Algerian Kaftan

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The presence of the caftan in Algeria dates far back to the Rustamid[1] and the Zirid period in the 10th century, the Zirid Emir would receive a caftan among other gifts from the Fatimid Caliph.[2] Prior to the Zirid period, during the Rustamid period the great value, good reputation and significant influence of the Algerian city Tahert which was an important commercial centre attributed it the nickname “Iraq of the Maghreb” as reported by El Yakubi in the 9th century.[3][4]

Painting of a woman in Annaba wearing the traditional caftan of Annaba with its own distinctive embroidery

The Algerian caftans differ in style and have their own unique motifs, for example in the gallery below the first picture of a caftan although described as “probably being made in Morocco” consists of distinctive motifs on the plastron and an embroidery technique clearly aligning it with the Algerian style.[5] Furthermore this caftan exhibits the most characteristic features of a typical Algerian caftan consisting of gold thread embroidery, decorative passementerie buttons and the triangular evil eye motif all of which are consistent with the caftans from the Bardo National Museum of Algiers.[5] It is also important to note that these caftans feature the distinctive evil eye motif and the looping decorative patterns present in the embroidery on the Algerian Ghlila which the female Algerian caftan is said to have descended from.[5][6] This embroidery was a symbol of wealth and status in the 17th century.[5]

  • Caftan featuring distinctive Algerian motifs that are also present on the Ghlila which the female caftan of Algeria is said to descend from[5][6]

  • Caftan from the National Museum of Bardo in Algiers exhibiting the distinctive Algerian motifs

  • Caftan exhibiting the distinctive Algerian motifs

  • Caftan exhibiting the distinctive Algerian motifs

  • Caftan exhibiting the distinctive Algerian motifs

  • Algerian caftan featuring silver embroidery

In the 16th century Diego de Haëdo described the Algerian caftan as ridiculous due to the elaborate metal thread ornaments rendering the garment expensive.[5] In 1789, the diplomat Venture de Paradis presented an observation of the women of Algiers:

When they go to a party, they put three or four ankle length golden kaftans on top of one another, which, with their other adjustments and gilding, may weigh more than fifty to sixty pounds. These kaftans in velvet, satin or other silks are embroidered in gold or silver thread on the shoulders and on the front, and they have up to the waistband big buttons in gold or silver thread on both sides; they are closed in front by two buttons only.

— Venture de Paradis, [6]

Since then several types of caftans have been developed, while still respecting the original pattern. Nowadays, the Algerian female Kaftans, including the modernised versions, are seen as an essential garment in the bride's trousseau in cities such as Algiers, Annaba, Bejaia, Blida, Constantine, Miliana, Nedroma and Tlemcen.[7]

Algerian woman wearing a caftan
Algerian Caftan

As a result of the French invasion of Algeria many Algerians immigrated to Tetouan and other Moroccan cities where they owned many shops, the shiny costumes worn by the Algerians differed to the simple costumes of the Moroccans.[8] Through the European eye the Moroccan costume was picturesque but simple and differed from the Algerian dress which was rich and sumptuous.[9][10]

Son of the Caïd of Biskra wearing a male Algerian Caftan
Algerian woman wearing a Caftan and an Algerian Sarma

See also[]

• Chedda of Tlemcen
• Kaftan
• Ghlila
• Djebba Fergani

References[]

  1. ^ Histoire et archéologie de l'Afrique du Nord: actes du IIIe colloque international réuni dans le cadre du 110e Congrès national des sociétes savantes, Montpellier, 1-15 avril 1985. France. Comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques Ministère de l'éducation nationale, Comité des travaux historiques et scientifiques.
  2. ^ Les Berbers dans l'histoire: De Ziri à Hammad Mouloud Gaïd Editions Mimouni,
  3. ^ Kharijite Political Influences in Medieval Berbery William J. T. Brown University of Wisconsin
  4. ^ Africana Bulletin, Issues 24-25 Wyd. Uniwersytetu Warszawskiego
  5. ^ a b c d e f Snoap, Morgan, "Algerian Women's Waistcoats - The Ghlila and Frimla: Readjusting the Lens on the Early French Colonial Era in Algeria (1830-1870)" (2020). Honors Program Theses. 114.
  6. ^ a b c Isabelle Paresys (26 February 2008). Paraître et apparences en Europe occidentale du Moyen Âge à nos jours. Presses Univ. Septentrion. p. 236. ISBN 978-2-85939-996-2.
  7. ^ "Tradition vestimentaire : Le Kaftan est Algérien". elmoudjahid.com (in French).
  8. ^ Promenade au Maroc Charles Didier J. Labitte,
  9. ^ Promenade au Maroc Charles Didier J. Labitte,
  10. ^ Revue des deux mondes Au bureau de la Revue des deux mondes
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