List of Hanfu

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A list of Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, in category of different clothing style. This page also addresses provides a list of garments.

Informal wear[]

Two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or weighted braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

Zhongyi (中衣), which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.

The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi (中衣). The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.

For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes.

List of Inner garments
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhongyi 中衣 Zhongyi.JPG
Baofu 抱腹 Han[1]
Dudou 肚兜,

兜肚, or 兜兜

Qing The Childrens Museum of Indianapolis - Embroidered infant undergarment.jpg
Hehuan Jin 合欢襟 Yuan dynasty[2]
Liangdang 两当 It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels.[1] A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China.[2] Wei and Jin[1]
Moxiong 抹胸 Song[1]
Xieyi 亵衣 Pre-Han[1]
Xinyi 心衣 Han[1]
Zhuyao 主腰 Ming[1]
List of informal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhiju 直裾 Straight lapelled, full body garment. Pre-Qin - Han Western Han kneeling female pottery figurine.JPG Archer figurine from the Tomb of the King of Chu Beidong Mountain Xuzhou Jiangsu Western Han Dynasty 2nd century BCE MH 02.jpg Han zhiju.jpg
Mawangdui Han Gown (10113065094).jpg Mawangdui Han Gown (10113118165).jpg Zhiju1.jpg
Quju 曲裾 Diagonal body wrapped, full body garment. Pre-Qin - Han Shanghai Museum 2006 17-14.jpg Xin Zhui 1.JPG
Kuzhe 裤褶 Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing.[3][4] A short coat with trousers. Pre-Qin - Ming. Western Han Pottery Warrior.jpg Western Han Terracotta Soldier 1.jpg
Paofu
Yesa/ Yisan

or

Yisa

曳撒 or

一撒

A form of kuzhe.[3][4] Ming; Modern Yisan.jpg Yisan2.jpg
Zhisunfu or yisefu 质孙服 or 一色服 "robe of one colour" Introduced in Yuan; later became a uniform for the military officials Ming. Yuan - Ming
Ruqun 襦裙 "Jacket and skirt" An upper garment covered by a separate skirt.

A common clothing for women.

Pre-Qin - Ming; Modern Dahuting Tomb mural of two women dressed in Hanfu, displaying domestic wares, Eastern Han Dynasty (cropped).jpg Jiao Bingzhen - Paintings of Ladies - Leaf 2.jpg
燕妃墓持扇女侍圖.JPG Tonfigur Tänzerin Liebieghaus 885.jpg 唐三彩釉陶梳妆女坐俑2.jpg
Aoqun/

Shanqun

袄裙/

衫裙

A short coat with a long skirt underneath. A common clothing for women. Han - Ming; Modern 前秦紫缬襦绯碧裙.jpg
婦人像2 without white border.jpg 孔府藏襖裙.jpg Ming girl.jpg
Aoqun 1.jpg Jili2.jpg
Zhiduo 直裰 Straight robe. Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves.

A common attire for men.[5][6]

Tang - Ming Zhiduo4.jpg Zhiduo3.jpg 人物像6.jpg
Modern Zhiduo 1.jpg
Daopao 道袍 Taoist robe. Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars. Song - Ming; Modern Daofu2.jpg Daopao4.jpg Daopao3.jpg
Hanfu daopao.jpg Daopao (Ming dynasty style).jpg
Shuitianyi Ming-Qing 清 緞地彩繡水田衣-Theatrical robe for a female Daoist priest MET 30 76 8 F.jpeg
Baijiayi Liu Song - Modern Childrenhanfu2.jpeg Childrenhanfu1.jpg

Semi-formal wear[]

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

  • Chang (裳): a pleated skirt
  • Bixi (蔽膝): a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs.
  • Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
List of semi-formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Banbi 半臂 A half-sleeved waistcoat. Tang - Ming Tang Woman wearing banbi.jpg Ming lady weargin banbi + aoqun.jpg Ming lady wearing banbi.jpg Banbi 1.jpeg
Bijia 比甲 An open-sided vest. Ming 明式比甲.jpg
Beizi

or

Pifeng

褙子or

披风

Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves Song - Ming Beizi3.jpg Mingbeizi2 hanfu.jpg Mingbeizi hanfu.jpg

Formal wear[]

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).

The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan 元端),[7][8] which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

List of formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Xuanduan/

Yuanduan

玄端/

元端

Literally "dark solemn", a very formal dark robe.[7][9] Pre-Qin - Song Sui Yangdi Tang.jpg
Shenyi 深衣 A long full body garment. Song - Ming Shenyi5.jpeg Ming man wearing shenyi.jpg 人物肖像1.jpg Artifact hanfu11.jpg
Yuanlingshan/

Panlingpao

圓領衫/盤領袍 Closed round-collared robe. Mostly used for official occation. Sui - Ming Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty.jpg 大帽圓領袍像.jpg Male Buddhist Donor, Northern Sung Dynasty.jpg Artifact hanfu12.jpg
Lanshan 襴衫 Closed round-collared robe with black edges. Mostly used for academical dress; worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination. Tang - Ming 士人襴衫像.jpg Panling lanshan.jpg Panling lanshan2.jpeg Artifact hanfu8.jpg
Daxiushan 大袖衫 Large Sleeve Gown. Worn by royal women. Five dynasties - Tang Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped 1.jpg Court Ladies Wearing Flowered Headdresses - cropped 2.jpg Female Figure from Vaishravana Riding Across the Waters.jpg Xian2-10.jpg
Chang'ao 長襖 A long overcoat Ming Daao 1.jpg
Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi 杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣 A formal dress worn by Elite women. Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties Female figure dressed in Tsa-chü-ch'ui-shao clothing. Lacquer painting over wood, Northern Wei.jpg

Court dress[]

Government officials in Changfu during the Wanli era, Ming dynasty

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headwear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Court dress of emperors[]

Court dress of Emperors
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Longpao(龙袍) Jifu 吉服 The dragon robe for special occations. Shang – Ming Portrait assis de l'empereur Ming Yingzong.jpg Portrait assis de l'empereur Ming Xianzong.jpg Portrait assis de l'empereur Jiajing.jpg
Changfu 常服 The dragon robe for daily wear. Tang – Qing TangTaizong.jpg A Seated Portrait of Ming Emperor Taizu.jpg Portrait assis de l'empereur Ming Xuanzong.jpg
Mianfu 冕服 Attire worn by emperors and crown princes. Shang – Ming Wanli-Emperor.jpg Zhou Wu Tang.jpg Han Guangwu Di.jpg
Tongtianguanfu 通天冠服 Tongtian, literally means "direct links with heaven".[10] Ceremonial dress. Shang – Ming Song Xuanzu (1).jpg
Bianfu 弁服 Occasional court dress. Also worn by officials or the nobility. Shang – Ming Ming dynasty emperor wearing Pibian and Bianfu (皮弁服).jpg

Court dress of officials[]

Court dress of Officials: “官服”
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Chaofu 朝服 A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobility. Zhou – Ming Detail of《史褒善像》.png 五世追贈臨淮候像.jpg 倫文敘.jpg
Gongfu 公服 Formal court dress according to ranks.[11] Tang - Ming Dong Qi.jpg 陸昶公服像.jpg 趙魏公小像.jpg
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress. Song – Qing Officials3.jpg The Portrait of Koxinga.jpg Detail of 單國祚.png
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ming – Qing 江韶宗 cropped.png Cao guang.jpg Liu Daxia.jpg
Zhongjingfu 忠静服 Retired official's bufu with same colour long cloth belt.[12] Ming 忠靖冠服容像.jpg Portrait of Lu Wending (1509 - 1605), 1591.png Portrait of Lu Wending (1509 - 1605), 1591 (2).png
Cifu 賜服 Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour. Ming – Qing 六十一代衍聖公孔弘緒.jpg 李化龍.jpg 高拱.jpg
Mangfu 蟒服 Also known as the "four-clawed dragon" robe or "python robe". It is a type of Cifu. 王鏊.jpg 鎮朔將軍唐公像軸.jpg
Feiyufu 飞鱼服 Also known as "flying fish" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Man wearing a Feiyufu.jpg
Douniufu 斗牛服 Also known as "fighting bull" robe. It is a type of Cifu.

Court dress for women[]

Court dress of Woman
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Huidi-yi 褘翟衣 Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses. Zhou – Ming ImperatriceSongQinzong.jpg Seated Portrait of Ningzong's Empress.jpg Sitting Portrait of Song Dynasty Empress Xiang.jpg
Dashanxiapei 大衫霞帔 The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf. Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu. Song- Ming Princess of Caoguo 2.jpg Detail of Impératrice Du.jpg 晚明 命婦像.jpg
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress of mìngfu. Ming Noblewoman4.jpg Artifact hanfu6.jpg
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ceremonial court dress of mìngfu. Ming 肖像 波士頓博物館藏.jpg Mingshichangao.jpg cropped.png 人物像4.jpg

Women's skirts[]

Types of Women's skirts
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Chang/ Shang A narrow, ankle-length skirt.[13] Shang - Zhou
Liuxianqun 留仙裙 "Fairy skirt".[14] Han
Jianqun or Jiansequn 间裙 or 间色裙 Stripped skirts.[15] It was a high waisted skirts which integrated both the techniques of the Han dynasty and foreign techniques from the Western Region.[16] In the Sixteen kingdoms, the skirt had panels of different colours; which could vary to: 6, 8, 12 regions.[16] From the Northern dynasty to the Tang dynasty, the skirt had denser multiple stripes.[16] In Tang, the stripped skirt was A-line.[17] Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties - Tang dynasty Yanju's tomb, picking at orchard.jpg Yanju's tomb, lute player.jpg 前秦紫缬襦绯碧裙.jpg
A Group of T'ang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou (李壽).jpg Fresco of a Young Girl, early T'ang dynasty.jpg Fresco of a T'ang Dynasty Musician.gif
Bainiaoqun 百鸟裙 "Hundred bird-feather skirt".[18] A feather skirt worn by a princess in Mid-Tang; the skirt was made with the feathers from a hundred birds.[19] Tang
Shiliuqun 石榴裙 "Pomegranate skirt" A red skirt which was very popular.[19] Tang 韋貴妃墓女侍圖3.jpg 李震墓提壺托盤女侍圖.jpg Fresco from the Tomb of Madam Ch'i-pi 1.jpg
Yujinqun 郁金裙 "Turmeric skirt" A yellow skirt which was dyed with turmeric.[19] Tang
Liangpianqun 两片裙 An unpleated skirt which is composed of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The middle part of the skirt overlap and are not sewn together.[20] Song
Baidiequn 百迭裙 A one-piece pleated skirt; the top is narrow and the bottom is wide.[20] Song
Sanjianqun 三裥裙 A skirt made of 4 skirts pieces sewn together.[20] Song
Zhejianqun 褶裥裙 "Folded skirt" Song Gauze Skirt, Southern Song (33521296162).jpg
Mamianqun 马面裙 "Horse-face skirt".[21] A skirt made of two-pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The sides of the skirt has knife pleats whereas the back and front have flat panels.[22] Ming-Qing 孔府藏妝花織金藍緞裙.jpg 孔府藏襖裙.jpg
Skirt (AM 1944.51-1).jpg Skirt (AM 1944.51-12).jpg
Baijianqun 百襇裙 "Hundred pleated skirt".[21] Qing
Yuehuaqun 月華裙 "Moonlight skirt".[21] Made of ten pieces of fabric which was then tucked in 10 pleats; each pleats had a different colour which was light. It was a popular skirt in the early Qing dynasty.[19] Qing Skirt, woman's (AM 11750-1).jpg Woman's apron, China, late 19th to early 20th century, silk, cotton, fur, golden thread, satin - Textile Museum of Canada - DSC00822.JPG
Yulinqun 鱼鳞裙 Lit. "fish-scale" skirt. A skirt where pleats were joined with silk threads in order to makes creases which look like the scales of a fish.[19] The pleats were very tiny.[21] Qing Skirt, bridal, woman's (AM 1966.181-6).jpg
"Rainbow skirt".[23] Qing China, late 19th century - Rainbow Skirt - 1916.1353 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif
Langanqun 襕干裙 "Chinese ink painting skirt". A skirt where scattered flowers pattern were printed.[19] Qing Skirt (AM 968-1).jpg MET 30 75 35 F.jpg
Fengweiqun 凤尾裙 Lit. "Phoenix-tail skirt". An underskirt which is decorated with long ribbons of different colours of silk, the ribbons were narrow. Different embroidery is found on in each ribbon strips. It was popular during the reign of Kangxi and Qianlong.[19] Qing
Baizhequn 百摺裙 An all-around small pleated skirt.[24] Qing - Republic

Religious clothing[]

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' (絳袍) which is made of a large square-shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals.[25] They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol.

Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.[26]

Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Types of Religious Clothing
Name Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Fusha

or

Haiqing

彿裟

or

海青

"sea-blue".[27] Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes. It is also worn by Zhenyi priests in Taiwan; it is blue in colour.[27]

Fayi (法衣); "ritual clothing"[28]

Jiangyi or Jiangpao 絳衣 or

絳袍

"Robe of descent",[29] or "scarlet robe".[25][30] A square-shaped poncho-like upper outer garment; the square symbolizes the earth which is perceived as square in Chinese cosmology.[31][30][32] It has motifs such as the sun, moon, Three heavens, stars and constellations, Sacred (golden) tower and flying cranes, Wu yue, Mountain peaks and cosmic waters.[31]It is worn by high ranking taoist priests, e.g. Grandmasters.[31] It is a formal outfit worn during Taoist ceremonies.[33] Ming- Present 邵元節.jpg Daoist Priest's Robe (China), 19th century (CH 18464275-2).jpg Daoist Priest's Robe (China), 19th century (CH 18464275).jpg
MET DP251137.jpg MET DT4777.jpg
Huayi 花衣 "Flowery robe" It is a ritual robe, worn under the jiangyi.[32] It is well decorated with motif, such as dragons, clouds, mountains, cranes and the seven stars Dipper.[28] It is worn by seniors and high ranking taoist priests.[28] Unknown- Present
Banyi 班衣 "Colourful robe" It is a ritual robe; it can have embroidered borders but the clothing is typically monochrome, mostly red in colour. It is worn for during daily recitations of scriptures in a worship hall before divinities.[28] Unknown - Present Dao-Priester Liu De Ming.jpg
Daopao 道袍 "Taoist robe"

or

"Robe of the Dao"

It is worn by middle-rank Taoist priests.[34] It is red in colour and is covered with decorations, such as bagua and cranes.[27] Unknown - Present WangChangyue.jpg Taopriest.jpg 西塞2017·神舟前的道士.jpg
Daoyi 道衣 A wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown worn by Taoist priests and nuns; it is a standard type of clothing.[35] Unknown- Present
De luo 得罗 An indigo formal ritual clothing, worn by Taoism priests in the Quanzhen order; the blue colour is a symbolism for the East.[27] It is cross-collared.[32] Unknown - Present
Da gua 大褂 "Great gown"[27] It is a common type of informal, daily clothing worn by Taoists; in present days, it is mostly narrow-sleeved and blue in colour.[32] Unknown - Present
Jieyi 戒衣 "Precept robes"[28] or "ordination robes" It is a large sleeved, monochrome yellow-coloured, cross-collar robe with black trims.[28][32][36] Unknown- Present

Handwear[]

Gloves and mitts[]

See also[]

References[]

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  12. ^ "67". History of Ming. 忠静服仿古玄端服,色用深青,以纻丝纱罗为之。三品以上云,四品以下素,缘以蓝青,前后饰本等花样补子。深衣用玉色。素带,如古大夫之带制,青表绿缘边并里。素履,青绿绦结。白袜。
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