Ruqun

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ruqun
Aoqun 2.jpg
A Chinese lady wearing an aoqun, a style of ruqun popular among Chinese women during the Ming dynasty and Qing dynasty.
Chinese name
Traditional Chinese襦裙
Simplified Chinese襦裙
Literal meaningJacket and skirt
Korean name
Hangul유군
Hanja襦裙

The ruqun (Chinese: 襦裙; Korean: 유군) is a traditional Chinese attire which consists of a short jacket (Chinese: 襦; pinyin: rú) worn under a long skirt (Chinese: 裙; pinyin: qún).[1] However, when use as a general term, ruqun (Chinese: 襦裙) can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment and a wrap-around lower skirt, or yichang (Chinese: 衣裳; pinyin: yīcháng/yīshang), in which yi (Chinese: 衣) means upper garment, and chang (Chinese: 裳) means lower garment.[2][3][4] In a broad sense, ruqun can include shanqun (Chinese: 衫裙) and aoqun (simplified Chinese: 袄裙; traditional Chinese: 襖裙; Korean: 오군) in its definition.[5][6][4][7]

As a set of attire, the ruqun (襦裙) was worn by both men and women.[2][5][6] The ruqun was however primarily worn by women,[8] and it is the traditional hanfu for Han Chinese women.[9] The aoqun and/or ruqun is the most basic set of clothing of Han Chinese women in China and has been an established tradition for thousands of years.[6]

Terminology[]

The terminology of ruqun (Chinese: 襦裙) is relatively unstable in both original texts and in secondary sources as different regions may use different terms to describe the same clothing.[5] The ruqun can refer to a specific style of wearing an upper garment called ru (襦; short jacket) under a qun (裙; long skirt).[1] But it can also be used a broad term to refer to a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment and a skirt (qun; 裙) as lower garment.[2]

The term ru has sometimes been used as a synonym for the clothing items shan (衫) and ao (袄).[5][10] Ru can also be a short jacket with either short or long sleeves.[11] In addition, the term changru (长襦; lit. long 'ru') also appear in texts and has been described as the precursor of the long-length ao (i.e. long jackets; also known as chang ao) by scholars.[5] Some forms of changru, also known as shuhe (裋褐; i.e. coarse clothing), could reach the knee or the hip level; it was cross-collared closing at the right.[12]

Other terms such as daru (大襦; 'outerwear'), shangru (上襦; 'jackets'),[13] and yiru (衣襦)[11] also exist.

The term ao appears in a Sui dynasty rime dictionary called Qieyun, published in 601 AD and can be translated as "padded coat", but it can also refer to a lined upper garment.[14]

The term shan can also refer to long garments.[10] A form of shan which appeared in the Han and Wei period was a new type of gown which had equal front pieces which were straight instead of cross-collared and was fastened with a string; it was also a form of unlined upper garment with straight sleeves and wide cuffs.[15] This shan was worn by men and women and became popular as it was more convenient for wearing.[15]

The term aoqun (袄裙) typically refers to a specific way of wearing the ao (袄) on top of the lower garment.[1] The Xinhua Dictionary defines ao as a general term referring to an "upper garment with multiple layers". As such, it is a thick piece of clothing worn mostly during cold seasons. Usually, the ao is worn outside of the lower garment, which is often a skirt or mamian.[16]

The term shanqun (衫裙) is a type of clothing style that wears the shan (衫) over the lower garment. The Xinhua Dictionary defines shan as a general term referring to an "upper garment with a single layer". Historically, shan comes in as varying styles, shapes and lengths, and is usually worn outside of the lower garment. However, there are also cases when the shan is worn under the lower garment, as during the Jin dynasty.[16] The Jin dynasty book Gujinzhu (《古今注》) states that women had been wearing one-piece clothing that has the upper and lower garments connected together since the time of the Yellow Emperor, until the Qin dynasty, when shan was invented. In addition, the term shanqun is sometimes used interchangeably with ruqun to refer to short upper garment worn on skirt.[7]

The term yichang (衣裳), also sometimes spelled yishang, is a general term referring to any style of clothing consisted of a pair of upper and lower garments; a yi (衣; a type of upper garment) and a chang (裳) which is a lower garment which can either a skirt or trousers.[6] The term yi can also be a generic term for clothing.[11]

Ruqun, aoqun, and shanqun all belong to the category of yichang. Yichang is not only used to describe specific types of traditional Chinese clothing, but also modern western clothing styles consisted of separate top and bottom garments as well.

  • An illustration of a shan (衫) from the Qing dynasty imperial encyclopedia Gujin Tushu Jicheng.

  • Illustration of Qing yiqun (青衣裙) from Gujin Tushu Jicheng.

  • Modern illustration of two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women.

History[]

As a set of attired consisting of an upper garment and a skirt; the ruqun is the eldest type of hanfu.[17] The Ten Wings in the Book of Changes claims that it was worn by Three Sovereigns and Five Emperors: the legendary Yellow Emperor, Emperor Shun and Emperor Yao, in the form of yichang (衣裳).[18][19]

"Hence it was that these (sovereigns) were helped by Heaven; they had good fortune, and their every movement was advantageous. Huang Di, Yao, and Shun (simply) wore their [yichang (衣裳)] (as patterns to the people), and good order was secured all under heaven."[19]

  • A portrait of Huangdi, the Yellow Emperor, painting Han dynasty.

  • A portrait of Emperor Yao, painting Han dynasty.

  • A portrait of Emperor Shun, Han dynasty painting.

Shang dynasty[]

In Shang dynasty, the basic form of clothing was established as the combination of upper and lower garment;[17][20] this was known as yichang (衣裳).[6][21] The chang (裳) consisted of a narrow, ankle-length skirt, and upper garment called yi (衣) was a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic which was tied with a sash.[22][23][24] The yi could be cross-collared,[21] and it was worn over the chang.[25] The yichang was a unisex garment.[25]

  • Statuette of a Standing Dignitary, China, Shang dynasty, Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Harvard University.

Zhou dynasty, Spring and Autumn Period, and Warring States Period[]

The Zhou dynasty, people continued to wear yichang, similar to the Shang dynasty; however the Zhou-dynasty style yichang was slightly looser and the sleeves could either be broad or narrow.[26] The yi was cross-collared; it was tied to the right and a sash was used around the waist to tie it closed.[26] The skirt, chang, could vary from knee to ground length.[26] In Zhou dynasty, men also wore short skirts similar to a kilt.[27]

In the Western Zhou dynasty, it was popular to wear ruqun (i.e. jacket with skirt).[28][29] Ruqun (jacket with skirt) was also worn by men and women during the Warring States period.[30] Elites women in the Warring States period also wore a blouse or a jacket, which was fastened to the right to form a V-shaped collar and was waist-length, along with a long full skirt.[31] The women's blouse tended to have relatively straight and narrow sleeves.[31] During the Warring States Period and the Spring and Autumn period, a new form of clothing emerged called shenyi, which combined the upper and lower garment into a one-piece robe.

  • Man wearing shanqun (or ruqun) featured in the bronze armed warrior holding up chime bells.

  • Pair of shamans or attendants, Chu culture, Warring States period, 4th-3rd century BC, Portland Art Museum, Oregon.

Qin and Han dynasty[]

Even though the clothing of the Warring states period were old, they continued to be worn in Qin and Han dynasties, this included the wearing of cross-collared blouse and skirts.[31]

Ruqun (i.e. the combination of blouse and skirts) was worn during by elite women and ordinary women.[31] Ordinary women during the Han dynasty was wearing ruqun (jackets under skirts) which came in various colours throughout the year.[30] Ordinary women wore plainer form of ruqun; the skirts were typically plained but the sash which was worn around the waist was decorated.[31]

During the Qin and Han dynasties, women wore skirts which was composed of four pieces cloth sewn together; a belt was often attached to the skirt, but the use of a separate belt was sometimes used by women.[32] The popularity of the jacket and skirt combination briefly declined after the fall of the Eastern Han dynasty, but returned into fashion in the Jin and Northern Wei dynasties and continued to be worn until the Qing dynasty.[31]

  • A noble lady figure, Western Han dynasty, 206 B.C.-A.D. 25.

  • A Han Dynasty painting illustrates women wearing ruqun, with blouses tucked into skirts

  • A woman in ruqun, i.e. a black cross-collar upper garment tucked inside a red skirt, Dahuting Eastern Han Tombs Mural.

  • Thin silk skirt, unearthed form Mawangdui Tomb, Han dynasty.

  • Mawangdui Han Skirt

Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties[]

The women ruqun was popular during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties.[33][34] In the early Six dynasties period, women wore ruqun (i.e. cross-collared jacket and long skirt) and the jacket of the commoner women was longer than commoner's men.[34] Elite women in the Wei and Jin dynasty wore the combination of wide-cuffed, V-shaped, unlined blouse which was made of pattern fabric and was lined at the neck with a decorative strip of cloth, a long skirt which came in different styles, and apron.[14]

In the Wei Dynasty and Jin Dynasty, women started to wear much longer upper garments which needed to be put out of the skirt in a style called shanqun (衫裙).[dubious – discuss] The shanqun (衫裙) co-existed with the ruqun (i.e. jacket under skirt).

At Luoyang during the Northern Wei dynasty, several variety of clothing styles found on female tomb figures were largely derived from the traditional ruqun (i.e. jacket and skirt) style.[35] One style of ruqun was the combination of short jacket (usually belted and tied at the front of the jacket) with wide sleeves which falls to the knee or below knee level with a very high waist, pleated and multicoloured long skirt.[35] Based on a female tomb figure dating from the Eastern Wei, this form of ruqun is jacket worn over skirt.[35] A popular form of ruqun was the jacket worn under skirt.[35]

However, in the early Six dynasties, most ordinary men did not wear ruqun anymore; men, instead wore trousers under their cross-collared jacket (i.e. shanku).[34] The men's jacket were either hip-length or knee-length.[34] The jackets can be tied with a belt or with other forms of closure.[34]

  • Women wearing ruqun (middle and right), Three Kingdoms.

  • On the left, a woman wearing ruqun, Three Kingdoms (220-280 AD).

  • Western Jin Pottery Female Figure.

  • 前秦紫缬襦绯碧裙.jpg
  • Yanju's tomb, dancer.jpg
  • Southern Dynasties Brick Relief 06.jpg

  • Women wearing ruqun, Northern Qi.

  • 南朝滑石女俑.jpg
  • 南朝陶女俑.jpg

Sui and Tang dynasties[]

Main article: Qixiong ruqun

During the Sui and Tang Dynasty, women wore the traditional ruqun wherein the skirts were tied higher and higher up the waist, until they were eventually tied above the breasts, worn with short upper garment.[36][37] This form of style of ruqun is dubbed qixiong ruqun. In addition to the normal crossed collar blouses, parallel/straight collar blouses were also worn in this period, thus exposing the cleavage of the breasts. Some Tang dynasty women skirts had accordion pleats.[38] Red coloured skirts were popular.[37] There was also a skirt called "Pomegranate skirt" for its red colour, and another skirt called "Turmeric skirt" for its yellow colour.[38]

  • Woman in qixiong ruqun, Sui dynasty.

  • 唐三彩釉陶梳妆女坐俑2.jpg
  • Xian May 2007 115.jpg

  • A Tang Dynasty painting illustrates women wearing ruqun, with skirts tied above the breasts and short parallel-collar blouses

  • Another Tang Dynasty painting illustrating ruqun

  • A Tang Dynasty palace concert wearing ruqun

  • Gu Hongzhong's Night Revels, Detail 2.jpg
  • Zhou Fang. Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses. (46x180) Liaoning Provincial Museum, Shenyang..jpg
  • Zhou Fang. Court Ladies Playing Double-sixes. Freer. Detail.jpg
  • 韋貴妃墓壁畫1.jpg

Song, Liao, Western Xia, Jin, and Yuan dynasties[]

See also: Fashion in Yuan dynasty

Women continued to wear the Tang dynasty's fashion of wearing the upper garment and skirts tied around their breasts until the Song Dynasty.[39] In the Song dynasty, the women's skirts were lowered from the breast level back to the normal waistline.[39] Pleated skirts were introduced and became the main feature of the upper class women.[37]

In Liao dynasty, the Song-style and the Tang-style clothing coexisted together; both Khitan women and Han Chinese women in the Liao wore the Han Chinese style Tang-Song dress.[40]

In the Yuan dynasty, ruqun continued to be worn by women; they could also wear a banbi over their ruqun.[41]

  • Commoner women wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.

  • Sculpture of maids wearing ruqun, Song dynasty.

  • Women possibly wearing shanqun (upper garment over skirt) and beizi (Song-style clothing), inner chamber of the Tomb of Zhang Kuangzheng, Liao dynasty.

  • Khitan women wearing Tang-style clothing; Baoshan tomb No.2 wall-painting of Liao dynasty.

  • Figure of a Woman Jin-Yuan dynasty China 13th-14th century.

  • Ruqun and banbi, Yuan dynasty.

  • Woman wearing shanqun, Yuan dynasty.

Ming dynasty[]

In terms of appearance, the Ming dynasty ruqun (i.e. the short jacket and skirt) was similar to the Song dynasty's ruqun.[38] Compared to the ruqun worn in the Tang dynasty, the Ming dynasty ruqun was more gentle and elegant; it was also less lavish and yet less rigid and strict as the ruqun worn in the Song dynasty.[42] One difference from the Song dynasty ruqun is the addition of a small short waist skirt which was worn by young maidservants; it is assumed that it was worn as an apron to protect the long skirt under it.[42] The short overskirt was called yaoqun.[5]

In the early Ming Dynasty, ruqun's variant, shanqun, went through a major change when women stopped using the sash. This new style of ruqun, also called aoqun (袄裙; 襖裙), became popular in the late Ming Dynasty.[dubious – discuss]

By the Ming Dynasty, the ruqun became the most common form of attire for women. The sleeves of the blouse were mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (Chinese: 琵琶袖; lit. 'pipa sleeve'). The collar was of the same colour as the clothing. Often, there was an optional detachable protective huling (Chinese: 護領; lit. 'protect collar') sewn to the collar. The huling can be white or any dark colour, and is used to protect the collar from being rotten by sweat, therefore to extend the life of the clothing. Towards the start of the Qing Dynasty, the skirt was mostly baizhequn (Chinese: 百摺裙; lit. 'hundred pleat skirt') or mamianqun.[dubious – discuss]

By the late Ming dynasty, the aoqun (jacket over skirt) became more prevalent than the ruqun (short jacket under skirt); and the ao became longer in length.[5] By the late Ming dynasty, jackets with high collars started to appear.[43] The standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver,[44] called zimukou (Chinese: 子母扣).[45] The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles.[44] In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).[44]

  • A painting by Ming Dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun

  • A painting by Ming Dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun

  • A painting by Ming Dynasty painter Tang Yin illustrating women in ruqun

  • Illustration of Ming Dynasty ruqun

  • A woman (left) wearing an aoqun (i.e. top over skirt), Ming dynasty.

  • Ming dynasty aoqun.

  • Aoqun, Ming dynasty.

  • Group of women wearing aoqun, Ming dynasty

  • A ming dynasty woman wearing a chang ao over a skirt (possibly a mamian skirt). A blue pifeng is worn over the outfit. The ao jacket is long and has a high stand-up collar.

Qing dynasty[]

During the Qing dynasty, the aoqun was the most prominent clothing of Han Chinese women.[5][46] The ruqun (i.e. short jacket under skirt) continued to be worn in early Qing dynasty,[4] but the later Qing dynasty depictions of ruqun in arts were mostly based on earlier paintings rather than the lived clothing worn by women in this period.[5] In the late Qing, women wore the long jacket ao with the skirt.[47] It was fashionable to wear the ao (袄) with the baizhequn (百摺裙) and the mamianqun.[4]

The ao in the Qing dynasty has a front centre closure and then curves crossover to the right before secured with frog buttons.[5] The front closing, collar, hem, and sleeves cuff have edging of contrasting pipings and side slits.[5] The skirts have a flat front and back panels with knife-pleated sides.[5]

In Qing, the high collar continued to be used but it was not a common feature in clothing before the 20th century.[43] In the late Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead of an occasional feature. For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high collar could be worn over their trousers (shanku) but also over their skirts. The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in the first few years of the republic.[43]

Another form of ruqun worn in that period is called qungua (Chinese: 裙褂), which is composed of gua (褂; a jacket with central closure which closes with buttons) worn with a qun (裙) skirt.[48] The gua jacket was a popular form of jacket in Qing and was worn as a summer jacket instead of the ao which was usually worn in winter.[4] The qungua also referred to one style of Qing dynasty wedding dress.[48]

  • Illustration of ruqun and pifeng during Qing Dynasty

  • A woman wearing aoqun under a pifeng (aka beizi).

  • Qing dynasty aoqun, the blue ao (jacket) has a slanted/curved opening.

  • Qing dynasty Han Chinese women wearing Manchu-influenced aoqun and qungua.

  • Cantonese Han noble lady with her servants in 1900s wears Manchu-influenced aoqun.

  • Woman's wedding costume from China, an aoqun. c. 1900.

  • A bride wearing aoqun,

Modern[]

Republic of China[]

Wenming xinzhuang[]

In the early 1910s and 1920's, young women wore aoqun called Wenming xinzhuang (文明新裝), also known as the "civilized costume" or "civilized attire".[6][49][50] It originated from the traditional yishang (衣裳) and the basic style of this clothing is clearly inherited from ancient Han Chinese clothing although the details have changed over time.[6] The Wenming xinzhuang continued the unbroken tradition of Han Chinese women's matching a jacket with a skirt which has been established for thousand of years.[6]

The ao of the Wenming xinzhuang was typically cyan and blue in colour while the long skirt was dark in colour, mostly in black; the ao had no complex ornaments as bindings and embroidery was rejected in this period.[6] There was a narrow trim which would bind the hem and the side vents were rectangular in shape.[6] The ao typically had a standing collar and long in shape with its hemline typically reaching below hip height and sometimes even at knee-height.[6] The sleeves were short and left the wrist exposed.[6] The skirt was derived from the baizhequn (百摺裙) and became a dark long skirt with larger pleats.[6] With time, the skirt length eventually shortened to the point where the calves of the wearer was exposed, and the ao had a lower collar and an arc shaped vents started to appear on both sides.[6] This style of clothing eventually faded in the early 1930s.[6]

21st Century: Modern hanfu[]

In the 21st Century, several forms of ruqun, whose design are often based on the previous dynasties traditional ruqun but with modern aesthetics, gained popularity following the Hanfu movement.[51][52]

  • Men and women wearing different style of modern ruqun.

  • Ruqun sold in clothing store, 2018.

  • Modern qixiong ruqun.

  • Modern Ming dynasty aoqun

Construction and Design[]

As a set of garments, the ruqun consists of an upper and lower garment.

The ruqun can be categorized into types based on the waist height of the skirt:

  • Mid-rise (齊腰; qíyāo),
  • High-rise (高腰; gāoyāo) and
  • Qixiong ruqun (齐胸襦裙; qíxiōngrúqún).

The ruqun can also be categorized based on the collar style. The collar style of the upper garment can be divided into:

  • crossed collar (交領; jiāolǐng),
  • parallel collar (對襟; duìjīn), also known as straight collar (直领; Zhiling).
Summary of garments
Component Romanization Hanzi Definition
Upper garment Yi 衣 Open cross-collar upper garment, or refers to any form upper garment.[21] It is unisex.[9]
Ru 襦 Open cross-collar upper garment,[26] only worn by women.

It typically refers to a short jacket.[5][3]

It is usually waist-length, but longer forms of ru can also be found.[5]

The ru can be single-layered or multi-layered (i.e. double layered or padded).[53][3]

Changru 长襦 A long ru jacket; the precursor of the long ao.[5]
Ao 袄 Multi-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[21] It was mainly worn as winter clothing.[21][4]
Shan 衫 Lit. translated as "shirt".[54] Single-layer open cross-collar shirt or jacket.[53][26] It can also be worn over the yi (衣).[26]
Changao 長襖 A longer version of the ao
Gua 褂 A jacket with a central closure which closes with buttons.[48] They appeared to be made of thinner fabric than the ao and was worn in summer.[4] It was worn as a female wedding jacket.[48]
Lower garment Chang/shang 裳 Skirt for men,[26] or may refers to any form of lower garment including skirts and trousers.[6] In the Shang dynasty, the chang could also refer to an ankle-length skirt which was a unisex garment.
Qun 裙 Skirt for women.[26]

Women's skirts[]

See also: List of Hanfu

Throughout history, Han Chinese women wore many kind of skirts which came in variety of styles; some of which had their own specific names.

Types of ruqun[]

  • Mianfu
  • Qixiong ruqun
  • Qungua (裙褂): a type of ruqun worn as a Traditional Chinese Wedding dress in Qing and in modern era.
  • Tanling ruqun: a type of ruqun with a U-shaped upper garment
  • Xiuhefu (秀禾服): a type of aoqun worn as a Traditional Chinese Wedding dress in Qing and in modern era.
  • (玄端): a very formal dark ruqun with accessories; equivalent to the Western white tie.

See also[]

  • Han Chinese clothing
  • List of Han Chinese clothing

References[]

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