Hufu (clothing)

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For A human meat flavored tofu product see, see Hufu.
Hufu
HanForeigner3rdCentury.jpg
A foreign Sogdian soldier wearing a curved collar (曲领) short robe, Eastern Han, early 3rd century.
Northern Wei Pottery Figures (9833213205).jpg
Figurines from Northern Wei.

On the left: Foreign fashion lapel robes

On the right: Foreign-influenced or foreign-style cross-collared robes closing to the left side instead of the right side. Traditionally, Chinese style upper garment closes to the right.
Chinese name
Chinese胡服
Literal meaningBabarian clothing
Korean name
Hangul호복
Hanja胡服

Hufu (Chinese: 胡服), also referred as Hu clothing,[1] nomadic dress,[2] 'barbarian' clothing or dress,[3][4] or foreign dress,[5] is a generic term which refers to the clothing worn by non-Han Chinese people.[6][4] This term is also used to refer to foreigner's dress or clothing of foreign origins in ancient China.[4] The introduction of hufu in China occurred by the time of King Wuling of Zhao.[6]

Terminology[]

The term 'hu' was adopted to refer to non-Han Chinese population which could include the ancient 'Hu' northern nomadic (e.g. the Xiongnu),[1] the Sogdians, the Sasanid Persian, the Turkic people (Tujue), Uyghur (Huihe or Huihu), Tibetans (Tufan), Khitans (Qidan) who lived in the north and west regions of the empire.[4]

History[]

Warring States period[]

During the Warring States period, King Wuling of Zhao (r. 326–298 BC) instituted hufuqishe (Chinese: 胡服騎射; lit. 'Hu clothing and mounted archery') policies which involved the adoption of hufu to facilitate horse riding.[1][7] During this period, the term 'hufu' was named after the 'Hu' northern nomadic people.[1] Under this sartorial and military reform, all his soldiers had to wear the uniforms of Donghu, Linhu, and Loufan in battles.[8] The hufu is described as a form of trousers and (short[7][9][8]) shirt or jacket with tighter (tubular-shaped[9]) sleeves,[1][2] boots,[7][8] belt,[8][9] and belt buckle.[8] The choice to adopt calvary and the departure from the chariot warfare from the 8th to 5th century BC showed the influence of the Xiongnu which was the northern neighbour of the Zhao state.[1] The reality or the extent of King Wuling's reforms is a disputed subject among historians.[1]

In Shiji, Zhao Shijia (lit. 'Hereditary Family of Zhao'), it is said that King Wuling undertook those sartorial reforms in the 19th year of his reign in 307 BCE.[1] However, according to the Bamboo Annals, an annalistic history of Wei unearthed from a Wei King tomb in 279 BC, the Zhao court had ordered commanders, officers, and their families, and garrison guards to adopt Hefu (Chinese: 貉服) in 302 BC.[1] The term 'He' used in the Bamboo Annals is a synonym of the term 'Hu' which refers to the northern nomadic people.[1]

In the Warring States period, the wearing of short upper garment worn by the Chinese which is belted with a woven silk band and had a right-opening also influenced the hufu; it was worn together with trousers allowing greater ease of movement.[10] This form of clothing was most likely worn by peasants and labourers.[10]

Han dynasty[]

Some forms of hanfu worn in the Eastern Han dynasty started to be influenced by the costumes of the Hu (胡) people and the gown with round collar started to appear.[11] However, in this period, the round collar gown was more commonly used as an under-garment.[11]

Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties[]

The was a period of cultural integration and cultural exchange between the Han Chinese and the other ethnic groups.[9] The Han Chinese living in the South liked the driving clothing of the Northern minorities which was composed of trousers and xi (a close-fitting short robe with round neck and tight sleeves).[9] The northern nomads also introduced their leather boots (Chinese: 靴; pinyin: xue),[12] quekua (Chinese: 缺胯; a type of crotch-length garment which was a long jacket with tight sleeves but less overlap compared to the traditional clothing worn by the Chinese allowing greater ease of movement; the collar was either round and snug or slightly plunged allowing the undershirt to be visible) and the hood and cape ensemble in China.[12]

Influences of the Xianbei and ban of Xianbei clothing[]

During the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, northern nomadic peoples introduced other styles of round collar (Chinese: 盤領; pinyin: panling)[13] robe in China.[14] The round collar robe introduced by the Xianbei had tight sleeves which allowed for greater ease of riding when horse riding.[14] Since the Northern Wei dynasty, the shapes of the Han Chinese robes started to be influenced by the round collar robes.[15] The Xianbei were originally a branch of the Donghu which were defeated by the Xiongnu but they later claimed to be descendant of the Yellow Emperor as the Chinese.[16] The Northern Wei period was a period of cultural integration between the Xianbei and the Han Chinese; the Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing which included high boots and round-collar robes with narrow sleeves into Han clothing.[17] In the murals of Lou Rui tomb, a procession of riders appear to be clothed in quekua and wearing boots and headgear.[12]

  • Xianbei clothing

  • Xianbei women typically wore a long robe under a jacket instead of trousers and boots.[18] Xianbei clothing had zuoren opening (i.e. closed on the left side).

  • The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[19]

  • The cape and hood was another nomad outfit which was distinctively Xianbei.[20]

  • Northern Qi Pottery Warrior (9832768635).jpg

  • Riders from the murals from the Tomb of Lou Rui appear to be wearing quekua.

The Xianbei rulers continued to wear own distinctive Xianbei clothing in order to maintain their ethnic identity and avoid merging with the Chinese majority population.[21][22] However, under the sinicization policies under Emperor Xiaowen of Northern Wei (r. 471–499 AD), hufu (which refers to Northern barbarian clothing) was banned.[23][24] This ban of hufu also included the ban on Xianbei clothing.[25] The ban also included non-Han language at Northern Wei court, and the changing of the royal family surname Tuoba to Yuan.[25] Many members of the Tuoba Xianbei adopted Han Chinese clothing, language, surnames and customs.[25][26] However, this sinicization policies were also met with opposition by other ethnic minority groups.[26] After the fall of the Northern Wei, male figures started to reappear wearing Xianbei-style clothing on Buddhist monuments and tomb murals; however, the Xianbei-style clothing worn by women are no longer seen in the art of China after the year 500 AD.[2] These re-emerging Xianbei clothing following the fall of the Northern Wei also showed minor changes.[27] After the year 500 AD, women would appear in Chinese-style clothing while men could be found dressed in either Xianbei-style or Chinese-style clothing.[2] In the tomb of Xu Xianxiu (d. 571 AD), Xu Xianxiu, a Northern Qi aristocrat, is depicted wearing Xianbei-style tunic, trousers, and boots and what appears to be a cloak of Central Asian fashion while his wife is wear a Chinese-style robe.[2][28] Some female servants depicted on the tomb mural of Xu Xianxiu appear to be dressed in clothing which looks closer to the Xianbei style garment than the Chinese-style clothing due to the use of narrow sleeves; however, this form of clothing is not representative of the Xianbei style clothing worn before the year 500 AD.[2]

Influences of Sogdians[]

Sogdian musicians from a funerary couch, Northern Qi

The Sogdians were also called Hu (Chinese: 胡) in Chinese.[21] The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchants class) living in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but with some East Asian influences (i.e. Chinese and early Turks).[29] Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right.[29] Their robes would often be buttoned up the neck forming the round collar but occasionally the collar (or lower button) would be undone to form lapel robes (Chinese: 翻领胡服; pinyin: Fānlǐng húfú; lit. 'Non-Chinese lapel robes').[29][15] Lapels robes were popular in Central regions (in the Sogdian regions), Qiuci and Gaochang but originated in Western Asia but spread eastwards through the Sogdians in Central Asia.[15] The Sogdians living in Central Asia and China wore turned-down lapel robes which was popular the Sogdian region of Central Asia in the Western Asia.[29] The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of the Saka people living in the Khotan Oasis.[29] It was also not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found in Sogdia.[29] These lapels robes appeared as early as in Northern Wei depictions and are (for now) the earliest depictions of Xianbei or Han Chinese people wearing lapels robes; these lapels robes became a popular form of fashion in Northern Qi in the Han regions for both men and women.[15] This dressing customs of wearing lapel robe was later inherited and developed in the subsequent dynasties, in the Tang and Sui dynasties.[15]

Tang dynasty[]

Main article: Yuanlingshan

In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 – 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the term Han was used to refer to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during the Northern dynasties.[30] The round-collar jacket and gown, tied with a belt at the waist, became a typical form of fashion for both Tang dynasty men and women as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in the Tang dynasty.[31][32]

The Hufu which was popular in this period was the clothing worn by the Tartars and the people who lived in the Western regions,[33] which was brought from the Silk Road.[34] In the early Tang dynasty, the influence of hufu was described as a pastiche of Turkic, Uyghur, Sogdian and Sasanid Persian clothing.[4] Hufu style in this period included jacket with open-front with narrow-fitting sleeves, striped, tapered trousers, woven boots, and weimao (i.e. wide-brimmed hat with an attached gauze veil).[4] Other forms of hu clothing included: mili (羃䍦), a burqua-like headware, veil-less hat called .

Woman wearing hufu in Tang dynasty

Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearing Hufu.[35] During this period, the yuanlingpao could be turned into a lapel robe (influenced by those worn by the Sogdians) by unbuttoning the robes and the lapel robes could turned into the yuanlingpao when buttoned.[15] In some unearthed pottery figures wearing lapel robes dating from the Tang dynasty, it found that the yuanlingpao had three buttons on the collar.[15] The double overturned lapels with tight-fitting sleeves were known as kuapao (Chinese: 袴袍; a robe which originated from Central Asia[36]), and similarly to the yuanlingshan, the kuapao could be ornate with trims decorated with patterns at the front, sleeve-cuffs and along the lapels.[35] The kuapao was worn by men, but it could be used as a main garment for cross-dressing female attendant or they could be draped on the shoulders of both men and women like a cloak.[35][36] The lapel robes worn during the Tang dynasty was categorized as Hufu instead of Hanfu; the use of these styles of robes showed the popularity of Hufu during the Tang dynasty, especially during the Wuzetian period (684 –704 AD).[37] The Yuanlingpao however was categorized as Han clothing.[32]

Uyghur princesses wearing Uyghur turned down lapel robes.

It also popular for people to use fabrics (such as brocade) to decorate the collars, sleeves and front and their gowns; this clothing decoration customs is known as 'partial decorations of gowns' and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period.[38] Influenced by foreign cultures,[38] some yuanlingshan could also be decorated with Central Asian roundels (i.e. a form of partial decoration) which would run down at the centre of the robe.[35]

It was also fashionable for noble women to wear Huihuzhuang (回鶻装; Uyghur dress, which is sometimes referred as Huihu-style), a turned-down lapel voluminous robes with tight sleeves which were slim-fitting, after the An Lushan Rebellion (755 - 763 AD).[39][40][41][42]

After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences of hufu progressively started to fade and the clothing started to become more and more loose.[33]

Song dynasty[]

Yuan dynasty[]

Main article: Fashion in Yuan dynasty

Ming dynasty[]

See also[]

References[]

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