List of Hanfu headwear

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Chinese headwear have a long history. According to some scholars, China used to be called "the Kingdom of Headwear" by people due to its variety of colourful and artistic style of hair ornament.[1] Chinese women, in particular, like to use flowers (either natural or artificial) as hair decorations for centuries.

Types of Headwear for males[]

Headwear of Male
Name Definition Suitable age Match Period Images
Mian Guan (冕冠) Shi er liu mian (十二旒冕) Twelve-tasselled Crown.

Initially all Mian Guan were worn by emperors, later emperors only wore this type.[2]

Adult Zhou – Ming Liu Bei Tang-detail.jpg Yellow Emperor.jpg Chinese Imperial Mian, Dingling.jpg
Jiuliu mian (九旒冕) Nine-tasselled Crown.

Worn by dukes and crown prince's servants.[3][4]

Adult Zhou – Han Guangwudi-Ming-Image1.jpg Mianguan.jpg
Others Baliu mian (八旒冕): Eight-tasselled Crown. Worn by princes and dukes.[5]Qiliu mian (七旒冕): Seven-tasselled Crown. Worn by ministers.[6]

Wuiu mian (五旒冕): Five-tasselled Crown. Worn by viscounts and barons.

Pibian (皮弁) Leather Crown. Embedded with jades. Worn by all nobles.[7] Adult Zhou – Ming Liang Wudi 3.jpg Ming crown.jpg Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic347 - 皮弁.svg
Liang Guan (梁冠) Tongtian Guan (通天冠)/

Gaoshan Guan (高山冠)

Sky-reaching Crown/High Mountain Crown. Worn by emperors in special occasions.[8][9][10] Adult tongtianguanfu (通天冠服) Qin – Ming Tongtianguan depicted on admonitions scroll.png Portrait de Song Xuanzu.jpg
Yuanyou Guan (远游冠) Travel Crown. Worn by emperors and princes. Similar to Tongtian Guan.[11] Also worn by dukes in Han dynasty.[10] Adult Qin – Ming Liang Wudi.jpg Yuanyou Guan in a Ming dynasty painting.jpg Imperial Encyclopaedia - Ceremonial Usages - pic369 - 遠遊冠
Diaochan Guan (貂蟬冠) Mink's Tail and Cicada's Wing Crown. Worn by emperor's servants and government officials.[12][13] Adult Qin – Ming Qu Shisi.jpg 史嵩之.jpg 王守仁容像.jpg
Jinxian Guan (進賢冠) Recommending Crown. First worn by confucian scholars, later worn by government officials.[14][10] Adult Zhou – Ming Jinxianguan from han dynasty tomb Hebei wangdu county 进贤冠 河北望都汉墓壁画.jpg 西晋青瓷对书俑 jinxianguan jin period 进贤冠 晋代.jpg Jinxian Guan in 五星二十八宿神形圖.jpg
Zhongjing Guan (忠靖冠) Loyal and stable crown. Worn by retired officials.[15][16] Adult Ming 林春澤容像 忠靖冠.jpg 忠靖冠服容像 忠靖冠.jpg 明忠靖冠 Zhongjing Guan.png
Shufa Guan (束发冠) Hair-gathering Crown. A small cap to gather hair inside, fixed with long hairpin. Daily wear of all male. Mini size, sometimes in shapes of Liangguan.[17] Adult Five Dynasties - Ming SuShi-Portrait.jpg Shu Fa Guan in a Song dynasty painting.png A man wearing Shufa Guan in a Tang dynasty painting.jpg
Chang Guan (长冠) Long Crown. Designed and First worn by Emperor Gaozu of Han. Later worn by Han dynasty's officials.[18] Adult Han
Pingshanze

(平上幘)

A cylindrical cap; it has a higher back and lower front. Used commonly by military personnel, while another variant called "Jieze"(介帻) is used by civil servants and commoners.[19][20] Han-Jin

Pinshangze unearthed from Lanjia Yard, Pixian County, Sichuan, Eastern Han dynasty, 25-220 AD, stone - Sichuan Provincial Museum - Chengdu, China - DSC04747.jpg

东晋执盾武士陶俑 江苏南京富贵山 pingshangze.jpg Pinshanze 北朝修城王高孝绪墓壁画.jpg
Longguan (籠冠) "Basket hat". Developed from the Wubian("武弁")-hat, alternatively also known as Wuguan "武冠", worn by military officials. [21] [22] Helmets or tall peaked caps; it extends down over the ears and neck.[20] It is semi-transparent.[22] Jin Han dynasty's Jinxian Guan.png 隋代笼冠陶俑 明器 1956年湖北武汉.jpg Qu Shisi.jpg
Lianhua Guan (莲花冠) Lotus Crown. First worn by highest rank Taoist Maste, later also worn by the nobility. Adult Tang - Song Taoist Triad.jpg Sui Yangdi Tang portrait detail.jpg 金莲花冠（沐详夫妇合藏墓）.jpg
Putou (襆頭) Chuijiao Putou (垂腳襆頭) Head cover/Head wrap. An early form of informal headwear dates back as early as Jin dynasty that later developed into several variations for wear in different occasions. Adult Tang – Ming Tangxuanzong.jpg Tang gao zu.jpg Gaozu of Tang Dynasty.jpeg
Zhanjiao Putou (展角幞頭) Spread-horn head cover. Designed by Emperor Taizu. Elongated horns on both sides can keep the distance between officials so they couldn't whisper to each other during court assemblies. Adult Changfu (Tang), Gongfu (Song-Ming) Tang – Ming Song Ningzong 1.png Song Lizong.png Song Yingzong 1.jpg
Zhanchi Putou (展翅幞頭) Spread-wing head cover. Commonly as Wushamao (乌纱帽), Black-cloth hat. Standard headwear of officials during the Ming dynasty. The term "Wushamao" is still frequently used as Chinese slang referring to government positions. Adult Ming 解縉.png 王衡.jpg 明朝烏紗帽.jpg
Yishan Guan (翼善冠) Philanthropy Crown, with wings folded upwards. Worn by emperors and princes of the Ming dynasty, as well as kings of many China's tributaries. Sometimes decorated with jewels and dragons. Adult Tang – Ming 明興獻王坐像 軸 (1).jpg Ming Wuzong.jpg Portrait assis de l'empereur Jiajing.jpg
Tang jin (唐巾) Adult Ming Kim Yuk 02.jpg
Gaowu mao (高屋帽) Baisha mao (白紗帽) Also known as white gauze hat. It was worn by the sovereigns of Liu-Song and Southern Qi, it was later inherited by the Sui dynasty.[23] Adult White gauze hat. Northern and Southern dynasties – Tang Chen Wendi Tang Detail.jpg Chen Feidi Tang wearing Baisha mao.jpg
Wusha Gaowu mao (烏紗高屋帽) High reach black gauze hat. Adult Northern and Southern dynasties – Song 章懷太子墓壁畫禮賓圖a.jpg
Zhulu mao (逐鹿帽) Adult Northern and Southern dynasties
Liuheyitong mao (六合一統帽) 'Six-part' United hat. Name originate from Ming dynasty's founder Hongwu Emperor uniting China in six direction, earth to sky, east to west, north to south. The hat would later develop into the "Guapi Mao"(瓜皮帽) skullcap in the Qing dynasty.[24] Adult Ming Ming dynasty man.jpg Liuheyitongmao hat 六合一統帽 颖国武襄公杨洪像.jpg Liuheyitongmao hat 六合一統帽 皇都积胜图.jpg
Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾) Adult Zhou – Han Wang Fuzhi.jpg Shu Shunsui.jpg
Fu jin (幅巾) Adult Han – Ming Wu Weiye.jpg 吳氏先祖容像七.jpg 湯顯祖像mingdynastyhanfubeizi.jpg
Cheng zi guan (程子冠) Adult Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms - Song 宋监察御史程颢.jpg Zhou Dunyi 2.JPG
Dongpo jin (東坡巾) Adult Song – Ming Su shi wearing Dongpo jin.jpg 吳氏先祖容像十四.jpg Zhu xi.jpg
Zhouzi jin (周子巾) Adult Song – Ming Shen Zhou Self-portrait at age 80.Palace Museum Beijing.jpg
Sifang pingding jin (四方平定巾) Adult Ming Yun Jeung.jpg
Wangjin (網巾) Adult Ming Wangjin illustrated in Sancai Tuhui.png Wangjin.jpg
Hutou mao (虎头帽) Tiger head hat. Children Song - Modern time 明夏葵《嬰戲圖》2.jpg The Childrens Museum of Indianapolis - Embroidered infant hat.jpg Chinese baby hat.jpg
Zhuangyuan mao (状元帽) Champion hat. Children Song - Modern time 狀元帽.jpg 狀元帽2.jpg 狀元帽3.jpg
Chixiao mao (鴟鴞帽) Owl hat. Children Song - Modern time 鴟鴞帽.jpg 鴟鴞帽2.jpg
Xianggong mao (相公帽) Husband hat. Children Song - Modern time 相公帽2.jpg 相公帽.jpg 公子帽.jpg
Wuguan (武冠) Military cap. The front of was ornamented with a dang (璫; a gold ornament in the form of animals, such as dragons, cicada, and people). In the Han dynasty military caps were also decorated with long-tailed pheasant's tail feathers to denominate martial status.[25][26][27][20]　 Adult Zhou-Jin 鹖冠 战国金银错狩猎纹镜 河南洛阳金村.jpg 武冠 han stone relief guard found in Deng county Henan 河南邓县出土东汉画像砖上的佩剑执笏武吏.jpg Wuguan heguan 戴鹖冠三彩俑 陕西西安独孤思贞墓 中国国家博物馆藏.jpg

Types of headwear for females[]

See also: Chinese hairpin
Headwear of Female
Name Definition Description Suitable age Match Period Images
Ji (笄) Hairpins. Single-pronged hairpin.[28] They were often inscribed with auspicious patterns.[29] Adult Neolithic – Qin 莺歌岭遗址 刻花骨簪.jpg Shang Jade Hairpin.jpg Shang dynasty bone hairpins.jpg
Zan(簪) Ornamental hairpins.[30] Long, single-pronged hairpin after Qin dynasty.Small ornaments (e.g. flowers) could also be affixed on it[28][31] Adult Han – Qing 凤首金顶银簪03564.jpg 明梅花形玉花头簪.jpg Tomb of Prince Chuang of Liang (梁莊王) - Hairpin 2.jpg
Chai(钗) U-shaped or V-shaped hairpin.[31] Two-pronged hairpin.[28][31] Adult Han – Qing Jin Chai.jpg 婴戏莲纹金钗04711.jpg Hairpin, China, Tang dynasty, 618-907, silver, gilt - Royal Ontario Museum - DSC04137.JPG
Three-legged hairpin.[31] Typically made of bronze.[31] Jin
Yanbin (掩鬓) The hairpin covering sideburns. Adult Ming – Qing 明天师骑艾虎银脚金掩鬓.jpg 明代金累丝凤穿花掩鬓.jpg
Buyao (步摇); "step-sway" or "dangling hairpin" or literally "dangling with one's walking steps".[32][33][28][34] Buyao Zan (步摇簪) Buyao hairpin. Single-pronged hairpin with dangling decorations. Adult Han – Qing Qing dynasty's gold and tian-tsui buyao (清镀金点翠鸟架步摇).png
Buyao Shu

(步摇树)

Buyao Tree. Tree-shaped dangling decoration centered at front of hair. Adult Han – Ming 花树状金步摇06323.jpg Deer Head Buyao Guan (鹿首步摇冠).jpg Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped - woman wearing buyao tree.jpg
Buyao Guan

(步摇冠)

Buyao Crown. Crown consisted of dangling decorations. Adult Han – Ming Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped - woman wearing buyao crown.jpg
Zan hua (簪花) Flower hairpin. Could be fresh flower, silk flower, and flowers made with other materials. Man could also wear. Adult Tang - Qing Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped woman wearing buyao tree and zanhua.jpg Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped - woman wearing buyao tree and zanhua.jpg 王處直墓壁畫3a.jpg
Huasheng (華勝) Round flower hairpin centered front of hair. Adult Han – Song 王處直墓壁畫1a - cropped - woman wearing Huasheng.jpg 宋银鎏金幡胜簪.jpg
Di Guan (翟冠) Adult Song - Ming Impératrice Du.jpg Mingnoblewoman2.jpg 吳氏先祖容像六.jpg
Hua Guan (花冠) Flower Crown.[35] Adult Han – Song Song court lady.jpg
Tang gongzhu touguan

(唐公主头冠)

Tang Princess's Crown Adult Tang Tangcrown.jpg
Feng Guan (鳳冠) Huashu Guan

(花树冠)

Flower Tree Crown. Adult Tang
Feicui Fengguan (翡翠凤冠) Jade Phoenix Crown. Adult Tang Lady Chai, aka Lady Liang-kuo.jpg
Long Feng Huacha Guan (龙凤花钗冠) Dragon Phoenix Hairpin Crown. Adult Song-Ming Seated Portrait of Ningzong's Empress.jpg Impératrice Wu.jpg L'impératrice Li.jpg
Yanju Guan

(燕居冠)

Adult Ming 孝恭章皇后孙氏（明宣宗)1.jpg 仁孝文皇后1.jpg 孝洁肃皇后陈氏.jpg
Mo E (抹额) Piece of garment covering forehead. Adult Tang-Qing Yongzheng twelve beauties women 0901.jpg
Lianhua mao (莲花帽) Lotus hat. Children Song - Modern time 蓮花帽3.jpg
Shubi (梳篦)[36] or zhi Shu (梳) Comb.[37] Ancient - Modern Shang Jade Comb.jpg Comb, China, Tang dynasty, 618-907, silver, gilt - Royal Ontario Museum - DSC04145.JPG Combs (10112837945).jpg
Bi (篦) Fine-toothed comb.[37] Spring and Autumn period - Modern Changzhou Double-edged Fine-toothed Comb 01 2015-04.jpg
Mili (羃䍦) A hat with a long veil which covered the face and body Tang dynasty - Tang dynasty 燕妃墓捧冪篱女侍圖.jpg
Weimao (帷帽) A hat with a hanging veil which covers the face.[38] Tang dynasty Veiled hat - Eighteen Songs of a Nomad Flute- The Story of Lady Wenji.jpg
Mianyi (面衣) or gaitou (蓋頭) Veils or "facial clothes". A purple gauze which hangs on a hat from the front to the back with 4 ribbons of different colours hanging down from on the shoulders. Originated from the Tang dynasty's weimao (帷帽).[38] Adult Song dynasty - Unknown Song dynasty Gaitou Hat 2.jpg Song dynasty Gaitou hat 1.jpg
(胡帽) "Barbarian hat". A hat without the veil. Tang dynasty
Liangmao (涼帽) "Cool hat". A hat worn by the Hakka women, a Han ethnic subgroup when working in the fields. It is made of a flat disc of woven bamboo with a hole in the centre and has a black (or blue) cotton fringe.[39][40] Unknown - Present SZ 深圳博物館 Shenzhen Museum 深圳民俗展廳 Folk Cuture Exhibition Hall Sept 2017 IX1 LiangMao cool hats.jpg

See also[]

References[]

  1. ^ Han, Myun-Sook; Im, Sung-Kyung (2005). "A Study on the Artificial Flowers as a Hair Ornament in China" (PDF). Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference (복식문화학회:학술대회논문집). The Costume Culture Association: 67–69. Archived from the original on 2021.
  2. ^ "32". Rites of Zhou Annotation. 云“缫不言皆，有不皆”者，谓王之五冕，缫则有十二，有九，有七，有五，有三，其玉旒皆十二，故缫不言皆。有不皆者，则九旒已下是也。玉言皆，则五冕旒皆十二玉也。
  3. ^ "32". Rites of Zhou. 诸侯之缫斿九就...每缫九成，则九旒也。
  4. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 皇太子...其侍祀则平冕九旒
  5. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 王公八旒。
  6. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 卿七旒。
  7. ^ "4". Rites of Zhou. 王之皮弁，会五采玉綦，象邸玉笄...诸侯及孤卿大夫之冕、韦弁、皮弁、弁绖...
  8. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 天子郊祀天地明堂宗庙，元会临轩，黑介帻，通天冠，平冕...通天冠，本秦制。
  9. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 高山冠，一曰侧注。制如通天，顶不邪却，直竖，无山述展筒，中外官、谒者、仆射所服。太傅胡广说曰：“高山冠，盖齐王冠也。秦灭齐，以其君冠赐近臣谒者服之。”
  10. ^ a b c Feng, Ge; Du, Zhengming (2015). Traditional Chinese rites and rituals. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. ISBN 9781443887830. Retrieved 4 February 2021.
  11. ^ "25". Book of Jin. 远游冠，傅玄云秦冠也。似通天而前无山述，有展筒横于冠前。皇太子及王者后、帝之兄弟、帝之子封郡王者服之。诸王加官者自服其官之冠服，惟太子及王者后常冠焉。太子则以翠羽为緌，缀以白珠，其馀但青丝而已。
  12. ^ "48". Yiwen Leiju. 秦始皇复古冠貂蝉，汉因而不改。此内官侍帷幄，受顾问，拾遗于左右，出则负玺以从，秩二千石。
  13. ^ "36". Book of Han. 今王氏一姓乘朱轮华毂者二十三人，青紫貂蝉充盈幄内，鱼鳞左右。
  14. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 进贤冠，古缁布冠也，文儒者之服也。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸。公侯三梁，中二千石以下至博士两梁，自博士以下至小史私学弟子，皆一梁。宗室刘氏亦两梁冠，示加服也。
  15. ^ "明忠靖冠".
  16. ^ "67". History of Ming. 帝因复制《忠静冠服图》颁礼部，敕谕之曰：“祖宗稽古定制，品官朝祭之服，各有等差。第常人之情，多谨于明显，怠于幽独。古圣王慎之，制玄端以为燕居之服。比来衣服诡异，上下无辨，民志何由定。朕因酌古玄端之制，更名‘忠静’，庶几乎进思尽忠，退思补过焉。朕已著为图说，如式制造。在京许七品以上官及八品以上翰林院、国子监、行人司，在外许方面官及各府堂官、州县正堂、儒学教官服之。武官止都督以上。其馀不许滥服。”礼部以图说颁布天下，如敕奉行。按忠静冠仿古玄冠，冠匡如制，以乌纱冒之，两山俱列于后。冠顶仍方中微起，三梁各压以金线，边以金缘之。四品以下，去金，缘以浅色丝线。
  17. ^ Nanjing Museum General Office. "Info of 'Amber Shufa Guan'". 束发冠是古代男子用来约发的小冠，属闲居之服。出现在五代，宋代以后使用者渐多，至明代尤为盛行。束发冠通常以玉石、木材或金属丝制成，此外也有牛角、龟壳、椰壳等质地的。外形变化较多，常见者作梁冠状，有的还缀有各种珠宝，使用时扣覆在发髻之上，以簪子固定。
  18. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 长冠，一曰斋冠，高七寸，广三寸，促漆纚为之，制如板，以竹为里。初，高祖微时，以竹皮为之，谓之刘氏冠，楚冠制也。民谓之鹊尾冠，非也。祀宗庙诸祀则冠之。皆服袀玄，绛缘领袖为中衣，绛裤袜，示其赤心奉神也。五郊，衣帻裤袜各如其色。此冠高祖所造，故以为祭服，尊敬之至也。
  19. ^ "26". 晋书. “介帻服文吏，平上帻服武官也”
  20. ^ a b c Laursen, Sarah (2019). "10 Dressing the Dead in Jin China". The art and archaeology of bodily adornment : studies from Central and East Asian mortuary contexts. Sheri Lullo, Leslie V. Wallace. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. pp. 176–195. ISBN 978-1-351-26832-5. OCLC 1090702934.
  21. ^ "11". Book of Sui. 武冠，一名武弁，一名大冠，一名繁冠，一名建冠，今人名曰籠冠，即古惠文冠也。天子元服，亦先加大冠。今左右侍臣及諸將軍武官通服之。侍中常侍，則加金璫附蟬焉，插以貂尾，黃金為飾云。
  22. ^ a b Dien, Albert E. (2007). Six dynasties civilization. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. p. 313. ISBN 978-0-300-07404-8. OCLC 72868060.
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  24. ^ 崔, 荣荣; 牛, 犁 (2017). "从瓜皮帽的流行演变看社会变迁". 江西社会科学 (8): 133–137.
  25. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. “武冠，一曰武弁大冠，诸武官冠之。侍中、常侍加黄金珰，附蝉为文，貂尾为饰，谓之赴惠文冠。”
  26. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. “武冠，俗谓之大冠，环缨无蕤，以青系为绲，加双鹖尾，竖左右，为鹖冠云”
  27. ^ 禽经. “鹖，毅鸟也，毅不知死。状类鸡，首有冠，性敢于斗，死犹不置，是不知死也。《左传》：鹖冠，武土戴之，象其勇也。 ”
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  40. ^ Garrett, Valery (2012). Chinese Dress : From the Qing Dynasty to the Present. New York: Tuttle Pub. p. 327. ISBN 978-1-4629-0694-9. OCLC 794664023.
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