Yuanlingshan

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Man and woman wearing yuanlingshan for wedding, Tang dynasty painting, 706 AD.

Yuanlingshan (Chinese: 圓領衫; lit. 'round collar jacket'), also known as Yuanlingpao (Chinese: 圓領袍; lit. 'round collar gown/robe') or panlingpao (Chinese: 盘领袍; pinyin: Panlingpao), is a form of traditional Chinese attire. It is a formal attire which was typically worn by men although it also became fashionable for women to wear it in some dynasties, such as in the Tang dynasty.[1]

History[]

Han dynasty[]

Some forms of hanfu worn during the Eastern Han dynasty started to be influenced by the costumes of the Hu (胡) people and the gown with round collar started to appear.[2] However, in the Han dynasty period, the round collar gown was more commonly used as an under-garment.[2][3] It is only at the time of the Six dynasties that the round collared robe started to be worn as an outer robe and could be worn as a form of formal clothing.[3]

Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties[]

During the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, northern nomadic peoples introduced other styles of round collar (Chinese: 盤領; pinyin: panling)[4] robe in China.[5] The round collar robe introduced by the Xianbei had tight sleeves which allowed for greater ease of riding when horse riding.[5] Since the Northern Wei dynasty, the shapes of the Han Chinese robes started to be influenced by the round collar robes.[6] The Northern Wei period was a period of cultural integration between the Xianbei and the Han Chinese; the Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing which included high boots and round-collar robes with narrow sleeves into Han clothing.[7]

The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchants class) living in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but with some East Asian influences (i.e. Chinese and early Turks).[8] Under the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right.[8] Their robes would often be buttoned up the neck forming the round collar but occasionally the collar (or lower button) would be undone to form lapel robes (Chinese: 翻领胡服; pinyin: Fānlǐng húfú; lit. 'Non-Chinese lapel robes').[8][6] Lapels robes were popular in Central regions (in the Sogdian regions), Qiuci and Gaochang but originated in Western Asia but spread eastwards through the Sogdians in Central Asia.[6] The Sogdians living in Central Asia and China wore turned-down lapel robes which was popular the Sogdian region of Central Asia in the Western Asia.[8] The Sogdians in China and Sogdia had both lapels down following the Iranian tradition or the tradition of the Saka people living in the Khotan Oasis.[8] It was also not rare for Chinese Sogdians to wear their robes with only the left lapel which was a distinguishing feature as the only left lapel robe was rarely found in Sogdia.[8] These lapels robes appeared as early as in Northern Wei depictions and are (for now) the earliest depictions of Xianbei or Han Chinese people wearing lapels robes; these lapels robes became a popular form of fashion in Northern Qi in the Han regions for both men and women.[6] This dressing customs of wearing lapel robe was later inherited and developed in the subsequent dynasties, in the Tang and Sui dynasties.[6]

  • Xianbei men wearing Yuanlingpao, Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi (550-577 AD)

  • Xianbei men wearing the round collar gown and the lapel gown, Northern Qi.

  • Sogdian figures wearing Sogdian-style round collar gown, Tomb of An Jia, 579 AD.

  • Funerary bed for Sogdian tradesman An Qie, Xi’an, showing dancer performing the Sogdian Whirl, 579 A.D.

Sui and Tang dynasties, and Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period[]

In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 – 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the term Han was used to refer to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during the Northern dynasties.[9] The round-collar jacket and gown, tied with a belt at the waist, became a typical form of fashion for both Tang dynasty men and women as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in the Tang dynasty.[10][1] Trousers were worn under the round collared robe.[1] In the Tang dynasty, a long red yuanlingpao with long sleeves was worn by the scholars and government officials; this was called panling lanshan and it was worn together with the putou (Chinese: 幞頭) hat.[11] In the Kaiyuan era (713 – 741 AD), slaves and the common soldiers also started to wear the lanshan (Chinese: 襴衫), which was the robes worn by the scholars.[12] Some women also wore banbi under their yuanlingshan.[13]

In the Tang dynasty, it was also popular for people to use fabrics (such as brocade) to decorate the collars, sleeves and front and their gowns; this clothing decoration customs is known as 'partial decorations of gowns' and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period.[14] Influenced by foreign cultures,[14] some yuanlingshan could also be decorated with Central Asian roundels (i.e. a form of partial decoration) which would run down at the centre of the robe.[13]

  • Mourning attendant, Tang Dynasty

  • Eunuchs wearing Yuanlingpao, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD.

  • Women wearing yuanlingpao (middle and right) , Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD.

  • Servant girl, Astana grave Tang dynasty painting, mid 8th century AD.

  • Servant girl, Astana grave Tang dynasty painting, mid 8th century AD.

  • Woman cross-dressing in male garment, she is wearing a banbi under her yuanlingpao; Tang dynasty.

  • Emperor Yizong of Tang, late Tang dynasty.

  • Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period.

During the Tang dynasty, it was also popular to wear Hufu (Chinese: 胡服; pinyin: húfú; lit. 'foreign dress' which was any style of clothing worn by foreigners or non-Chinese[12]). Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearing Hufu.[13] The Hufu which was popular was the clothing worn by the Tartars and the people who lived in the Western regions,[15] which was brought from the Silk Road.[16] During this period, the yuanlingpao could be turned into a lapel robe (influenced by those worn by the Sogdians) by unbuttoning the robes and the lapel robes could turned into the yuanlingpao when buttoned.[6] In some unearthed pottery figures wearing lapel robes dating from the Tang dynasty, it found that the yuanlingpao had three buttons on the collar.[6] The double overturned lapels with tight-fitting sleeves were known as kuapao (Chinese: 袴袍; a robe which originated from Central Asia[17]), and similarly to the yuanlingshan, the kuapao could be ornate with trims decorated with patterns at the front, sleeve-cuffs and along the lapels.[13] The kuapao was worn by men, but it could be used as a main garment for cross-dressing female attendant or they could be draped on the shoulders of both men and women like a cloak.[13][17]

The lapel robes worn during the Tang dynasty was categorized as Hufu instead of Hanfu; the use of these styles of robes showed the popularity of Hufu during the Tang dynasty, especially during the Wuzetian period (684 –704 AD).[18] The Yuanlingpao however was categorized as Han clothing.[1] After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences of hufu progressively started to fade and the clothing started to become more and more loose.[15]

  • Attendant wearing lapel robe, Sui dynasty Painted Pottery.

  • Tang dynasty sancai figures wearing Hufu-style lapel robes.

  • Tang dynasty woman wearing lapel robes, a hufu-style fashion.

  • Kuapao worn as a cloak

Song dynasty, Western Xia, Liao dynasty, and Jin dynasty[]

During the Song dynasty, the daily attire worn by the Song court officials were the round collar gown with long and loose sleeves; the round collar gown had a long line which divided the front part of the gown.[19] Kerchief, leather belt, and fish-shaped bag would be worn by the court officials as accessories.[19]

  • Maids of Song dynasty empress wearing yuanlingpao.

  • Northern Song Male buddhist donor with a loose-sleeved dark yuanlingpao.

  • Emperor Taizong of Song wearing a very large sleeved yuanlingpao.

  • Song dynasty Emperor Duzong wearing a very large sleeved yuanlingpao.

  • Men wearing yuanlingpao, Jurchen Jin dynasty,

  • Men wearing round collar robe, Western Xia mural.

  • Western xia men wearing tight sleeves yuanligpao.

  • Khitan men wearing tight sleeves yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty.

  • Khitan guard, Liao dynasty.

Ming dynasty[]

It is also the most common form of attire for (both male and female) officials and nobles during the Ming Dynasty. The difference between civilian's and officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan is that officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan has a mandarin square (補子) on it. The sleeves of the yuanlingshan are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve).[3] It has round collar, a right closure,[3] and side slits.

Men's yuanlingshan (regardless of civilian's/officials') in the Ming dynasty have side panels (Chinese: 暗擺; pinyin: Àn bǎi) at the side slits to conceal the undergarments.[3] These side panels are also referred as 'side ears' which are unique structures in the Ming round-neck gown; this specific structure reflect the combination Han Chinese traditional clothing and ethnic minority costumes (e.g. the Mongols).[3] The 'side ear' also allows for greater ease of movements and can increase the looseness of robe.[3] The collar is secured with a button, and a crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. However, yuanlingshan is not worn alone.

Underneath the Yuanlingshan is worn the dahu (褡護, sleeveless or half sleeve vest with side panels) and the tieli (貼裏, men's inner dress, sometimes replaced with the zhishen).

During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey blue Yuanlingshan (without Mandarin Square), buffalo horn panel belt (烏角帶) and wushamao. This set was known as 'Qing Su Fu' (青素服).

  • A noblewomen yuanlingpao, Ming dynasty.

  • Unearthed Ming dynasty artifact.

  • Ming dynasty court official.

  • Ming Emperor wearing the round-collar robes decorated with dragon roundels. This form of dress is called the longpao (i.e. the dragon robes)

  • Round collared robe, from the Tomb of Emperor Wanli, Ming dynasty.

  • Yuanlingshan artifact.

Qing dynasty[]

  • Court Robe, Qing dynasty,19th century.[20]

Wedding Garment[]

Men and women wearing the Traditional Chinese wedding.

Officials'/nobles' yuanlingshan are also wedding attire for commoners. The groom wears a wusha hat (烏紗帽) and the yuanlingshan of a 9th rank official robe.

The bride wears the phoenix crown (鳳冠) and a red yuanlingshan with the xiapei (霞帔) of a noblewoman.

Influence and Derivatives[]

Korea[]

Dallyeonpo[]

In Korea, the yuanlingpao was introduced during the Tang dynasty into what is known as the dallyeongpo (團領袍).[21] During the rule of Queen Jindeok of Silla, Kim Chunchu personally travelled to the Tang dynasty to request for clothing and belts and voluntarily accepted the official uniform system of the Tang dynasty; this included the dallyeongpo (團領袍) among many other clothing items.[22] Since then, the dallyeongpo continued to be worn until the end of Joseon.[21]

Wonsam[]

The initial shape of the wonsam worn by women from the 15th to 16th century was similar to the dallyeongpo and included the use of collar which was similar to the dallyeonpo collar.[23]

Japan[]

In Japan, the formal court attire for men and women was established by the start of the 8th century and was based on the court attire of the Tang dynasty.[24] The ho (round-necked outer robe) of the Sokutai (束帯), worn by the Japanese Emperors, and the noblemen,[25] was adopted from the yuanlingshan.[26]

According to the Ming dynasty's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of Changfu (常服羅) containing a red yuanlingshan with kirin mandarin square (大紅織金胷背麒麟圓領), dark blue dahu (青褡護), and green tieli (綠貼裏).

Vietnam[]

Áo viên lĩnh[]

According to the book Weaving a realm by the Vietnam Center, the Vietnamese (襖圓領), a 4-long flap robe with round neck,[27] was imported in Vietnam from China.[28] However, this fashion gradually faded away from the daily lives of the Vietnamese due to the clothing reforms decreed by the Nguyen Lords.[28]

  • Men wearing round collar robe, painting from The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains, 1363.

  • Clothing of Vietnamese people in Đàng Trong, 1675.

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ a b c d Wang, Xinyi; Colbert, François; Legoux, Renaud (2020). "From Niche Interest to Fashion Trend: Hanfu Clothing as a Rising Industry in China". International Journal of Arts Management. 23 (1). Retrieved 1 February 2021.
  2. ^ a b Wang, Fang (2018). "Study on Structure and Craft of Traditional Costumes of Edge". Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Economics and Management, Education, Humanities and Social Sciences (EMEHSS 2018). Atlantis Press: 584–588. doi:10.2991/emehss-18.2018.118. ISBN 978-94-6252-476-7.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g Yang, Shuran; Yue, Li; Wang, Xiaogang (2021-08-01). "Study on the structure and virtual model of "xiezhi" gown in Ming dynasty". Journal of Physics: Conference Series. 1986 (1): 012116. doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1986/1/012116. ISSN 1742-6588. S2CID 236985886.
  4. ^ 유혜영 (1992). "돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구". Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  5. ^ a b Dien, Albert E. (2007). Six dynasties civilization. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0-300-07404-8. OCLC 72868060.
  6. ^ a b c d e f g Zhao, Qiwang (2020). "Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties". 2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020). Francis Academic Press, UK: 141–147. doi:10.25236/icallh.2020.025 (inactive 31 October 2021).CS1 maint: DOI inactive as of October 2021 (link)
  7. ^ Migration and membership regimes in global and historical perspective : an introduction. Ulbe Bosma, Kh Kessler, Leo Lucassen. Leiden: Brill. 2013. pp. 183, 185–186. ISBN 978-90-04-25115-1. OCLC 857803189.CS1 maint: others (link)
  8. ^ a b c d e f Yatsenko, Sergey A. (2012). "Sogdian Costume in Chinese and Sogdian Art of the 6th-8th centuries". Serica - Da Qin, Studies in Archaeology, Philology and History on Sino-Western Relations. G. Malinowski, A. Paron, B. Szmoniewski, Wroclaw (1 ed.). Wydawnictwo GAJT. pp. 101–114. ISBN 9788362584406.
  9. ^ Holcombe, Charles (2018). A history of East Asia : from the origins of civilization to the twenty-first century. Cambridge University Press. pp. 99–100. ISBN 978-1-107-11873-7. OCLC 1117553352.
  10. ^ Hua, Mei (2011). Chinese clothing (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. pp. 34–36. ISBN 978-0-521-18689-6. OCLC 781020660.
  11. ^ Ka Shing, Charles Ko (2014-01-01). "The Development of Academic Dress in China". Transactions of the Burgon Society. 14 (1). doi:10.4148/2475-7799.1119. ISSN 2475-7799.
  12. ^ a b Yang, Shao-yun (2017). Chen, BuYun (ed.). "Changing Clothes in Chang'an". China Review International. 24 (4): 255–266. ISSN 1069-5834. JSTOR 26892132.
  13. ^ a b c d e Chen, Bu Yun (2013). Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) (Thesis). Columbia University. doi:10.7916/d8kk9b6d.
  14. ^ a b Zhao, Qiwang (2019). "The Origin of Partial Decorations in Gowns of the Northern Qi and Tang Dynasties". 2nd International Conference on Cultures, Languages and Literatures, and Arts: 342–349.
  15. ^ a b "Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty". en.chinaculture.org. p. 2. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  16. ^ "Woman's Costume in the Tang Dynasty". en.chinaculture.org. p. 1. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  17. ^ a b China : dawn of a golden age, 200-750 AD. James C. Y. Watt, Prudence Oliver Harper, Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. 2004. p. 311. ISBN 1-58839-126-4. OCLC 55846475.CS1 maint: others (link)
  18. ^ Hua, Mei (2011). Chinese clothing (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. p. 27. ISBN 978-0-521-18689-6. OCLC 781020660.
  19. ^ a b Zhang, Qizhi (2015). An introduction to Chinese history and culture. Heidelberg. p. 275. ISBN 978-3-662-46482-3. OCLC 907676443.
  20. ^ "Court Robe - 19th century". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-12-23.
  21. ^ a b Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia. Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong. Cham, Switzerland: Springer. 2018. p. 116. ISBN 978-3-319-97199-5. OCLC 1059514121. Archived from the original on 2018.CS1 maint: others (link)
  22. ^ Ju-Ri, Yu; Jeong-Mee, Kim (2006). "A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 30 (3): 458–469. ISSN 1225-1151.
  23. ^ Lim, Hyunjoo; Cho, Hyosook (2013). "A Study on the Periodic Characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 63 (2): 29–44. doi:10.7233/jksc.2013.63.2.029. ISSN 1229-6880.
  24. ^ Yarwood, Doreen (2011). Illustrated encyclopedia of world costume. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover Publications, Inc. p. 248. ISBN 978-0-486-43380-6. OCLC 678535823.
  25. ^ Traditional Japanese literature : an anthology, beginnings to 1600. Haruo Shirane (Abridged ed.). New York: Columbia University Press. 2012. p. 84. ISBN 978-0-231-50453-9. OCLC 823377029.CS1 maint: others (link)
  26. ^ "Dress - Japan". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  27. ^ "Vietnamese woman revives country's ancient clothes". Tuoi Tre News. 2019-10-08. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  28. ^ a b Times, Vietnam (2020-06-14). "Weaving a Realm: Bilingual book introduces Vietnam's costumes from the 15th century". Vietnam Times. Retrieved 2021-07-01.


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