lined with white taffeta
  • Cloaks or manteaux
  • Tapestries and cloths of estate
    • A dais or cloth of estate of violet silk, embroidered with the arms of Scotland and Lorraine.[77]
    • Another cloth of estate of "cramoisy" brown velvet, barred with silver passementerie.[78]
  • Other items in the wardrobe coffers
    • The bodice of a velvet gown with a high collar, with sleeves embroidered with passementerie and jet
    • A garniture or ornament for a gown with bands of pearls on black velvet

A further inventory was made at Chartley on 18 May of needlework in the keeping of Renée Rallay alias Mademoiselle de Beauregard. This includes 102 flowers worked in petit-point, 124 birds, and another 116 birds cut-out, 16 four-footed beasts including a lion attacking a wild boar, 52 fish, and other works of embroidery intended for a bed and a cloth of estate.[79] Another paper (in two parts) in French describes the devices on Mary's bed, the embroidered emblems with Latin mottoes.[80] In August 1586, possibly while Mary was taken to Tixall, an inventory was made of her jewels and silver plate in the keeping of Jean Kennedy. Some fabrics were in the keeping of Elizabeth Curle.[81]

There is also a short list of items stolen from Mary in 1586. The circumstances are unclear. The list includes a gold pincase to wear on a girdle, enamelled white and red, doublets of russet satin and canvas, a black velvet cap with a green and black feather, and three embroidered mufflers or scarves of which two were black velvet. Three "carcanet chains" or necklaces were embroidered with gold and silver.[82]

After Mary's execution in February 1587 a list of her belongings, jewellery and apparell, in the possession of various members of her household was made.[83] Jean Kennedy, Renée Rallay, Gillis Mowbray, and Mary Pagez, the daughter of Bastian Pagez, each held several items from the queen's wardrobe. Renée Rallay had the queen's embroidery silks. Some pieces, including the black velvet gown set with pearls were said to have been earmarked by Mary to be sold by her Master of Household, Andrew Melville of Garvock, to cover the expenses of the return of servants to Scotland.[84]

Some of Mary's things were sent to Scotland, and in April 1603, the secretary of Anne of Denmark, William Fowler noted some of the emblems or devices embroidered on the curtains of Mary's bed at Holyrood Palace.[85]

Mary's execution[]

A narrative of Mary's execution on 8 February 1587 by "R. W.", Robert Wingfield,[86] mentions her costume as she left her bedchamber; "her borrowed hair" a wig, and on her head she had a dressing of lawn edged with bone lace, a pomander chain and an "Agnus Dei" about her neck, a Crucifix in her hand, a pair of beads (a rosary) at her girdle, with a golden cross at the end of them. She had a veil of lawn fastened to her caul bowed out with wire, and edged round about with bone lace. Her gown was of black satin painted, with a train and long sleeves to the ground, with acorn-shaped buttons of jet and pearl. She had short or half sleeves of black satin, over a pair of sleeves of purple velvet. Her kirtle was of figured black satin, her petticoat upperbody unlaced in the back of crimson satin,[87] and her petticoat skirt of crimson velvet, her shoes of Spanish leather with the rough side outward, a pair of green silk garters, her nether stockings of worsted were coloured watchet (sky blue), clocked with silver, and edged on the tops with silver, and next by her leg, a pair of white Jersey hose.[88][89][90]

The two executioners disrobed her, with her two women (Jean Kennedy and Elizabeth Curle) helping,[91] and then she laid the crucifix upon a stool. One of the executioners took the Agnus Dei from her neck, and she laid hold of it, saying she would give it to one of her women. Then they took off her chain of pomander beads and all her other apparel. She put on a pair of sleeves with her own hands. At length, she was unattired and unapparelled to her petticoat and kirtle.[92] Anything touched by the queen's blood was burnt in hall's chimney fire.[93]

A version of the execution narrative written in the Scots Language mentions the burning of the executioners' clothes or anything touched by her blood; "all thingis about hir, belonging to hir, war takin from the executionaris and nocht sufferet so mutche to have ther aprones befor they war weshed, the blodie clothes, the blok, and quhatsumever [whatsoever] ellis war burnt in the chalmer".[94]

Mary mentioned in a letter to the Bishop of Glasgow on 6 November 1577 that she had been sent "chaplets" or rosaries, and an "Agnus Dei" from Rome. These may be the items mentioned in the narrative of the execution.[95] Another account of the execution, written by a Catholic writer, mentions that she wore a gown of black satin with French-style embroidery of black velvet. A gown of this description was listed at Chartley and after the execution.[96] This writer does not mention the disrobing or any red clothes.[97] A 19th-century historian James Anthony Froude conjectured that the "blood-red" costume, mentioned in Wingfield's account, was extraordinary and deliberate or "carefully studied".[98] Red petticoats were not uncommon in Elizabethan England, and physicians such as Andrew Boorde thought that red clothes promoted health benefits.[99] Recent writers suppose that Mary wore red to suggest an affiliation to martyrdom, since the colour may represent martyrdom.[100]

A glove at Saffron Walden Museum is said to have been her gift to Marmaduke Darrell at Fotheringhay. He was an English administrator of her household.[101] The leather glove is embroidered with coloured silks and silver thread, and lined with crimson satin.[102][103]

The French ambassador in Edinburgh, Monsieur de Courcelles, bought black fabric from Henry Nisbet for mourning clothes for himself and his household including bombazine for doublets, and dyed Beauvais serge for his men, "sairg de Beauvois tainct en soye pour habiller votre gens en dueil".[104]

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ Alphonse de Ruble, La première jeunesse de Marie Stuart, (Paris, 1891), selected transcriptions from BnF Fr. 11207, see external links.
  2. ^ David Scott, History of Scotland (Westminster, 1728), p. 514: William Camden, Annales Rerum Anglicarum Et Hibernicarum Regnante Elizabetha, vol. 1 (London, 1717), p. clxiii.
  3. ^ Rosalind K. Marshall, 'Hir Rob Ryall: the Costume of Mary of Guise', Costume, 12:1 (1978), pp. 1-12: National Library of Scotland Adv. MS 29.2.5 ff. 18, 27.
  4. ^ Alphonse Ruble, La première jeunesse de Marie Stuart (Paris, 1891), pp. 287-8, 297.
  5. ^ Alphonse de Ruble, La première jeunesse de Marie Stuart, (Paris, 1891), pp. 286-92.
  6. ^ Marguerite Wood, Balcarres Papers, vol. 1 (Edinburgh, 1925), pp. 252-6.
  7. ^ Forrest P. Chisman, 'The portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, En Deuil Blanc: A study in copying', British Art Journal, 6:2 (Autumn 2005), pp. 23-27.
  8. ^ Susan Frye, Pens and Needles: Women's Textualities in Early Modern England (Philadelphia, 2010), pp. 45-50.
  9. ^ Joseph Stevenson, Calendar State Papers Foreign, 1560-1561 (London, 1865), p. 251 no. 446: TNA SP 70/17 f.82v.
  10. ^ James Balfour Paul, Accounts of the Treasurer, vol. 11 (Edinburgh, 1916), pp. xxiii, 84.
  11. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 1 (Edinburgh, 1898), p. 579 no. 1050.
  12. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 1 (Edinburgh, 1898), p. 621 no. 1096.
  13. ^ James Balfour Paul, Accounts of the Treasurer, vol. 10 (Edinburgh, 1913), p. xiv.
  14. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse: Catalogues of the jewels, dresses, of Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. 125-178: National Records of Scotland, NRS E34/19, Transcript: A wardrobe account of Mary of Guise, 1552-1554
  15. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse: Catalogues of the jewels, dresses, of Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 1863), p. 149.
  16. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse: Catalogues of the jewels, dresses, of Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 1863), p. 70.
  17. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. 68-71.
  18. ^ Melanie Schuessler Bond, Dressing the Scottish Court 1543-1553: Clothing in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland (Boydell, 2019), p. 101: Joseph Robertson, Inventaires (Edinburgh, 1863), p. 101.
  19. ^ Accounts of the Treasurer, vol. 11 (Edinburgh, 1916), pp. 204, 226, 246.
  20. ^ Sarah Bendall, 'Whalebone and the Wardrobe of Elizabeth I: Whaling and the Making of Aristocratic Fashions in Sixteenth-Century Europe', Apparence(s), 11 (February 2022)
  21. ^ Michael Pearce, 'Beds of "Chapel" Form in Sixteenth-Century Scottish Inventories: The Worst Sort of Bed', Regional Furniture, 27 (2013), pp. 85-6: Thomson (1815): Robertson (1863).
  22. ^ Michael Pearce, Edinburgh Castle Research: The dolls of Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 2018), p. 18
  23. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), p. 144-5: Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), pp. 41, 47.
  24. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. lxxxvi, 162: Thomson (1815), p. 148 item 128.
  25. ^ Clare McManus, Women on the Renaissance stage: Anna of Denmark and Female Masquing in the Stuart Court, 1590-1619 (Manchester, 2002), p. 69.
  26. ^ Thomas Thomson, Diurnal of Occurrents (Edinburgh, 1833), p. 87
  27. ^ Kristen Post Walton, Catholic Queen, Protestant Patriarchy: Mary Queen of Scots and the Politics of Gender and Religion (Palgrave Macmillan, 2006), p. 122.
  28. ^ Muriel Clara Bradbrook, Shakespeare: The Poet in his World (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1978), p. 16.
  29. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar of State Papers Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), p. 148 no. 171.
  30. ^ Edward Furgol, 'Scottish itinerary of Mary Queen of Scots, 1542-8 and 1561-8', Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, 117 (1988), scanned microfiche
  31. ^ David Hay Fleming, Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 1897), pp. 499-501, 505-510: Accounts of the Treasurer, vol. 12 (Edinburgh, 1970), pp. 56, 403 no. 44.
  32. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 1 (Edinburgh, 1898), p. 651 no. 1138.
  33. ^ Victoria Smith, 'Perspectives on Female Monarchy', in J. Daybell & S. Norrhem, Gender and Political Culture in Early Modern Europe (Abingdon, 2017), p. 153: Julian Goodare, 'The Ainslie Bond', Kings, Lords and Men in Scotland and Britain, 1300-1625 (Edinburgh, 2014), pp. 305-6: Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), p. 322.
  34. ^ Thomas Thomson, Diurnal of Occurrents (Edinburgh, 1833), p. 113
  35. ^ John Guy, Queen of Scots: The True Life (New York, 2005), p. 331: Teulet, Relations de la France et de l'Espagne avec l'Écosse, vol. 2 (Paris, 1862), p. 303.
  36. ^ Annie Cameron, Warrender Papers, vol. 1 (SHS, Edinburgh, 1931), p. 50 (French).
  37. ^ Agnes Strickland, Life of Mary Stewart, vol. 2 (London, 1873), p. 8, citing TNA SP 59/13 f.157.
  38. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 2 (London, 1852), pp. 61-2: William Fraser, The Melvilles, Earls of Melville, and the Leslies, Earls of Leven, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1890), p. 7
  39. ^ Charles Thorpe McInnes, Accounts of the Treasurer of Scotland, vol. 12 (Edinburgh, 1970), p. 83.
  40. ^ William James Duncan, Miscellaneous Papers, Principally Illustrative of Events in the Reigns of Queen Mary and King James VI (Maitland Club: Glasgow, 1834), pp. 12-19, 149-51 Margaret Swain, The Needlework of Mary Queen of Scots (London, 1973), pp. 54-6.
  41. ^ Joseph Stevenson, History of Mary Stewart by Claude Nau (Edinburgh, 1883), pp. 89, 289.
  42. ^ Calendar of State Papers Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), pp. 447-8 no. 720.
  43. ^ David Hay Fleming, Mary Queen of Scots (Edinburgh, 1897), pp. 511-12, NRS E35/8, 'pour le mener et condure a la Royne la part ou elle sera'.
  44. ^ Joseph Stevenson, History of Mary Stewart by Claude Nau (Edinburgh, 1883), pp. 95, 294.
  45. ^ Agnes Strickland, Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, vol. 2 (London, 1842), p. 294.
  46. ^ Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. clv-clvi.
  47. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), p. 453 no. 726: Agnes Strickland, Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, vol. 2 (London, 1842), p. 302.
  48. ^ Janet Arnold, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (Maney, 1988), p. 98.
  49. ^ Joseph Stevenson, History of Mary Stewart by Claude Nau (Edinburgh, 1883), pp. 98, 297
  50. ^ Carole Levin, 'Queen Elizabeth and the Power and Language of the Gift', Donatella Montini & Iolanda Plescia, Elizabeth I in Writing: Language, Power and Representation in Early Modern England (Palgrave Macmillan, 2018), p. 224.
  51. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1563-1569, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), p. 460 no. 737: Accounts of the Treasurer, vol. 12 (Edinburgh, 1970), pp. 137-8.
  52. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1563-1569, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1900), p. 478 no. 765.
  53. ^ Miscellaneous Papers, Principally Illustrative of Events in the Reigns of Queen Mary and King James VI (Glasgow, 1834), pp. 15, 17.
  54. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland, 1569-1571, vol. 3 (Edinburgh, 1903), pp. 545-6 no. 702.
  55. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 4 (Edinburgh, 1905), pp. 304-5 nos 324-5: TNA SP 53/8 ff. 95-8 (two copies): Some older historians assumed this list was Mary's gift to Elizabeth.
  56. ^ Sylvia L. England, 'Some Unpublished Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots', EHR, 52:205 (January 1937), p. 81.
  57. ^ Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 4 (London, 1852), p. 70.
  58. ^ Carole Levin, 'Queen Elizabeth and the Power and Language of the Gift', Donatella Montini & Iolanda Plescia, Elizabeth I in Writing: Language, Power and Representation in Early Modern England (Palgrave Macmillan, 2018), p. 227.
  59. ^ Jemma Field, 'Female dress', Erin Griffey, Early Modern Court Culture (Routledge, 2022), p. 401.
  60. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 4 (London, 1852), pp. 111, 119
  61. ^ Janet Arnold, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (Maney, 1988), p. 94.
  62. ^ Correspondance de Bertrand de Salignac de la Mothe Fénélon, 1574-1575, vol. 6 (Paris, 1840), p. 122 'une basquinne [sic] de satin incarnat, ... en tout tissu de sa main'.
  63. ^ Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 4 (London, 1852), p. 187.
  64. ^ Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 4 (London, 1852), pp. 222-3.
  65. ^ Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 4 (London, 1852), pp. 235-6
  66. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, 1574-1581, (Edinburgh, 1907), p. 29 no. 233: TNA SP53/10
  67. ^ David Moysie, Memoirs of the Affairs of Scotland (Edinburgh, 1830), p. 5
  68. ^ Thomas Thomson, Collection of Inventories (Edinburgh, 1815), p. 219.
  69. ^ British Library, Harley MS 4637: Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1574–1581, vol. 5 (London, 1907), p. 283: Thomson (1815), pp. 203–261.
  70. ^ James Dennistoun, Moysie's Memoirs of the Affairs of Scotland (Edinburgh, 1830), p. 5
  71. ^ Joseph Bain, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 1 (Edinburgh, 1898), pp. 678-9, 681: Joseph Robertson, Inventaires de la Royne Descosse (Edinburgh, 1863), pp. lxxxii, 136, 138.
  72. ^ Thomas Thomson, Collection of Inventories (Edinburgh, 1815), pp. 223, 229, 231.
  73. ^ Historic Environment Scotland: The dolls of Mary Queen of Scots
  74. ^ Thomas Thomson, Collection of Inventories (Edinburgh, 1815), p. 236.
  75. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7, pp. 230-238.
  76. ^ John Morris, Letter-Books of Amias Paulet (London, 1874), p. 369: La Mort de la Royne D'Escosse (1588), p. 89.
  77. ^ See also, Thomson (1815), pp. 133-4 no. 4.
  78. ^ See also, Thomson (1815), p. 124.
  79. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London, 1852), pp. 239-241: Michael Bath, Emblems for a Queen (London, 2008), pp. 5-6.
  80. ^ Michael Bath, Emblems for a Queen (London, 2008), p. 147: William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 9 (London, 1915), p. 502 no. 408.
  81. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London, 1852), pp. 242-249.
  82. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1586-1588, vol. 9 (Edinburgh, 1915), p. 228: TNA SP 53/20 f.44.
  83. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland: 1586-1588, vol. 9 (Edinburgh, 1915), p. 304 no. 292.
  84. ^ A. Labanoff, Lettres de Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London, 1852), pp. 254-274.
  85. ^ Michael Bath, Emblems for a Queen (London, 2008), p. 147-157.
  86. ^ Charles Dack, The Trial, Execution and Death of Mary Queen of Scots (Northampton, 1889), pp. 1-18.
  87. ^ This phrase is omitted in some published versions, present in John Strype, Annals of the Reformation, vol. 3 (London, 1728), p. 584, and in British Library Harley MS 290 f.205, and Cotton Caligula C. IX f.638.
  88. ^ Agnes Strickland, Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, vol. 2 (London, 1842), pp. 253-263, modernised here.
  89. ^ Annie I. Cameron, Warrender Papers, vol. 1 (SHS: Edinburgh, 1931), p. 268.
  90. ^ Henry Ellis, Original Letters, 2nd series vol. 3 (London, 1827), pp. 112-8 from BL Lansdowne MS 51 does not include the description of Mary's costume.
  91. ^ Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 9 (Edinburgh, 1915), pp. 272-3.
  92. ^ Agnes Strickland, Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, vol. 2 (London, 1842), pp. 253-263. Public Domain This article incorporates text from this source, which is in the public domain.
  93. ^ Henry Ellis, Original Letters, 2nd series vol. 3 (London, 1827), pp. 112-8, this detail is sometimes misunderstood to include all or most of Mary's belongings. Public Domain This article incorporates text from this source, which is in the public domain.
  94. ^ Annie I. Cameron, Warrender Papers, vol. 1 (SHS: Edinburgh, 1931), p. 267.
  95. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, 1574-1581, (Edinburgh, 1907), p. 29 no. 233: TNA SP53/10.
  96. ^ Labanoff, Lettres of Marie Stuart, vol. 7 (London, 1852), pp. 234, 267.
  97. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 9 (London, 1915), p. 274 no. 274.
  98. ^ James Anthony Froude, History of England, vol. 12 (London, 1870), p. 339.
  99. ^ Melanie Schuessler Bond, Dressing the Scottish Court 1543-1553: Clothing in the Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer of Scotland (Boydell, 2019), pp. 95-6, 99: Ninya Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm Davies, The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing sixteenth-century-dress (London, 2006), p. 22.
  100. ^ Marguerite A. Tassi, 'Martyrdom and Memory: Elizabeth Curle’s Portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots', Debra Barret-Graves, The Emblematic Queen (Palgrave Macmillan, 2013), pp. 102-3.
  101. ^ Joseph Stevenson, 'Memorials of Mary Queen of Scots', James Paton, Scottish National Memorials (Glasgow, 1890), p. 68.
  102. ^ W. B. Redfarn, 'The Glove of Mary Queen of Scots', The Reliquary (April 1882), pp. 193-5.
  103. ^ Saffron Walden Museum: Costume and Textiles
  104. ^ William Boyd, Calendar State Papers Scotland, vol. 9 (London, 1915), p. 414 no. 350.

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