Diyi

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Huidi-yi (Chinese: 褘翟衣; Korean: 적의; Hanja: 翟衣) is the historical Chinese attire worn by empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) in the Ming Dynasty. It is a formal wear meant only for ceremonial purposes. It is a form of shenyi (Chinese: 深衣), and is embroidered with long-tail pheasants (Chinese: 翟; pinyin: Dí ) and circular flowers (Chinese: 小輪花; pinyin: Xiǎolúnhuā). It is worn with phoenix crown (without the dangling string of pearls by the sides).

Diyi has been worn by empresses and other royal noblewomen (differs according to different dynasties) since the Zhou dynasty.^[1] Since the Zhou dynasty, the diyi continued to be worn in the Northern and Southern, Sui, Tang, Song, Ming dynasties^[2] under various names huiyi (simplified Chinese: 袆衣; traditional Chinese: 褘衣) in Zhou and Song Dynasty,^[3] and miaofu (Chinese: 庙服) in Han Dynasty.^[1]

Cultural significance and symbolism[]

The huiyi follows the traditional Confucian standard system for dressing, which is embodied in its form (i.e. the shenyi system; the shenyi is itself the most orthodox style of clothing in traditional Chinese Confucianism), its usage of the concept of five colours, and the use of Di bird pattern.^[3]

The Di bird pattern forms part of the twelve ornaments and is referred as huachong (simplified Chinese: 华虫; traditional Chinese: 華蟲).^[3] The Di bird pattern is symbolism for brilliance; and the bird itself is a type of divine birds of five colours which represents the Empress' virtue; and these five colours (i.e. blue, red, black, yellow, white) correspond to the five elements; thus, the usage of Di bird patterns aligns with the traditional colour concept in Confucianism.^[3]

The use of shenyi for women does not only represent its wearer's noble status but also represents the standard of being faithful to her spouse undo death.^[3] The shenyi was the most appropriate ceremonial clothing style of clothing for the Empress due to its symbolic meaning: i.e. it represented the harmony between Heaven, earth, and space.^[3] The shenyi consists of an upper garment and a lower garment which represents the concept of Heaven and Earth (Chinese: 两仪; pinyin: Liangyi); the upper garment is made of 4 panels of fabric representing the four seasons, and the lower garment is made of 12 panels of fabric which represents the time of the year.^[3] The wide cuff sleeves are round-shaped to symbolize the sky and the Confucian's scholars' deep knowledge and integration while the right-angled collar is square shaped to represents the earth warning Confucians that they should have integrity and kindness; together, the sleeves and the right-angled collar represents space as the circle and the square of the world.^[3] The back of the shenyi is composed of two fabrics which are vertically sewed together and the large waist belt represents the privileged classes and is a symbolism for uprightness and honesty; it also meant fairness held by those with power.^[3]

History[]

Zhou dynasty[]

The huiyi is an ancient system which was first recorded in the Zhou dynasty (c.  1046 BC – 256 BC).^[3] It was first recorded in the Rites of Zhou (Chinese: 周礼; pinyin: Zhouli).^[3][4] The huiyi in Zhou dynasty was worn by the Empress as ceremonial clothing to pay respect during the ancestral shrine sacrifice which was the most important sacrificial event in which they could participate in.^[3] Following the Zhou dynasty, the subsequent dynasties perceived the huiyi as the highest form of ceremonial clothing.^[3] According to the Zhou dynasty rites, there were two types of black and blue clothing; however, there is currently no proof that the huiyi in the Zhou dynasty was black in colour.^[3]

Sui and Tang dynasty[]

The huiyi in Sui and Tang dynasties was also blue in colour.^[3]

Song dynasty[]

In the Song dynasty, the huiyi was the highest form of ceremonial clothing worn by the Empress; it was worn on important ceremonial occasions such as wedding, coronations, when holding court, and during ancestral shrine sacrifices.^[3]

The early Song dynasty sanlitu (Chinese: 三礼图) shows illustration of the huiyi as being a form of shenyi (Chinese: 深衣), being deep blue and is decorated with di bird patterns.^[3]

In the Records of Chariots and Horses and Clothes written in the Yuan dynasty, the Song dynasty huiyi is described as being dark blue in colour and there are 12 lines of di birds which stand together in pair.^[3] There is a bixi (a knee covering) which hangs in the central region of the front skirt; the colour of bixi has the same colour as the bottom of the lower skirt.^[3] Di bird patterns can decorate the black, red collar edge in 3 lines.^[3] There is also a belt which is divided into a large belt made of silk (which is dark blue in with red lining with the upper surface part made of red brocade while the lower part made of green brocade) and narrow leather belt (which is cyan in colour decorated with white jade in pairs) is on top of the large silk belt.^[3] The socks are dark blue in colour; the shoes are also dark blue but decorated with gold ornaments.^[3]

The literature which describes the Song dynasty huiyi however does not always provide details (e.g. variations) which can be found in the Song dynasty court painting and some discrepancies can be found between the text and the paintings.^[3] From the several court portrait paintings of the Song dynasty, it is found that the huiyi was cross-collar closing to the right, with large and wide sleeves, and with cloud and dragons patterns ornamenting the collar, sleeves and placket, with a belt worn around the waist; and while all the huiyi were depicted as being deep blue in colour, they differed in shades of dark blue showing variation.^[3] Instead of being in three lines as described in the Yuan dynasty's records, in the Song paintings, the di bird pattern which decorates the belts is denser.

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  Empress of Shenzong

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  Empress Xiang

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  Empress of GuangZong

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  Empress of Qinzong

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  Empress of Zhenzong

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  Empress of Huizong

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  Empress of Ningzong.

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  Empress of Qinzong

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  Empress of Renzong

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  Empress of Gaozong.

Ming dynasty[]

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  Empress Xiaohe

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  Empress Xiaoke

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  Empress Xiaoding

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  Empress Xiaoduan

Qing dynasty[]

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  Illustration of a woman wearing huiyi (褘衣) from the Chinese encyclopedia Gujin Tushu Jicheng, between 1700 and 1725 AD.

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  Illustration of huiyi (褘衣) from the Chinese encyclopedia Gujin Tushu Jicheng, between 1700 and 1725 AD.

Modern Restoration[]

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  Side view of diyi

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  Rear view of diyi

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  Restoration of Ming dynasty empress diyi

Influences and derivatives[]

Japan[]

In Japan, the features of the Tang dynasty style huiyi was found in the formal attire of the Heian Japanese empresses.^[2]

Korea[]

Korean queens started to wear the jeokui (Korean: 적의; Hanja: 翟衣) in 1370 AD under the final years of Gongmin of Goryeo.^[5] In the Joseon dynasty, the official dress worn by queens was wearing the jeokui which was adopted from the Ming dynasty's diyi.^[5] An example of the jeokui worn in Joseon can be seen in the Cultural Heritage Administration website.

2 variations of the diyi had been developed in Korea during the Joseon Dynasty, & later in the Korean Empire. The developments were as follows:

• During the Joseon Dynasty, the diyi was known as "Chijeok-ui" (Korean: 치적의; Hanja: 雉翟衣) or jeokui, and is characterized as a predominant red outfit with a similarity to the wonsam.
• During the Korean Empire, the chijeok-ui was later changed into the (original) blue with red trim similar to its Chinese model.

Diyi were worn by:

• Princesses Consort on their marriage to the Crown Prince and on major ceremonies (Korean: 대례복; Hanja: 大禮服; RR: daeryebok).
• Queens Consort on their coronation ceremony and on major ceremonies (Korean: 대례복; Hanja: 大禮服; RR: daeryebok).
• The King's subsequent Queens Consort^[6] on their marriage to the King.
• It was also worn by the queens and princesses when they visited the Royal Ancestors Shrine and when they were receiving morning visits from their retainers.^[7]

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  Restoration of Korean queen's jeogui and daesu

Vietnam[]

According to the book, Weaving a realm published by the Vietnam Center, the diyi (Vietnamese: Địch Y; 翟衣) was known as Huy Địch (褘翟) in Vietnam and was recorded in the "Random Record of Great Changes".^[8] According to the Vietnam Center, the diyi might have historically been worn by the Vietnamese empress in Vietnam due to the existence of this sole record so far:^[9]

“…Follow Eastern Zhōu’s rites to honor the new Consort Dowager’s coronation, in order to display the utmost appreciation of her services and to perfect the great ceremony. As for Địch Y dress, the shining glories stay in the fine-grained texture, and this shall be continuously succeeded. The imperial cemetery and bureaucracy, could glow even in the most remote and darkest of places! (Vietnamese: … Vậy xét theo phép của nhà Thành Chu, tôn phong bà làm bực Thái phi, để tỏ công phù trì, để hợp lễ thương kính. Chao ôi, áo xiêm (Hán tự: Huy Địch) dâng tiến vinh quang chẳng cứ khi mất còn; nấm đất vun bồi, rực rỡ đến tận cõi minh mạc!)"

See also[]

• Hanfu
• List of Hanfu
• Shenyi

Notes and references[]