Angela Eiter

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Angela Eiter
Angela Eiter.jpg
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1986-01-27) January 27, 1986 (age 35)
Arzl im Pitztal, Austria
Height154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Weight46 kg (101 lb)
Websiteangelaeiter.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning 3 World Cups in a row and 4 World Championships.
Being the first female to climb a 9b route.
hide
Medal record
World Cup
Winner 2004 Lead
Winner 2005 Lead
Winner 2006 Lead
Winner 2006 Combined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2005 Munich Lead
Gold medal – first place 2007 Avilés Lead
Gold medal – first place 2011 Arco Lead
Gold medal – first place 2012 Paris Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Lead
World Games
Gold medal – first place 2005 Duisburg Lead
Updated on 8 May 2013.

Angela Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions: she won three Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium.[1]

In 2017 she became the first woman in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route (La Planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain).[2][3]

Biography[]

She started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing. In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[4] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[5] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[6]

She also won four world championships in the lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[7] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[8] the 2011 edition in Arco,[9] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[10]

For this outstanding performance was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[11]

In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[12] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.

On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[13][14]

On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first female to climb that grade.[2][3]

In 2020, she did the first ascent of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the first 5.15b first ascent by a woman, and the hardest first ascent by a woman at the time.[15][16]

Rankings[]

See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[]

Discipline 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 18 3 1 1 1 2 13 4 3 4 35
Bouldering - - - - 15 33 - - - - -
Combined - - - - 1 2 - - - - -

[17]

Climbing World Championships[]

Discipline 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012
Lead 7 1 1 5 1 1
Bouldering - - 8 - - -

[1]

Climbing European Championships[]

Discipline 2004 2006 2010
Lead 6 5 1

[1]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[]

Lead[]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2002 0
2003 2 3 5
2004 4 1 5
2005 8 1 9
2006 7 1 1 9
2007 2 3 5
2008 1 1
2009 2 2
2010 2 2
2011 2 1 1 4
Total 25 13 4 42

[1]

Notable ascents[]

Redpointed routes[]

9b (5.15b):

  • La Planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - October 22, 2017 - World's first female ascent of a 9b route.[2][3]
  • Madame Ching - Tyrol (AUT) - December 2020 - First Ascent[18]

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Hercules - Götterwandl (AUT) - October 2014 - First ascent
  • Ingravids Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 2010[22]
  • Claudio Café - Terra Promessa (ITA) - 2007[23]

8c (5.14b):

  • White Zombie - Baltzola Cave (ESP) - 2009[24]
  • Strelovod - Misja Pec (SLO) - 2008
  • Bodybuilding - Bürs (AUT) - 2007
  • Nobody is Perfect - Bürs (AUT) - 2007

Onsighted routes[]

8b (5.13d):

Boulder problems[]

8B (V13):

See also[]

  • Notable first free ascents

References[]

  1. ^ Jump up to: a b c d IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Eiter's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  2. ^ Jump up to: a b c Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b". Retrieved 24 October 2017.
  3. ^ Jump up to: a b c Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b". Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  4. ^ "Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004". planetmountain.com. 23 November 2004. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  5. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (21 November 2005). "Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  6. ^ "World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj". planetmountain.com. 24 November 2006. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  7. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (4 July 2005). "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  8. ^ "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  9. ^ "Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco". planetmountain.com. 23 July 2011. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  10. ^ Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  11. ^ "Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter top the Arco Rock Legends 2006". rockmaster.com. Archived from the original on 21 January 2016. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
  12. ^ "Climbing break for Angy Eiter after shoulder surgery". angelaeiter.com. 26 September 2008. Archived from the original on 21 September 2013. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
  13. ^ Jump up to: a b "Angela Eiter Climbs Hades (5.14d)". DPM Magazine. 14 October 2014. Archived from the original on 18 October 2014. Retrieved 16 October 2014.
  14. ^ Jump up to: a b "Angela Eiter climbs 9a: Hades at Götterwandl in Austria". PlanetMountain.com.
  15. ^ http://www.climbing.com/.amp/news/angy-eiter-completes-5-15b-first-ascent-story-photo-gallery/
  16. ^ "NEWSFLASH: 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter". www.ukclimbing.com.
  17. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  18. ^ "Angy Eiter Sends New 5.15b with Madame Ching in Austria". Gripped Magazine. 2020-12-17. Retrieved 2020-12-18.
  19. ^ "Angy Eiter is Not Slowing Down".
  20. ^ "Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven climb 9a at Margalef in Spain". PlanetMountain.com.
  21. ^ "Angela Eiter climbs Big Hammer, her second 9a". PlanetMountain.com.
  22. ^ ukclimbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2010). "Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension, 8c+".
  23. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 31, 2007). "Arrampicata: Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffè 8c+".
  24. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (October 5, 2009). "Angela Eiter in gran forma". Archived from the original on October 8, 2009. Retrieved October 25, 2017.
  25. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 21, 2006). "Angela Eiter vola a-vista verso Skyline 8b".
  26. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (August 26, 2014). "Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa".

External links[]

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