Panling Lanshan

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Panling Lanshan
Panling lanshan2
Panling lanshan worn by scholars' and students' formal wear
Chinese name
Chinese盤領襴衫
Alternative Chinese name
Chinese襴衫
Korean name
Hangul난삼
Hanja襴(幱/欄)衫

Lanshan (襴衫) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. The lanshan has been worn since the Tang Dynasty.[1][2] The panling lanshan (盤領襴衫) along with the futou (幞頭; black cap) was used as the Tang dynasty attire of scholars and officials.[3] The scholars' attire in the succeeding dynasties followed the style of the panling lanshan of the Tang dynasty.[3] It is also a formal attire worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination in Ming Dynasty.

Design and Construction[]

The lanshan is wide sleeved, has black edges, and has a round collar secured with a button. A crossed-collar undergarment must be worn beneath it. It may or may not have side slits (with side panels (暗擺) to conceal the undergarment).

  • Man wearing panling lanshan

  • Portrait of man wearing panling lanshan

  • Ming dynasty man wearing panling lanshan.

  • Feng Cong Wu (1556－1627 AD), politician of the Ming Dynasty.

  • Artifact of panling lanshan

  • Lanshan (襴衫), a vectorization of an illustration from the Chinese encyclopedia Gujin Tushu Jicheng 《古今圖書集成》.

Korean version[]

In Korea, the lanshan was called namsam (난삼/襴(幱/欄)衫).[4][5] The nansam was adopted from the ancient Chinese system and was worn as the official costume of students who had passed the civil service examination in Joseon by King Yeonjo.[6][5]

In Joseon, students also wore a similar robe called called aengsam (앵삼/鶯衫). The aengsam appears to be similar to the Chinese namsam but with a different colour.[4][5] The word aeng from aengsam is lit. translated as"nightingale" due to its yellow colour which is the same as the colour of the nightingale.[7] The aengsam was worn during the national government examination and governmental ceremonies as a type of formal clothing.[8][9][10] It appears that the aengsam started to be worn in the late Joseon period.[6][5]

See also[]

  • Yuanlingshan
  • Han Chinese clothing
  • List of Han Chinese clothing

References[]

  1. ^ 周锡保 (Oct 1986), 《中国古代服饰史》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (2nd ed.), 中国戏剧出版社, p. 179, retrieved May 17, 2009
  2. ^ 朱和平 (July 2001), 《中国服饰史稿》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (1st ed.), 中州古籍出版社, p. 222, retrieved May 20, 2009
  3. ^ a b Ka Shing, Charles (2014-01-01). "The Development of Academic Dress in China". Transactions of the Burgon Society. 14 (1): 60–68. doi:10.4148/2475-7799.1119. ISSN 2475-7799.
  4. ^ a b "난삼(襴(幱)衫) - 한국민족문화대백과사전". encykorea.aks.ac.kr. Retrieved 2021-05-09.
  5. ^ a b c d 李順子 (1978). "欄杉의 硏究". Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  6. ^ a b "A Study of Changes in Scholar's Costume During Chosun Dynasty - Centering on Sungkyunkwan Student's Uniform-". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 21 (3): 621–631. 1997. ISSN 1225-1151.
  7. ^ "Colletions Search - DKU 석주선기념박물관". museum.dankook.ac.kr. Retrieved 2021-05-09.
  8. ^ East Asian Collections in Scottish Museums (PDF). National Museums Scotland. 2020. p. 104.
  9. ^ "Official/Court clothing". www.lifeinkorea.com. Retrieved 2021-05-09.
  10. ^ "소장품 검색 - DKU 석주선기념박물관". museum.dankook.ac.kr (in Korean). Retrieved 2021-05-09.
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