Fengguan

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Phoenix crown worn by Empress Dowager Xiaochun of the Ming Dynasty

Fengguan (Chinese: 鳳冠; pinyin: fèngguān), also known as phoenix coronet or phoenix hat,[1][2] is a traditional type of Chinese headgear for women. It was worn mainly by noblewomen for ceremonies or official occasions. It is also traditional headgear for brides.

Fengguan means "phoenix crown", a name that originates from its adornments: phoenixes made of inlaid kingfisher feathers, as well as gold dragons, beaded pheasants, pearls, and other gemstones. One of the earliest phoenix crowns that has been excavated belonged to Empress Xiao of the Sui dynasty.[3] The type became most popular during the Ming Dynasty, with many changes made over time.

History[]

The crown of Empress Xiao (Sui dynasty).
The reverse replica of The crown of Empress Xiao.

Fengguan evolved from Fengchai (Chinese: 鳳釵; pinyin: fèngchāi), the phoenix hairpin, the Chinese hairpin worn by empresses and emperor's concubines. The phoenix hairpin wearing was issued by Emperor Qin Shihuang (259BC-210BC).[4] It was in Eastern Jin (317–420 AD) that the word fengguan first came up; however, it was referring to the hairpin imitating the comb of Chinese phoenix.[5]

The earliest fengguan discovered was the crown of Empress Xiao (Sui dynasty), unearthed from the Emperor Yang of Sui's tomb in 2013. The crown was made under the order of Emperor Taizong of Tang after the empress's death.[6] The artifact was protect-repaired and studied in Shaanxi Provincial Cultural Heritage Administration; later, a replica was made based on the studies.[7]

Design[]

Kingfisher feathers were extremely rare during the Ming Dynasty and were potentially sourced from Cambodia.[8] The numbers of phoenixes, dragons and precious gems on each crown is different. For example, the phoenix crown of Ming Empress Xiaoduanxian has 6 dragons, 3 phoenixes, 5,449 pearls, 71 rubies, and 57 sapphires.[9] Other phoenix crowns of empresses excavated from the Ming tombs have 9 phoenixes, between 12 and 9 dragons, more than 3,500 pearls, and more than 150 gemstones.[9] The pearls, gemstones and kingfisher feathers were made into ornamental flowers, leaves, clouds, and temple ornaments (Chinese: 兩博鬢; pinyin: liǎngbóbìn; the 'wings' at the sides and back of the crown). The weight of the entire crown can range from 2–3 kilograms (4.4–6.6 lb).[10]

Styles[]

There are different varieties of phoenix crown. The number of dragons, phoenixes and pheasants, in addition to the presence of certain ornaments was dictated by rank.[11]

Empresses[]

Decorated with 12-dragons-9-phoenixes crown (十二龍九鳳冠), 9-dragons-9-phoenixes crown (九龍九鳳冠), 9-dragons-4-phoenixes crown (九龍四鳳冠),[11] 6-dragons-3-phoenixes crown (六龍三鳳冠), and the 3-dragons-2-phoenixes crown (三龍二鳳冠). Only the crowns of empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) can have temple ornaments adorned, with the empress's crown having 6 blades of temple ornaments (3 on each side).

Imperial concubines and princesses[]

9-pheasants crown (九翟冠), 7-pheasants crown (七翟冠) and 5-pheasants crown (五翟冠), adorned with beaded pheasants and gold phoenixes, are worn by royal concubines and princesses (includes wives of princes), with the number of pheasants representing the wearer's royal rank.[11] The crown princess can only have 4 blades of temple ornaments (2 on each side)

Noblewomen[]

All other noblewomen/wives and daughters of officials wear the pearl-and-emerald crown (珍珠翡翠冠), where the crown is just adorned with pearls and gemstones (in various ornamental shapes).[11][12] Phoenix crowns worn with diyi have no strings of pearls by the sides of the head. Noblewomen cannot have temple ornaments on their headdresses.

Wedding[]

Coloured hats worn by commoner women on their wedding ceremony during the Ming and Qing dynasty was also called fengguan.[1] The practice is believed to have started during Southern Song when the Emperor rewarded a girl for saving his life.[2] Women wearing the fengguan as part of their set of wedding clothing has been a long tradition in the area of Zhejiang.[13] The fengguan was a symbol of good fortune.[2] However, women who were remarrying for a second times and who were to be become a man's concubine were not allowed to wear the fengguan.[2]

Gallery[]

  • Tang Dynasty phoenix crown worn by Empress Consort Wu

  • Ming Dynasty phoenix crown worn with diyi

  • Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with strings of pearls

  • Ming Dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 9 pheasants and traditional Ming dress

  • Ming Dynasty noblewoman wearing a crown with 5 pheasants and traditional Ming dress

  • View of the reverse of a Ming Dynasty empress' phoenix crown with 3 dragons and 3 phoenixes.

  • Bride wearing a phoenix crown for a wedding

  • Diyi worn with phoenix crown

  • Dashan (大衫) worn with phoenix crown (side view)

  • Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes.

  • Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 9 dragons and 9 phoenixes.

  • Fengguan in Qing Dynasty．

  • The empress of the Ming Dynasty,wearing a crown and wore traditional Ming costume.

  • The empress of the Ming Dynasty,wearing a crown and wore traditional Ming costume.

  • Three dragons and two phoenix crowns in Ming Dynasty．

  • Ming Dynasty phoenix crown with 6 dragons and 3 phoenixes belonging to Empress Xiaoduanxian

  • Fengguan of empresses in Song Dynasty

  • Fengguan of empresses in Song Dynasty

References[]

Notes[]

  1. ^ Jump up to: a b Yang, Shaorong (2004). Traditional Chinese clothing : costumes, adornments & culture (1st ed.). San Francisco: Long River Press. p. 9. ISBN 1-59265-019-8. OCLC 52775158.
  2. ^ Jump up to: a b c d Chinese auspicious culture. Evy Wong (English ed.). Singapore: Asiapac Books. 2012. p. 111. ISBN 978-981-229-642-9. OCLC 818922837.CS1 maint: others (link)
  3. ^ China Daily (2016).
  4. ^ Zhonghua gu jin zhu. 始皇又金银作凤头，以玳瑁为脚，号曰凤钗。
  5. ^ "9". Shi Yi Ji. 萦金为凤冠之钗...鋳金钗象凤皇之冠。
  6. ^ "198". Zizhi Tongjian. 庚子，隋萧后卒。诏复其位号，谥曰愍；使三品护葬，备卤簿仪卫，送至江都，与炀帝合葬。
  7. ^ "隋炀帝墓萧后冠亮相扬州博物馆".
  8. ^ Song (2015), p. 82.
  9. ^ Jump up to: a b Liu (2009).
  10. ^ Ming Tombs (2015).
  11. ^ Jump up to: a b c d zhaoxiaoyan (2015).
  12. ^ Jlsdaj.gov.cn (2009).
  13. ^ Juan, Hunjia (2016). Marriage. Time AACP. ISBN 1-921816-97-X. OCLC 967096753.

Cited works[]

See also[]

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